Wilbers front Fork Springs, install?

[Fastfckr]

I'm hoping on seeing Mr. UPS today, and being handed a large box from Wilbers that will include my rear shock and front fork springs.

Has anyone posted the 'How to" on this install?

This is the closest I could find: https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/springupdate.html

What would be different?

ZZZzz

 

[ionbeam]

From the same web site, there is also a total tear down of the front fork here. These two articles should supplement the FSM very well.

You can go to Yamaha's web site and see an exploded view of the front forks in the parts catalog. You have to go through Yamaha's entry page here.

 

[radman]

Greg, if ya wanna pull the fork tubes this week, we could do 'em here at work on Sat or Sun if ya like. Or, bring the whole scoot for that matter-weather might cooperate this weekend.

 

[MSFMikeyJ]

Don't forget these links (they were helpful for my install):

Rear shock (with remote preload)

Front springs

 

[Fastfckr]

Well, as UPS promised, I recieved my Wilbers box today!!!!

It looks like this, for you guys who didn't step up to the plate;

Here it is opened;

Figure out these instructions???

Radman, how is the weather suppose to be this weekend??????

ZZZzz

 

[radman]

Sunday--slight chance of rain,snow;high near 40.

 

[ZZZzz]

ZZZzz formerly known as"Fastfckr", i changed ISP, had problems replying, screw it , new name ZZZzz

I had my neighbor how is studying German translate what the Wilbers document said.

Greg,

"Most of this is the warranty terms. It's the usual stuff, they're not liable

for anything other than fixing a defect in workmanship. Warranty is 5 years

from the date of purchase, doesn't cover abuse or failure to maintain. Any

modification with non Wilbers parts voids the warranty. Documentation of

maintenance every 2 years or 20,000 km must be made on the warranty papers (the

two boxes next to Sergej's signature). Maintenance must be done by factory

authorized handlers or Wilbers themselves. Warranty claims are to be handled

through the place you purchased from. Your receipt is required documentation

for a warranty claim.

Other stuff you want to know is the table at the bottom:

Your strut has the following initial settings:

1. Rebound Damping 12 Clicks

2. Compression damping blue 0 Clicks

3. Compression damping red 0 Clicks

4. Spring Preload 16 mm

Oh and some guy named Sergej was the final quality inspector and he signed off

on it on Feb 1, 2006.

You need to bring on some tougher stuff, I've had business German courses so

warranty terms are easy stuff, find me something on heady scientific stuff -

that will make me have to work to translate it. This took <5 minutes."

-Brian

I'm still not sure what the very bottom of the document means by

Spring 59/59-105-150 A/A: 328mm

Has anyone called Klaus and have asked him what those numbers mean?

ZZZzz

 

[valetz]

I gots one of them fancy motion fluid level tools for he forks if'n yah wanna borrow it.

-bvw.

 

[Bounce]

I see you got the "boring accountant" spring color.

 

[igoforit]

Hopefully this has a quick answer.

Can the Wilber's fork springs be replace without removing the forks? In other words can you acces the springs by just removing the fork caps and pulling the springs from the top?

Hopefully someone knows.

igoforit

 

[jestal]

Hopefully this has a quick answer. Can the Wilber's fork springs be replace without removing the forks? In other words can you acces the springs by just removing the fork caps and pulling the springs from the top?

Hopefully someone knows.

igoforit

I would say no.

When you unscrew the fork caps the front end will collapse so you would have to hold the bike up with a floor jack under the pipes to keep the front end up when the caps are removed. Then you would have to lower it to get the springs and spacer to stick up out of the fork tubes to access them. I think in most cases there is not clearance for the innards of the fork tubes to extend above the caps...i.e...they will hit the cables and wires and handlebars. Some of the handlebar risers/extensions might have moved the bars enough to clear but it would still be a hassle.

It is far easier to just remove the forks tubes. In either case you have to support the front end with a block of wood under the pipes and a jack of some sort. Just lift it up and remove the front wheel. It is really quite simple to get the wheel off and loosen the pinch bolts on the triple clamps and remove the fork tubes. Then it is much easier to change the springs, set the oil level, change the fork oil, etc....

If your fork tubes could slide straight upwards for 8 inches or so without hitting your handlebars or control cables (look at your bars/risers set up) you might be able to pull off changing the springs with the forks on the bike but you will definitely have to support the bike underneath and lower it to get the spings out in the open somehow.

 

[twowheelnut]

I see you got the "boring accountant" spring color.

Snigger! :haha:

 

[twowheelnut]

Hopefully this has a quick answer.  Can the Wilber's fork springs be replace without removing the forks?  In other words can you acces the springs by just removing the fork caps and pulling the springs from the top?

Hopefully someone knows.

igoforit

I would say no.

...

Sorry to disagree. You can leave the forks in the trees, but jestal is right that it is quite easy to pull the forks and a better way to go. And, judging by the three spring changes I've been involved in, a thorough flushing of the old oil is highly recommended for which you must remove the forks. This also gives you an opportunity to clean and lube a some of the front end. May even be a good time to service the steering head, depending on your mileage and riding conditions.

Mine and Skooter's oils were black, as in, shot (18k on mine 55k on skoot's). vectervp's was clean as a whistle - forget his mileage, though - more than mine...

 

[radman]

You should change the oil, for the obvious reasons, but also because the oil attached to the springs as they're removed won't neccesarily be equal in volume, so the side would be off. But you CAN remove them with the front end in place, contrary to what others have said. Simply do one side at a time, leaving the other tube capped. One spring will support the bike, easily. If the forks had drain plugs, like most others do, this would be a much simpler task.

 

[Geezer]

If the forks had drain plugs, like most others do, this would be a much simpler task.

I have been wondering about that myself. Why no drain plug on these tubes? Surely the cost of putting them in during manufacturing would be pretty small.

 

[jestal]

Guess I better look at mine again. Looked like it would be pretty difficult to slide the springs and attached hardware upward off the supporting rod without collidiing with the handlebars and cables and such. Or, did you remove the handlebars, too??

It is so easy to pull the fork tubes that I've honestly never tried to dissassemble the internals on the bike.

Sorry for the misinformation.

If you want to drain the forks on the bike why not just unscrew the compression adjuster fitting....??? Not just the adjustment screw but the whole fitting. It comes loose quite easily and, when removed, would dump the oil from the fork tube just like the drain ports on some of the older bikes. If you take the compression damping fitting off to do this be aware that there is a small, flat steel washer under the fitting that you need to keep track of (it might disappear into the oil flow into the drain pan otherwise) and re-install when the fitting is put back into place.

 

[radman]

If the forks had drain plugs, like most others do, this would be a much simpler task.

I have been wondering about that myself. Why no drain plug on these tubes? Surely the cost of putting them in during manufacturing would be pretty small.

I think it's part of the "no maintenance required" trend we're seeing throughout the vehicle spectrum. Some new cars have no engine oil dipstick, only a pan sensor to tell you when you're low ("not that that would ever happen on our product"), some have had no trans level dipstick for some time, as the trans never needs attention ("especially on our product!") These forks never need the fluid changed, except every few years when you're putting seals in, because the fluid was the consistency of watery toothpaste, although the tube protectors go a long way in preventing problems.

 

[radman]

If you want to drain the forks on the bike why not just unscrew the compression adjuster fitting....??? Not just the adjustment screw but the whole fitting. It comes loose quite easily and, when removed, would dump the oil from the fork tube just like the drain ports on some of the older bikes. If you take the compression damping fitting off to do this be aware that there is a small, flat steel washer under the fitting that you need to keep track of (it might disappear into the oil flow into the drain pan otherwise) and re-install when the fitting is put back into place.

I've pulled the tubes a couple times now for fluid changing, so it's no big deal, just have done the spring pull on several while the tubes are in place, so I know it would work on the Feej too, once the bars were outta the way. I thought about pulling the compression adjuster, but wasn't sure of what I might also pop loose in the procedure, so left it alone. I would think that for a yearly change like I do, where the fluid isn't really bad, and an accurate measure, it might work, as long as the fluid remaining in the fork was equal between the tubes, as air space seems to be the preferred method of adjusting the amount in this bike.

 

[ZZZzz]

I see you got the "boring accountant" spring color. biggrin.gif"

Believe me, I got plenty of "Bling" elsewhere, I don't need more under my fjr's ass.

As Warchild might say, Gay!

ZZZzz