GunMD
Well-known member
I installed my new Wilbers rear shock today. I opted for the remote preload and remote compression damping.
This little gem right here:
The FJRTech article helped a lot. The one thing missing in that article was the installation of the remote compression adjuster...the model being installed for the article write-up didn't have this option.
There was one minor detail that I'll add when it comes to the installation of this optional component. On my 2005 California version (Non-ABS) I found a canister (which I think is part of the emissions crap) directly in my path for routing the remote compression adjuster. (below)
I needed to unbolt this canister's bracket from the FJR's frame and move it slightly in order to feed the compression adjuster into its final position. There are two 10mm bolts holding the canister's bracket to the back side of the frame very near the top shock flange. A 1/4" drive ratchet worked nicely for this operation. (below)
A slightly different angle:
Once these two 10mm bolts are removed the canister can be moved around to make room for the compression adjuster. After feeding the compression adjuster through the space vacated by the canister you can reinstall the canister, making sure you don't pinch the line leading to the newly installed compression adjuster. There is plenty of room.
Once its done it'll look something like this:
This little gem right here:
The FJRTech article helped a lot. The one thing missing in that article was the installation of the remote compression adjuster...the model being installed for the article write-up didn't have this option.
There was one minor detail that I'll add when it comes to the installation of this optional component. On my 2005 California version (Non-ABS) I found a canister (which I think is part of the emissions crap) directly in my path for routing the remote compression adjuster. (below)
I needed to unbolt this canister's bracket from the FJR's frame and move it slightly in order to feed the compression adjuster into its final position. There are two 10mm bolts holding the canister's bracket to the back side of the frame very near the top shock flange. A 1/4" drive ratchet worked nicely for this operation. (below)
A slightly different angle:
Once these two 10mm bolts are removed the canister can be moved around to make room for the compression adjuster. After feeding the compression adjuster through the space vacated by the canister you can reinstall the canister, making sure you don't pinch the line leading to the newly installed compression adjuster. There is plenty of room.
Once its done it'll look something like this:
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