Which Cruise Control?

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My $0.02 - for the money, I couldn't justify the MCCruise (and at the time, they only offered a vacuum unit which I don't like). The parts in the MCCruise kit are off the shelf auto cruise units with the exception of a couple of bike specific parts and connectors.

I installed the Rostra electronic unit and it was very straightforward. I did have to shorten the entire wiring harness but that was pretty easy. There are so many step by step instructions on the web that anyone with basic mechanical aptitude could do it. It took me about 12 hours and if I were doing it again, it would probably take <8 hrs.

 
Like Sir Carver, I also had a CCS100 unit installed by Sir Smitty. Enjoyed it for many years with nary a hitch (after I installed an appropriate check valve between the vacuum source and the reservoir).

The McCruise offering used to be a CCS100 customized to the FJR in both throttle linkage and its pneumatic controller. But if you're buying a new unit from them, their website only shows an all electronic offering for FJR1300 2006 through 2012.

https://www.mccruise.com/collections/yamaha/products/yamaha-fjr1300-2006-to-2013-electric-servo?variant=30029537988

Good luck!

 
Larry,

The information we long time have given you is, just like us long time members, a bit out dated.

The latest offering from MCCruise is a fully electronic kit, including a user upgradable computer module via Bluetooth to your smart phone, and also their electronic servo actuator. Gone is the vacuum actuator which requires plumbing to your throttle bodies. Its a solid kit, which has me seriously contemplating upgrading my my ancient MCCruise system.

I took a caulking cartridge, which is roughly the same diameter and length as their electronic servo, and placed it up under the left muffler stay where they will have you install it. It will clear my General Tire G-Max darkside tire.

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there will be no clearance issues there, unless you have a remote reservoir from your rear shock occupying this location. That may be a problem.

The other good thing, if you buy this month, not only will you benefit from the strong dollar, but the kit is on sale.

Good luck with your choice, your right hand will thank you on the long trips.

Brodie

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Well,,,,there goes the old piggy bank. $841.00 delivered to Cleveland Oh .Oh buy the way ,if anyone wants to stop over and lend a hand with the installation, I'll be happy to take care of lunch ! I'd would like to say, Thank You , for all who gave opinions, comments ,and feedback . Got to go now .Have to make a whole **** load of new sandwiches .

 
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Larry,
I would say spend the coin to get the MotorCycle Cruise system. You have the skills already to install it yourself, based on what youve shared with us here in this thread. Its an excellent system which is bulletproof when done paying strict attention to instructions. It took me a full day for my initial install, it is rather involved, but not that hard.

When I bought my unit back in 2007 for my 06 Advanced Edition, I was still a bit intimidated by all that bodywork on my $15,999.98 wonderbike, I was hesitant to disturb any of it. Their excellent installation manual, loaded with photographs, took me by the hand and showed me every single fastener and body panel to remove for proper access. About the only thing it didnt show was the charcoal canister that my California emissions compliant possessed. Thats all I needed to break my cherry regarding servicing my full bodywork FJR.

One thing I will recommend, if you buy the system, it typically has the actuator mounted under the seat, however, the AE bikes have an electronic Black Box in that location, which forced them to find another spot. They chose to mount it under the right lower fairing just ahead of the frame and behind the radiator. The control pad was also relocated to the right hand grip because of the lack of a clutch reservoir on the left handlebar. I think it is a superior location. Tell them you want the AE setup, only with the non AE harness because your bike has a clutch handle; they omitted the pair of wires to a nonexistent clutch handle on that bike. Other than those two details, the system is the same for both the AE and non AE bike. And by the way, the 07 and 06 bikes are identical , you wont find any issues there.

Ive also installed the AudioVox system on a friends 08 standard FJR, and I wasnt nearly as impressed by it, having to have to be creative with setting up the beaded chain throttle linkage. I much prefer the fully engineered cable interface, and the extra safeguards the electronics provide in the MC Cruise installation. It is a system designed expressly for motorcycles, not an adaptation of a generic automotive unit - much safer in my opinion.

You wont be disappointed with the system once in place. It will be money well invested.

Just sell more sandwiches.

Brodie
I can second the MC Cruise system. I have it on my '06 with a clutch. I mounted the actuator under the right fairing too because I wanted to keep the space under the seat clear. The directions are very good, but it will take you all day to do.

I did have to email them for a question, it was with regard to system testing. I had reversed the polarity on the wheel sensor. Simple to diagnose and fix. System has been on my bike for 10 years and worth every penny. I do have a throttle lock also, but only use that for when I need a second to release the right grip.

Yes I would buy it again. Also, it is not limited on the top speed setting like some of the first bikes Yamaha released that could not go above 75.

 
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This is a well timed thread!! The past couple weeks I have been looking at the AudioVox and McCruise, very similar situation as Larry on many points. I was leaning toward the AudioVox but after reading this I'm rethinking this yet again. Congrats Larry on making a decision and moving forward, sometimes that's the hardest part. I would really like to hear how your install goes and how you like it.

This reminds me when I was looking for a new seat, I knew what I wanted but the price!! What I ended up doing was turning my head, opened the wallet and put the cash down on an RDL; one of the best upgrades I have done.

 
Yeaaa.... All ready nervous about,lubricating throttle cable to "exactly as we specify" ... They are sending me the instructions early so I could start study them. I got to say, stellar communications so far. Check this out, I asked about mounting the actuator under the fairing and this what I got back:

"That solution was really only suitable for the old vacuum actuator, as it was very light. There is nothing substantial to bolt the electronic servo too, and it is too heavy to mount in this location. It is also in close proximity to the headers. This could compromise reliability over the long term. The vacuum actuator has covers to protect it from the heat, but it is also a very simple device and not prone to heat damage. The new electric servo works more accurately than the old vacuum unit, but the trade off is that it is too delicate and needs to be protected from the heat.

We have not had the opportunity to mount the electric servo in this location (no bike available). But would be reluctant to do so anyway.

The servo can be mounted behind the left passenger foot rest. We have lots of photos to look at and more details on the website."

This from Frank who seems to be one of the main contacts down there .I know this thing is about a 1/4 of what my 2007 its worth .BUT in my world ,the FJR is worth the investment . Still looks cool, Bulletproof , It's paid for . Getting better and better the more money I spend on it.
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And in the real world, I think

the cruise control is something I'll use just about every time I ride .

 
Unless someone is mechanically inclined, the McCruise sounds likes the way to go because all the design work is done and there's extensive instructions. I'm an aircraft mechanic and have spent a lifetime working on and modifying all sorts of mechanical/electrical things, so installing the vacume Audiovox on my 07 wasn't a big deal. It still took a lot of time due to having to source and build parts and then doing the actual install.

The cruise has had some failures over the years that required troubleshooting to figure out why it no longer worked. After the first failure, I found a slight voltage on the brake circuit and had to install a relay to ensure the brake input to the AVCC was 0 volts until the brakes were applied. Then it stopped working again years later and this time I'm not sure what fixed it because I did a couple things to it - opened up the servo and lightly lubed seals and actuated parts and also changed the switch position of one of the setting switches. Been working fine again. If you're paying a shop to fix it, the costs would run up quickly but my labor is free. ;)

 
That is a BIG reason why I went McCruise . Not so good with modifying,troubleshooting building or making mechanical or electrical parts, I have completely rebuilt,repaired and remolded a century home here in Cleveland , so I'am not a total loser ,just not that good with car and bike stuff . So,if and when there is trouble, at least I would have someone to call . I do respect,and envious of men like you, and others that have the skill to build,maintain,and repair stuff .It is truly becoming a lost vocation. Thanks Larry..

 
Cruise control is a wonderful tool to help reduce driver fatigue. But it's apparently morphed in the past several years...

The cager I bought new 20 years before refused to die, which had been my usual incentive to get another car, and I was beginning to wonder which of us would go out first. So I settled the matter and got a new one, instantly finding myself the beneficiary of a couple of decades of innovation. Wow. Adaptive cruise control: a shared authority, full range throttle and braking system that monitors the traffic ahead of you and adjusts your speed accordingly. Useful in stop and go traffic as well as gliding down the open road. All you have to do is keep yourself in the loop to monitor things. The car takes care of the throttle and brake.

The motorcycle tie-in? Well for several reasons it was the first time I'd been on the bike for many weeks. Set the cruise control on a local two lane road, and relaxed in monitoring mode. Then as I was approaching some traffic ahead of me in my lane (double yellow), I thought, "Hey, wait a minute. Why isn't the bike slowing itself down?" Oh, yeah. Duh! Just plan old fashioned cruise control...
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OK ,,, got it done . McCruise is the "Mac Daddy" !!! Wow, cruise control is AWESOME ! Can't believe this hasn't been a stock item from day one . It has totally changed my riding experience. "Just set it and forget " Can actually pay attention to whats going around you,rather than constantly looking down to see how fat your speeding ticket is going to be .McCruise works ! Up & down hills with No variation in speed what so ever.Was going through a known speed trap,Set it at,3rd gear, 28mph, Perfect ! Smooth transition, when using the "ACC" or "DEC" buttons, no herky - jerky motions,just up or down,no drama .Can adjust with just one hand on the wheel .Looks factory, went with the under the grip look.Buttons all light up .( I guess for a thousand bucks it ought to .) Everyone with a Gen II bike should get one of these units.It will make you fall in love with your bike again,and stop you from thinking about a new one .

 
I've done two CCS-100 installations, one on a Concours C10, the other on our VW Vanagon. The CCS-100 works if... you add the vacuum reservoir. Without it, straight motor vacuum can drop to the point where the pneumatic actuator runs out of breath, if you will. The real deal reservoir, as opposed to a DIY, uses a check valve to keep the reservoir from emptying back into the plumbing. So... you need room for the actuator and the reservoir. Properly done, though, the thing works and works well. One big gotcha, resist the temptation to keep the beaded chain, between the throttle body and the actuator cable, close to taut!!! The motor warms up, the chain tugs on the throttle and vroom, vroom, vroom!!! A lot. DAMHIK

Leave some obvious slack in the chain. All will be well, and the CCS-100 will do its magic.

I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned the Rostra (AKA "Rasta") unit. It's electrical, not pneumatic. Its settings appear to be a bit more flexible. OK $260 V $180. User's choice. See both at murphskits.com

DISCLAIMER: Got no skin in the game, just a happy customer.

 
I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned the Rostra (AKA "Rasta") unit. It's electrical, not pneumatic. Its settings appear to be a bit more flexible. OK $260 V $180. User's choice. See both at murphskits.com
(lnewlf referenced the Rostra in Post #20.)

I had factory cruise on a Yamaha Venture (2002) a number of years ago. I very rarely used it. After that experience, I never bothered adding one to my 2007 FJR and I have put close to 200,000 miles on that bike. Definitely a few times it would have been nice to have but I never really felt I was missing anything. I'm replacing the '07 with a 2011 this year and I am reconsidering the whole CC thing. If I find that I want more than the throttle lock that is on the bike, I will consider an aftermarket cruise control - probably the Rostra if I can get some guidance on installation and configuration. For me, a throttle lock is sufficient to give the right hand and wrist a break over relatively flat terrain. The cruise is more about the prevention of performance awards on highways. Set it and forget it.

 
I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned the Rostra (AKA "Rasta") unit. It's electrical, not pneumatic. Its settings appear to be a bit more flexible. OK $260 V $180. User's choice. See both at murphskits.com
My response - #22 above:

My $0.02 - for the money, I couldn't justify the MCCruise (and at the time, they only offered a vacuum unit which I don't like). The parts in the MCCruise kit are off the shelf auto cruise units with the exception of a couple of bike specific parts and connectors.
I installed the Rostra electronic unit and it was very straightforward. I did have to shorten the entire wiring harness but that was pretty easy. There are so many step by step instructions on the web that anyone with basic mechanical aptitude could do it. It took me about 12 hours and if I were doing it again, it would probably take <8 hrs.
 
I've done two CCS-100 installations, one on a Concours C10, the other on our VW Vanagon. The CCS-100 works if... you add the vacuum reservoir. Without it, straight motor vacuum can drop to the point where the pneumatic actuator runs out of breath, if you will. The real deal reservoir, as opposed to a DIY, uses a check valve to keep the reservoir from emptying back into the plumbing. So... you need room for the actuator and the reservoir. Properly done, though, the thing works and works well. One big gotcha, resist the temptation to keep the beaded chain, between the throttle body and the actuator cable, close to taut!!! The motor warms up, the chain tugs on the throttle and vroom, vroom, vroom!!! A lot. DAMHIK
Leave some obvious slack in the chain. All will be well, and the CCS-100 will do its magic.

I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned the Rostra (AKA "Rasta") unit. It's electrical, not pneumatic. Its settings appear to be a bit more flexible. OK $260 V $180. User's choice. See both at murphskits.com

DISCLAIMER: Got no skin in the game, just a happy customer.
Through a long and complicated series of events, I've recently learned it wasn't the slack in the chain that caused over-revving with our VW. It was interference between the ring terminal at the throttle end of the chain interfering with the gas pedal cable. Expansion caused the chain terminal to expand just enough to keep the throttle from fully closing. In short, it wasn't chain tension but interference between the existing throttle hardware and the added chain.

Based on that, I'll still leave a bit of slack in the chain (the actuator won't care) and be very, very, very sure the connection to the existing throttle is such there can be no interference at any engine temperature.

 
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