Windscreen not retracting w/ key off/neutral, etc??

[blakmambo]

Gents:

Had the 09er out for a short ride today, raised the W/S as it is a bit "chilly" here in SoCal . . . went to the gas station, shut it off. Gassed up, got back on the bike, WTF the screen is still up?? Rode it around a bit, the switch seems to only raise the screen, but not lower it? Got back home, turned key on and off and tried to "encourage" the screen to lower, but it wasn't taking the hint.

Simple fix? Or, major surgery to get to it??

 

[RossKean]

Gents:

Had the 09er out for a short ride today, raised the W/S as it is a bit "chilly" here in SoCal . . . went to the gas station, shut it off. Gassed up, got back on the bike, WTF the screen is still up?? Rode it around a bit, the switch seems to only raise the screen, but not lower it? Got back home, turned key on and off and tried to "encourage" the screen to lower, but it wasn't taking the hint.

Simple fix? Or, major surgery to get to it??

It could be the microswitch or the mechanism could be jammed from the rubber (actually PVC) gasket coming detached. Fairly big job - nose fairing needs to come off. You can use the opportunity to reattach the gasket (3M double-sided trim tape) after cleaning everything up with isopropyl alcohol. You can check the tension of the drive and clean and lubricate the tracks while you're at it.

 

[rbentnail]

If the rubber seal has come loose and isn't too stuck in something, you can simply try pulling it out the front through the slots without disassembling anything and see what happens. No need to replace it unless you really want to. My'07 has been without one for about 8 yrs through all kinds of weather.

But if you need it this downloadable pdf might help -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tlfvv03xc2f4lb3/Gen 2 Plastics Removal.pdf?dl=0

 

[blakmambo]

It could be the microswitch or the mechanism could be jammed from the rubber (actually PVC) gasket coming detached. Fairly big job - nose fairing needs to come off. You can use the opportunity to reattach the gasket (3M double-sided trim tape) after cleaning everything up with isopropyl alcohol. You can check the tension of the drive and clean and lubricate the tracks while you're at it.

If the rubber seal has come loose and isn't too stuck in something, you can simply try pulling it out the front through the slots without disassembling anything and see what happens. No need to replace it unless you really want to. My'07 has been without one for about 8 yrs through all kinds of weather.

But if you need it this downloadable pdf might help -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tlfvv03xc2f4lb3/Gen 2 Plastics Removal.pdf?dl=0

Gents:

Thanks for the replies . . . it doesn't seem like the motor is trying to move the screen down, but is jammed; it just doesn't seem to want to go down, only up.

Right now I have other stuff on my plate, I have been attempting to segue out of the sport, but just haven't had time to deal with letting the bike go, just kick the can down the road, etc. Wouldn't have time to remove the nose cone, but I could look in there and see if something is wedged in the mechanism . . . .

 

[RossKean]

Note: If it is jammed or the pulley is slipping, the motor will continue to "try" to lower the shield after the key is turned off. I am not sure if there is any "time-out" on that or not. If not, it is possible to burn out the motor, damage the mechanism or at least run down the battery.

If it is just the microswitch then there is no issue.

If the bike is in neutral when you turn off the key, the neutral light remains illuminated until the screen is fully retracted for a Gen II bike. A quick test might give you a better idea of what is going on.

 

[blakmambo]

Note: If it is jammed or the pulley is slipping, the motor will continue to "try" to lower the shield after the key is turned off. I am not sure if there is any "time-out" on that or not. If not, it is possible to burn out the motor, damage the mechanism or at least run down the battery.

If it is just the microswitch then there is no issue.

If the bike is in neutral when you turn off the key, the neutral light remains illuminated until the screen is fully retracted for a Gen II bike. A quick test might give you a better idea of what is going on.

@RossKean

I don't recall the neutral light staying on, if at all, after turning the key off?? The "microswitch" would be the switch in the handlebar area?? i.e., easier to get to than "the motor"???

 

[RossKean]

Microswitch is under the nose fairing. Do you have the auto-retract disabled?
If in neutral when the key is switched off, the neutral light normally remains illuminated until the windshield fully retracts.

 

[blakmambo]

Microswitch is under the nose fairing. Do you have the auto-retract disabled?
If in neutral when the key is switched off, the neutral light normally remains illuminated until the windshield fully retracts.

@RossKean

I have not done anything to "disable auto-retract" . . . as mentioned, at the start of the "ride" I put the screen up, when I restarted at the gas station the screen was still up. Did not do anything other than turn the key to off to fuel up. Screen can not be convinced to drop down now.

 

[blakmambo]

Latest update:

Went out this morning to get the bike ready for a little riding, turned the key on to put the brake lock in the fairing pocket and when I turned the key off, the windscreen dropped down, to the end of the holders range . . . but possibly not fully?? [photos attached]

So, that brought me back to one of the posts here about how "the microswitch might drain the battery"??? I had the bike plugged into a Battery Tender all night long. Got the multimeter out . . . standing volts showed 7.9 to 8.5V . . . kept jumping back and forth. Figured that was it for "the ride," but started it up while plugged in and ran the bike for 30 mins or so. About 20 mins in the running voltage went from the previous 8V to 13.9V . . . so I thought the battery was "charging." After I shut the bike down I checked the voltage and standing volts were back down to 7.9V . . . .

I just checked and the battery was installed in 11/18 . . . sort of toward the end of my semi-serious riding career . . . much of its "life" has been spent sitting.

So, I plugged the battery tender back in and I'll check it later. The question for the post is, did the windscreen staying in the "up" position drain or kill the battery, or, key off, so nothing was happening electrically?? And then, if the screen is "almost down" but not entirely, would that be putting a load on the battery, therefore making installation of new battery an effort in futility???

 

[Cyclepath]

Yep, sounds like you battery may not be taking the charge you're trying to give it.
If the bike was not running, and your static voltage measurement was still jumping around, it could be you have some low resistance / mild short in the harness draining down the battery too (?).

How about the bike's own charging circuit components? Alternator, rectifier, regulator ?

Decades ago, I had a '77 RD400 that seemed to suffer a similar issue. On that admittedly smaller / much simpler bike, it turned out to be its rectifier [draining away current to ground] - so my battery went flat almost every day until I replaced the rectifier.

 

[blakmambo]

Yep, sounds like you battery may not be taking the charge you're trying to give it.
If the bike was not running, and your static voltage measurement was still jumping around, it could be you have some low resistance / mild short in the harness draining down the battery too (?).

How about the bike's own charging circuit components? Alternator, rectifier, regulator ?

Decades ago, I had a '77 RD400 that seemed to suffer a similar issue. On that admittedly smaller / much simpler bike, it turned out to be its rectifier [draining away current to ground] - so my battery went flat almost every day until I replaced the rectifier.

@Cyclepath

Thanks for the thoughts . . . until recently everything about the bike was fine and up to snuff, as far as I could tell. Once a month I'd put the bike on the Bat Tender over night and run the bike for a short ride to keep things moving. Two weeks back the battery tested fine in standing volts.

Difficult to know if the coldish weather here has degraded the battery or if the screen had a hand in it. I recall in the early days of my riding some 33 years back that guys with Suzuki GS1100's were having some "regulator-rectifier" issues . . . but I think that has been cleaned up by the manufacturers, although I can't say I know all of the weak spots of the FJR . . . .

The windscreen mechanism seems to have potential flaws to exploit the overall status of the bike is perhaps one???

 

[RossKean]

Charge the battery completely out of the bike. Let it "rest" 24 hours in case self discharge is high and then have it load tested. If OK, put it back in the bike and use an ammeter to check for parasitic draw. Windshield mechanism is possible issue - not sure if it times out when trying to retract with ignition off. If you have more than a couple milliamps parasitic draw, you will need to chase it down.

Note: The auto retract can be disabled...

 

[blakmambo]

Charge the battery completely out of the bike. Let it "rest" 24 hours in case self discharge is high and then have it load tested. If OK, put it back in the bike and use an ammeter to check for parasitic draw. Windshield mechanism is possible issue - not sure if it times out when trying to retract with ignition off. If you have more than a couple milliamps parasitic draw, you will need to chase it down.

Note: The auto retract can be disabled...

@RossKean

Thanks for the procedures . . . in the meanwhile from when I posted earlier I did put the battery back on the Tender and I checked it a few minutes back it showed "13 V" right after I unplugged it from the Tender . . . . I want to check it in a bit or tomorrow to see if it holds a charge, before I mess around pulling the battery, etc.

But, load testing it is a good idea. I was just on the phone with an old riding buddy from the early 90's COG club and he suggested trying to pull the fuse that would power the screen, which, if there is such a thing, might be a quick n dirty way to cut any pull on the battery from the screen????

The question remains, if the key is off why would screen be pulling power?? And, on the generic mutlimeter, is there an ammeter function to test for parasitic draws??? Electrical is a know area of weakness for this old wood carpenter, I know "wood" but very little about 'lectrical things . . . : - 0

 

[RossKean]

When you switch off the ignition, the windshield will auto retract until it activates a microswitch. Not sure if it times out if switch isn't activated. Auto retract can be disabled. (Fo some searching) A multimeter will have sn amp range. You need to disconnect the battery ground and place the meter in series. Caution- meter is likely fused at 10 smps or less so don't attempt to start bike, run accessories or lights. If you aren't sure, seek some help from someone who knows.

 

[blakmambo]

When you switch off the ignition, the windshield will auto retract until it activates a microswitch. Not sure if it times out if switch isn't activated. Auto retract can be disabled. (Fo some searching) A multimeter will have sn amp range. You need to disconnect the battery ground and place the meter in series. Caution- meter is likely fused at 10 smps or less so don't attempt to start bike, run accessories or lights. If you aren't sure, seek some help from someone who knows.

LOL, I was around guyz in the past who were "install first, then read instructions" kind of guys. While I was out by the bike I switched to "continuity" to check "resistance" . . . showed as 0.L?? Then I went in and read through the brief Klein manual . . . and saw the "Warning, do not check a live circuit" . . . . We live for danger, etc.

 

[Ridelikethewind]

Low voltage can cause a myriad of issues. If the battery voltage drops below a certain voltage, most electric components that have any form of computer equipment running them will stick their tongue out at you, especially if less than 8.5 to 9v. Hope you find the gremlin giving you the issues.

 

[blakmambo]

Low voltage can cause a myriad of issues. If the battery voltage drops below a certain voltage, most electric components that have any form of computer equipment running them will stick their tongue out at you, especially if less than 8.5 to 9v. Hope you find the gremlin giving you the issues.

@Ridelikethewind

Indeed, it **used** to be that the cheapest fix for any problem on a bike would be a new battery, no longer the case these days as apparently battery technology has grown exponentially in value. But, worth looking into . . . .