Where is the ECU located?

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Violione

Sir Loin of Beef
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Well, I am fairly sure where the ECU is located however, I don't have my shop manual yet (its going to be a Christmas present from the wifey :yahoo: ) but, where is the ECU located? I think the the shoptards might be trying to pull a fast one on me! Awaiting a definitive reply from some who knows where it is located!

Thanks!

 
It's basically under the seat -

It's fastened to the underside of the tool tray - under the seat.

Ain't real difficult to get to . About 20 to 30 minutes round trip.

 
So what is this box just behind the tool pouch marked Mitsubishi? (I have a pict of it but I can't get it to post in this frame)

 
No, bought new the bike is now 13 months old.

I looking for the Barbarian MOD now on FJR Tech. \

No the pict is not on a web site.

 
Here it is removed on a Gen I. Probably pretty similar on a Gen II. I could remove it and replace it in less than 20 minutes by just lifting the seat, a Phillips, and probably one or two sockets.

MW302046b.JPG


I had my subframe off for another reason, but here's the view of the connector and reference of the position with the dust shadow and where the air intake is.

MW302055b.JPG


 
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OK, confirmed where the ECU is located by way of Warchild site - just where I though it was. The shoptard was trying to give me a line of bull today and I wasn't about to fall for it, but without a shop manual, I had some reasonable doubt. I was just reading on how the new ECU needs to be remapped by dealer for it could cause more issues in not done correctly, just can't swap those baby's out with out doing a proper CO test and setting the new ECU, even though it "self-learns". It still needs a correct base line.

Well I will be calling the stealership tomorrow and asking the tards if the ran the correct CO test on the new ECU, cause it is running erratic at low RPM's and its smelling kind of rich out the pipes.

Thanks for the help guy's! :clapping:

 
Ignacio,

Thanks for the pics of the ECU. Hey what is a good web sit to post my picks on so I can get them linked to the forum? I have a box.net account but can never get the picts to show. Google pages or maybe Kodak.com/

Violione

 
Ignacio,
Thanks for the pics of the ECU. Hey what is a good web sit to post my picks on so I can get them linked to the forum? I have a box.net account but can never get the picts to show. Google pages or maybe Kodak.com/

Violione
Lots of details (including a photo hosting site) located HERE.

 
OK, confirmed where the ECU is located by way of Warchild site - just where I though it was. The shoptard was trying to give me a line of bull today and I wasn't about to fall for it, but without a shop manual, I had some reasonable doubt. I was just reading on how the new ECU needs to be remapped by dealer for it could cause more issues in not done correctly, just can't swap those baby's out with out doing a proper CO test and setting the new ECU, even though it "self-learns". It still needs a correct base line.Well I will be calling the stealership tomorrow and asking the tards if the ran the correct CO test on the new ECU, cause it is running erratic at low RPM's and its smelling kind of rich out the pipes.

Thanks for the help guy's! :clapping:
Unless the barbarian jumper mod is done. the CO settings cannot be read at the shop.

I found this out after issues with my swap at the famous D&H. The service manual said to disconnect the fuel pump, which they did (I stood and watched the whole thing -4 times). It would still not read in the diag. mode. I have not done the barbarian jumper

 
Ignacio,
Thanks for the pics of the ECU. Hey what is a good web sit to post my picks on so I can get them linked to the forum? I have a box.net account but can never get the picts to show. Google pages or maybe Kodak.com/

Violione
I use photobucket.com

Steve

 
OK, confirmed where the ECU is located by way of Warchild site - just where I though it was. The shoptard was trying to give me a line of bull today and I wasn't about to fall for it, but without a shop manual, I had some reasonable doubt. I was just reading on how the new ECU needs to be remapped by dealer for it could cause more issues in not done correctly, just can't swap those baby's out with out doing a proper CO test and setting the new ECU, even though it "self-learns". It still needs a correct base line.Well I will be calling the stealership tomorrow and asking the tards if the ran the correct CO test on the new ECU, cause it is running erratic at low RPM's and its smelling kind of rich out the pipes.

Thanks for the help guy's! :clapping:

I think you may be off base a bit here. It is my understanding that when they install the ECU it is plug and play. People that have done the Barbarian Jumper have shown that almost every US ECU has the same default CO settings and that is what the new replacement ECUs are coming loaded with. If you look around on the forum I'm sure you'll find those.

Also, since US ECUs aren't supposed to have the barbarian jumpers in, the shop tards aren't supposed to be able to adjust them. Even if they did have the jumpers in the only way to adjust them to the bike would be to somehow monitor the CO on each individual cylinder while adjusting the settings. Since there are no screw-in ports in the stock headers for a CO meter that isn't possible.

I'm also fairly certain that the logic in the ECU is fairly simple. Beyond the normal closed loop lambda control, there isn't any "learning" that takes place that I'm aware of. Maybe Jestal or somebody with real knowledge on these things will chime in with the definitive poop.

 
Just had my ECU replaced today at Yamaha of Cucamonga, took about 30 minutes. Will have to ride to see if there are changes in performance or mpg. Hal, you know who did not do it!! At my request they even checked the CO2 values via the two mufflers with their machine. all is in specs.

 
[Just had my ECU replaced today at Yamaha of Cucamonga, took about 30 minutes. Will have to ride to see if there are changes in performance or mpg. Hal, you know who did not do it!! At my request they even checked the CO2 values via the two mufflers with their machine. all is in specs.
Well, I don't know exactly how to break this to you Dave, but if they shoved a probe up your twin exhaust and told you that "all is in spec" they were seriously pulling your chain. There's no way in hell they know what each individual cylinder's CO is when the ye measure it at the out put of a 4 into 1 into 2 exhaust system AFTER the Catalytic convertors!!!

 
Just to confirm - going by the diagrams posted in this thread, to actually remove and replace the ECU you have to pull the left side cover, the air filter cover, and the seat undertray. Am I reading correctly? I'm heading into to have this done on Saturday.

edit: re-reading Ignacios post, on a Gen I you can get to the ECU just by pulling the seat and unscrewing the undertray. Anyone with a Gen II that confirm the process is the same?

 
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