Which battery?

[YooperDick]

My understanding is the references to YT14-4B, or, CT14-4BS, or ??14-B??, are primarily intended to identify the outside dimensions of the battery. One needs to look at the technical specifications to determine the C.C.A. of the specific battery being marketed. Even then, this tells us little about the product we are purchasing. Clearly, the capacity to maintain voltage levels is an important feature, particularly when starting the engine under adverse conditions or when there is a short term demand for electrical power that exceeds the capacity of charging system, e.g., accessories. As a practical matter, it really doesn't matter if the battery is rated at 135 or 210 C.C.A. as long as it starts the bike. Would one purchase a battery rated at 1000 C.C.A. when it might only last a year?

Ultimately, however, our primary interest is in longevity/reliability. I would propose this is directly related to the engineering, materials, and manufacturing process employed. In a word, quality. We, the consumer, are generally shielded from this pertinent information and probably are not qualified to interpret such data anyway. We are usually tempted by the respective marketing departments with neat graphics or "new and improved" slogans, the latter of which usually means some cost has been taken out at the expense of quality. In other words, "more profitable". This is not to say we can't impact the life of the battery through proper care and maintenance.

In the final analysis, the general population (of which I am one) will apply the same science in the selection of a battery as they did when they picked a spouse; look them over the best you can, close your eyes, raise your head, and command your future to the Almighty.

 

[LAroo]

My 2005 is still on its original battery with no signs of dying. I wish I wish my cage battery was as reliable.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

Dont even get me started on those POS Odyssey batteries...2 batteries in less than 6 months on my Powrachute 2000, and still cant get hold of a non defect Odyssey. I give up on em! :angry2:

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

OK, dumb question. I haven't bought a battery from mail order before (usually a dealer pre-charged). I bought a Westco from Bike Effects and awaiting delivery. does it need charging or can I just drop it in?

My OEM battery has been abused with a total drain in 2007 and sitting without a tender in an unheated garage for 3 winters between rides. Figure it is time to replace it rather than take a chance. I'm going to install a datel voltmeter and start using a battery charger with this battery...

Thanks for an answer in advance to my question.

 

[SkooterG]

Just drop it in.***

***With the caveat that I read the following in a MCN article:

The biggest single harm that can be done to the life expectancy of a new battery usually occurs when it's sold. In the rush to get a new machine set up for sale or to get the customer out the door with his new replacement battery, many batteries are simply filled with electrolyte, installed and pressed into service within minutes of being unwrapped. Sound familiar? It's all wrong. What this procedure buys you is a battery that will never have more than 80% of its powerever! For this reason, many riders prefer to prep their new batteries themselves to make sure it's done correctly.
Here's the actual factory-recommended service procedure, and don't be too surprised if you've never heard it before.

First, unwrap the battery, unkink the vent tube and snip about a half-inch off the end, unless it's a maintenance-free type and doesn't have a vent tube. Next, fill it with electrolyte midway between the high and low level markings on the case. Next, let the battery sit for one or two hoursafter which the battery will still be at only 65% of full charge. Check the electrolyte level and add electrolyte if required. That's rightadd electrolyte. This is the only time in the life of your battery that you can ever add anything but water.

Nowsurpriseyou must still charge the battery. If it is a refillable lead-antimony type, it should be charged at one-third of its rated capacity in amp/hours for four to five hours to get it to full charge. Honda and Yuasa recommend that the maintenance-free type should be charged with a constant-current charger that can drive the charge with as much as 16.9 volts and closely monitored not to exceed full charge (another reason to buy a smart charger). Afterwards, recheck the level and add water if required. Finally, let the battery cool so the case contracts enough to fit into its typically tight little holder, run the new breather tube (if it has one) carefully through the original factory routing, being sure that it's well away from your chain and you're ready to go.

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

Damn! That was fast Skooter. Thanks.

Just drop it in.***

***With the caveat that I read the following in a MCN article:

The biggest single harm that can be done to the life expectancy of a new battery usually occurs when it's sold. In the rush to get a new machine set up for sale or to get the customer out the door with his new replacement battery, many batteries are simply filled with electrolyte, installed and pressed into service within minutes of being unwrapped. Sound familiar? It's all wrong. What this procedure buys you is a battery that will never have more than 80% of its powerever! For this reason, many riders prefer to prep their new batteries themselves to make sure it's done correctly.
Here's the actual factory-recommended service procedure, and don't be too surprised if you've never heard it before.

First, unwrap the battery, unkink the vent tube and snip about a half-inch off the end, unless it's a maintenance-free type and doesn't have a vent tube. Next, fill it with electrolyte midway between the high and low level markings on the case. Next, let the battery sit for one or two hoursafter which the battery will still be at only 65% of full charge. Check the electrolyte level and add electrolyte if required. That's rightadd electrolyte. This is the only time in the life of your battery that you can ever add anything but water.

Nowsurpriseyou must still charge the battery. If it is a refillable lead-antimony type, it should be charged at one-third of its rated capacity in amp/hours for four to five hours to get it to full charge. Honda and Yuasa recommend that the maintenance-free type should be charged with a constant-current charger that can drive the charge with as much as 16.9 volts and closely monitored not to exceed full charge (another reason to buy a smart charger). Afterwards, recheck the level and add water if required. Finally, let the battery cool so the case contracts enough to fit into its typically tight little holder, run the new breather tube (if it has one) carefully through the original factory routing, being sure that it's well away from your chain and you're ready to go.

 

[SkooterG]

Damn! That was fast Skooter. Thanks.

Funny. That's what all the girls say, too.

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

Damn! That was fast Skooter. Thanks.

Funny. That's what all the girls say, too.

hate to say it buddy, but they lied about part of that message... the "thanks" part. Don't ask how I know...

 

[Patriot]

OK, dumb question. I haven't bought a battery from mail order before (usually a dealer pre-charged). I bought a Westco from Bike Effects and awaiting delivery. does it need charging or can I just drop it in?
My OEM battery has been abused with a total drain in 2007 and sitting without a tender in an unheated garage for 3 winters between rides. Figure it is time to replace it rather than take a chance. I'm going to install a datel voltmeter and start using a battery charger with this battery...

Thanks for an answer in advance to my question.

I just received my Westco Fri ordered from them. Took 3 days from date of order. It's only 4 weeks old from manufacture. It's a pet peeve of mine to get a "new" battery which is 6 months or older sitting on the shelf. I always check the date of manufacture sticker on store bought batterys (my Westco sticker is L8 or Dec 2008 - letter is equal to month - L is the 12th letter of the alphabet). I've been impressed with their batterys, service, and fairness looking out for their customers.

I will put it on my Tender overnight even though right out of the box it showed a resting voltage of 12.5 volts.

Just my 1.5 cents and hope it helps,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Alot of the info contained in the MCN quote (above) doesn't apply to the original equipment (OEM) FJR battery. No electrolyte fill, no vent tube -- that info applies to batteries a generation (or 2?) in the past (a decade or so, at least).

The battery in my FJR was put in the bike before it was crated -- some 6 months before it was assembled (it was fully charged -- then and when it was used to first start the bike). IOW, it needed nothing. Add too, the bike sat in the dealers back lot in its crate under a snow drift at sub-freezing temps for a couple months. When it was finally brought-in to the dealer's back room for un-crating and assembly the battery (in the bike but un-connected) was hot (12.8v) and ready to use -- nothing was done. The bike's never spun faster nor started quicker than that first start.

All this is to say: forget alot of that old, years-ago, battery stuff -- these new, factory-fill, maintenance-free batteries are quite different than what went before.

They also may need newer style chargers (if you ever need to charge it -- left the key on, etc.?) than what was used in years past -- for best results?

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

Good experiences and advice all. I think I'll check volktage when it comes in and if close to 13 I'll drop it in and go for a ride. Thanks for the tip on way of checking date of manufacture.

EDIT: Just read Skooter's response (#51) and rethought just plopping it in. I think I'll put it on the battery tender overnight like Patriot mentioned. Won't hurt.

 

[SkooterG]

Alot of the info contained in the MCN quote (above) doesn't apply to the original equipment (OEM) FJR battery. No electrolyte fill, no vent tube -- that info applies to batteries a generation (or 2?) in the past (a decade or so, at least).The battery in my FJR was put in the bike before it was crated -- some 6 months before it was assembled (it was fully charged -- then and when it was used to first start the bike). IOW, it needed nothing. Add too, the bike sat in the dealers back lot in its crate under a snow drift at sub-freezing temps for a couple months. When it was finally brought-in to the dealer's back room for un-crating and assembly the battery (in the bike but un-connected) was hot (12.8v) and ready to use -- nothing was done. The bike's never spun faster nor started quicker than that first start.

All this is to say: forget alot of that old, years-ago, battery stuff -- these new, factory-fill, maintenance-free batteries are quite different than what went before.

They also may need newer style chargers (if you ever need to charge it -- left the key on, etc.?) than what was used in years past -- for best results?

Agreed. Sort of. :blink:

I don't know how old that article is, and for sure, we don't have the option of filling, or adding electrolyte, but, the last paragraph does address maintenace-free batterys which we use in our FJR. And having a modern charger is important (as the article mentions).

And lastly, the 12.5v that Patriot is getting on his just-out-of-the-box WestCo is not fully charged, correct? So I would think charging overnight on a modern charger at a lower voltage or current (than the bike's charging system) would not be a bad thing.

Oh yeah, I can't count the number of times I have seen them go to start a bike at a dealership and the battery is dead. Obviously a plethora of possible reasons for that.