whining about valve adj.

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 When Suzuki made the Madura, they developed a hydraulic lifter that would rev to 9000 rpm in the 1200s and 10,500 rpm in the 700s. I've hit the rev limiter on mine on more than one occasion and never had a problem in 74,000+ miles.

 
The rev limit for a typical set of stock hydraulic lifters is usually around 6,200 to 6,500 rpm. If you want to rev the engine higher than this, you either need solid lifters or modified performance lifters that can safely handle higher rpms without pumping up or collapsing. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/01/hydraulic-camshafts-and-lifters-101/
Thanks for the link. From there they confirm my understanding that there's a rev limitation inherent in hydraulic lifters that deals with mass and the flow of fluid into and out of the lifter in the shortened times of higher RPM motors. There are designs that can be had (all it takes is money, right?) but even those are RPM limited.

Hydraulic lifters that have an “anti-pump up” design are made with tighter internal clearances and/or special valving to reduce bleed down. Anti-pump up lifters allow higher engine speeds and are a good choice for a dual-purpose street/strip engine. One supplier of such lifters says their anti-pump up lifters can handle engine speeds up to 7,500 rpm with no valve float, and can even be used with many camshafts that are designed for solid lifters.
 
Desmodromic please :)    More efficient and can rev to something like 16k if the newest V4R is a good indicator

 
I agree with FJRay about valve adjustments being a pain. But fellow self wrenching FeeJeeR's be glad you don't have to go through this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTC2C4O-evg 

I just saw this and it reminded me of this thread. To top it all, others have to do that (valve adj.) 2-3 times as many times as us. I'm sure there are other bikes that are far more complicated than that Kawi.

So in the end I have to side with ~G~, FJR's are Eazy Peazy. 😎

 
My 1984 Honda CB700s had hydraulic lifters and a redline of 10,750 IIRC (over 10K for sure).  The cams were ground such that you got the "hit" at about 8K, so I can assure you, I've tested that redline more than 100 times.

I'm from the "its a way to make service money for the dealers" camp.  I do it myself, but I'd much rather ride the bike than work on it.....

 
Shim under bucket systems are as reliable as a hammer. Hydraulic valves do collapse. I'm sure someone will pipe up about their gazillion mile something or other that never had valve problems but the truth is, hydraulic lifters do go bad and do suffer valve float. Checking valves on the FJR is a Saturday afternoon project. It's just not that bad. 

 
Geez it must be winter on the FJR forum with discussion of hydraulic lifters on the FJR.  :D

Heck I am thrilled if I don't have to actually adjust my valves every other check.

 
Shim under bucket systems are as reliable as a hammer. Hydraulic valves do collapse. I'm sure someone will pipe up about their gazillion mile something or other that never had valve problems but the truth is, hydraulic lifters do go bad and do suffer valve float. Checking valves on the FJR is a Saturday afternoon project. It's just not that bad. 
Not that bad..... checking, maybe..... adjusting, no.   

 
Finally watched the video so I'll quit whining for now and go back to the current project which is building a vintage flat head six for a 1955 Chris Craft boat. No way can the valves hit the pistons on a flat head.

After that it's fixing the kick start on a 59 Pan Head Harley.

I like simple cause I got a simple mind. :punk:

 
Finally watched the video so I'll quit whining for now and go back to the current project which is building a vintage flat head six for a 1955 Chris Craft boat. No way can the valves hit the pistons on a flat head.

After that it's fixing the kick start on a 59 Pan Head Harley.

I like simple cause I got a simple mind. :punk:
Did you get the coil replaced?

 
Did you get the coil replaced?
Ya finally got one that works. Aftermarket Chinese junk but it makes spark for now. The old dog runs so now waiting for my buddy Leon to come test ride it. I'm not riding a foot clutch hand shift on the road.. I'm dangerous enough as it is.

 
I never minded the foot clutch much it was that 3 speed with reverse, pop the clutch in reverse once. JSNS

Ray, try doing the Super Tenere once with those big mitts you have! One PIA.

 
Finally watched the video so I'll quit whining for now and go back to the current project which is building a vintage flat head six for a 1955 Chris Craft boat. No way can the valves hit the pistons on a flat head.

After that it's fixing the kick start on a 59 Pan Head Harley.

I like simple cause I got a simple mind. :punk:
Thanks, all the excuse I need. 😁




 
I just finished the first valve check on my 2006 AE at 68,000 miles. I bought the bike with 38,000 miles, and I’ll guess that the valves were never check before since there was no sealant on the valve cover gasket. All valve clearances were in spec, so I won’t ever check the valves again. I also replaced the cam chain tensioner with the latest green dot version for peace of mind, even though my engine was quiet.
 
Good move to replace the CCT!
My first check on my '07 showed all valves within spec although some (intakes) were close to the minimum. Didn't need to adjust any until 100,000 miles or so. Adjustments were needed once more at maybe 175,000 miles - sold it at 185,000. Valve check is good to do at the prescribed intervals. Change plugs and coolant at the same time.
 
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