Widening stock bars

[Cherryriver]

I think I could use a little bit more leverage on the handlebars of my new-to-me '09. Something I've actually done in the distant past was section (cut) a handlebar and insert a plug, then weld it back together. Done under the grip or switchgear areas, it's not noticeable. I'm thinking in terms of adding 3/4"-1" (18-25mm) per side.

Does anyone know if the grip portion is hollow and therefore this is doable?
Or maybe there's too much mental noodling going on here as the temps beyond the garage door slide below zero. Fahrenheit.

 

[BigOgre]

Can't say I've ever read about this done here on the Forum but have you seen this thread? Maybe another option to achieve what your looking for?

 

[SLK50]

There are ways to lighten the steering: tire profile, air pressure,

preload, fork height, etc. that dont require custom fabrication.

JS

 

[Eagle Six]

Would the cables, brake lines, clutch, electrics be long enough? Probably so, but if you also have or may want a riser, they may get binded going to full lock. The brake line should be a simple extension fix, but not so sure about the others.

 

[900gc]

Another option is an MV-Motorrad riser https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/Yamaha+FJR+1300+2006+up+to+2015+MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate.htm which allows for the handlebars to be swung out which in effect widens them a bit. I did that with mine and liked the width and angle but went back to leaning too far forward so reverted back to 'full back' position.

 

[Cherryriver]

Thanks, but the bike came with the MV adapter, which isn't doing it for me. As soon as I settle on the final solution, it likely will be for sale here.
I keep fighting it, but I have a feeling I'll end up with the Heli bridge after all, assuming I get settled in with the bike and keep it.

But all I was really after here was whether the stock bars are hollow or not, which I believe they are now based on other research.
Still really unhappy with the reach to the ground and the Saddlemen seat. Another story, but on bad surfaces like loose gravel or sand, I won't want to be paddling this thing around.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Why wait until the 'final solution'?
Don't understand why you are tossing money into something you figure you're going to sell and not get your money back.

Don't want to be a bigger **** but you should have done your homework before buying it.

 

[Uncle Hud]

Bustanut joker posted: Why wait until the 'final solution'? Don't understand why you are tossing money into something you figure you're going to sell and not get your money back.

Don't want to be a bigger **** but you should have done your homework before buying it.

Easy there, big boy. I think he's going to sell the MV riser .... not the FJR.

And we all know you can't possibly be a bigger ****.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I prefer the helibridge. I ran it with the bars all the way back for a while (which I think is stock width and angle, just higher and further back) and while that was fine, I ended up going one hash mark forward. That's the sweet spot for me. Puts the bars at a little less of an angle, and farther apart, which makes a bike that feels good already feel lighter.

 

[Eagle Six]

I keep fighting it, but I have a feeling I'll end up with the Heli bridge after all, assuming I get settled in with the bike and keep it.
Still really unhappy with the reach to the ground and the Saddlemen seat. Another story, but on bad surfaces like loose gravel or sand, I won't want to be paddling this thing around.

With the top heavy weight of my 07' FJR, I wasn't happy either on tippy toes going on gravel and grass. For that I had Soupy adjustable dog bones and an adjustable kick stand installed. Wanting to keep as much road clearance as possible I only lower the bike 5/8". I then lowered the triple tree a 1/2" which brought back the rack/trail geometry (most would not do that and it is not necessary). With that, I can almost flat foot when solo and gives me acceptable handling in the bike. When loaded and my passenger I can then flat foot, which isn't necessary but I like it with the extra weight and a passenger on board.

The bike came with the Helibar bridge. As pointed out by Bill, the bridge puts the bars up and back, plus has adjustment for the angle forward or back. Forward will give the widest grip and back the shortest width between grips. I like the full forward, which provide the widest distance between grips, not to get the width but to take out some of the back, because unlike most I prefer to lean forward. However, this position doesn't agree with my wrist, so I usually have it set farthest back, which puts the grip width about factory and is kinder to my wrist.

Don't know if any of this helps, I would think lowering the bike a bit and using the bridge may be just enough for you to really like your FJR. The other advantage to the adjustable lowering links and the adjustable Helibar bridge is the key word 'adjustable'. Although I haven't readjusted the lowering links yet, now that I am used to the FJR, I think I could easy take it back to factory height and have confidence on dirt, gravel, and grass. Often it is only a condition, of the rider conditioning to the bike. So, I have learned and gained the confidence to ride the FJR and don't even think about the top heavy weight when going into or out of challenging surfaces, rather I pay attention to the surface like I would with any 2 wheel vehicle.

 

[Cherryriver]

Let's see. I ran up a post requesting simple information: are the FJR bars hollow? and explained why.

I got this thread. Good heavens.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Are you planning to install a part or accessory to achieve your goal?....... I think we forgot to tell you youd be much better off using economical, proven bar widening techniques rather than trying to weld or glom on the rather thin stock bars, and jumped straight to smarter ways to fix your problem. So.

They are hollow, but not empty.

Looking forward to hearing how it goes.

 

[bugboy]

I don't know if they are hollow. Apparently, no one knows.

 

[FJRay]

They are hollow for a ways to accommodate the insert for the bar end weight. If you take the bar end off and use something small you can find out how deep it goes.

 

[Bounce]

I thought the bar material was cast. If so, isn't that an issue with welding?

 

[FJRay]

As long as it's good cast aluminum it should be no problem to weld. I would turn a slug to plug weld on each side so as not to depend on a butt weld on thin material. It would be bad form for the bars to break on a hard bump.

 

[Uncle Hud]

Cherryriver posted: Let's see. I ran up a post requesting simple information: are the FJR bars hollow? and explained why.
I got this thread. Good heavens.

I think we'll all interpret your answer as, "Thanks!"

Welcome to the FJRForum, where answers are free and so is sarcasm!

FJRay's answers are probably the best answer around. He knows about this stuff. The rest of us just know about smartassery.

 

[FJReady]

I think if I were faced with this situation I would do the following in order to lengthen the bar grip surfaces.

Objective is to move the grip and control assemblies outward one inch (approx.), right? I would make extensions for the bars that thread into the existing bar ends. Except that I would first remove the rubber mounted plugs that are in there which the stock bar end cap screws thread into. Those are 6mm threads I believe. But I'm pretty sure that they are not rigid mounted and can't be trusted for the strength you'll likely need to hold bar extensions.

The aluminum bar extension would be made same diameter as the bars are now (7/8") I believe with a threaded boss on one end, approx. 14mm (maybe larger, depends on inside diameter of the stock bars. The threaded boss length would need to be about 16mm long (~5/8"). This will thread into the tapped holes you will make in the stock bars. So the bar extensions are 1 5/8" long with about 5/8" of 14mm thread on one end. Additionally I would put a 6mm thread into the end of the extension in order to attach the stock factory bar ends.

Now I say 14mm thread but that's based on a mod I did on my FJ-09 aftermarket bars. I don't know the size that would be required on the FJR stock bars. The thread OD would have to be approx. 1 - 1.5 mm bigger than the ID of the bars. It wouldn't have to be metric either as long as the extensions match the thread.

I'd go through all this threading trouble because I don't know enough about welding aluminum and how the heat treat and strength will be affected.

The hardest part of my proposal is making the bar extensions. Easy for a good machinist if you know one.

Then to relocate the grips and controls you'd have to drill new alignment holes exactly 1" further out on the bars.

Hope this makes sense and maybe helps.

 

[FJRay]

Not a bad approach at all and it would be easier to remove if it wasn't what you wanted.