Windshield tuning 'hose'

[FJReady]

During the 70 days my FJR was hibernating this winter I came up with a simple mod to reposition the windscreen- effectively duplicating the pricey 'tuning block'.

What I did was to install some rubber hose sections between the W bracket ( I wish it was known as something else. Oops-sorry) and the linkage piece it is screwed to. I bought some longer 6mm flat head screws first, then took two slices off my syphon hose which is about 5/16" ID and 5/8" OD. I cut the slices about 1/4" long. Installation was simple- just sandwich the hose pieces over the screws and between the two bracket parts. Because they're black you hardly notice them.

I didn't get up to highway speeds on my short test Saturday but I think there is less back pressure, I presume from the now bigger gap between the bottom of windscreen and fairing.

Overall I'mm have with the new geometry- doesn't go up quite as far, but enough for me. It is a CeeBaileys +4+2, standard contour.

I'll update results once I have more road time. Pictures too, if I remember.

BTW, the bike started right up, not even a sputter. I love fuel injection.

FJReady

 

[Geezer]

I haven't 'tuned' my windshield yet but there are some posts about it that were pretty active in July and August of '05. The general concensus seems to be that metal spacers are required. There is a lot of pressure on the windshield at speed and plactic or rubber spacers will likely not hold up for long.

 

[BrunDog]

I would imagine the bottom scres by the tuner are under tension, not compression. Should not be affected.

-BD

 

[Geezer]

That makes sense except that the shield does wiggle around quite a bit under various conditions. Maybe the rubber is OK but it's probably worth keeping an eye on it for the first few months.

 

[FJRocha]

I haven't 'tuned' my windshield yet but there are some posts about it that were pretty active in July and August of '05. The general concensus seems to be that metal spacers are required. There is a lot of pressure on the windshield at speed and plactic or rubber spacers will likely not hold up for long.

I used two 1/2" nylon washers as spacers between the bottom bracket and the W frame. This is with the CB +4+4. Yep, the w/s does vibrate a bit, with or without the spacers. I used blue loctite to keep the screws from loosening, but I don’t think that was necessary. Overall I am satisfied with the setup, although it is not as quiet as I would like it, maybe some more tunning is required.

 

[Reg# 43897]

By the way, anybody know how 'easy' it is to source new plastic bolts for the windscren? Don't ask...

John.

 

[Toecutter]

By the way, anybody know how 'easy' it is to source new plastic bolts for the windscren? Don't ask...

Just call Gary Mc Coy, University Motors 866-551-6478

 

[Toecutter]

I bought some longer 6mm flat head screws first, then took two slices off my syphon hose which is about 5/16" ID and 5/8" OD. I cut the slices about 1/4" long. Installation was simple- just sandwich the hose pieces over the screws and between the two bracket parts. Because they're black you hardly notice them.
I didn't get up to highway speeds on my short test Saturday but I think there is less back pressure, I presume from the now bigger gap between the bottom of windscreen and fairing.

I'd be leery of doing this (again) myself. I did something similar with nylon spacers and longer screws. It worked good for quite a while, then one cold, foggy day the screw heads snapped off at about 85 mph on a freeway onramp, leaving the windscreen laying atop the handlebars for the 15 mile cold ride home. Maybe the screws I got weren't hard enough or something, but they allowed for too much movement which must have stressed them repeatedly. YMMV

 

[bikerjazz]

Maybe the screws I got weren't hard enough or something

You didn't use locktite on those plastic screws by chance?

 

[Toecutter]

Maybe the screws I got weren't hard enough or something

You didn't use locktite on those plastic screws by chance?

No, and the screws I used to hold the frame down were metal, w/o Locktite.

 

[radman]

I was one of the first to make a home made tuner, using Rifles idea. Using a 3/8 nut at each screw, on a +4+4 Cee Bailey, the setup has worked as expected, solid with no play or vibe, for 15,000 miles now, tested at full vertical at 135mph. I think the key is a solid base (the 3/8 nut as a spacer) as opposed to using pliable spacers (nylon, rubber). My opinion, nothing more.

 

[Scab]

You can tune a windshield, but you can't tuna fish.

 

[brazos parker]

@radman

When you "tuned" your windshield w/ the 3/8" nuts, did you replace the screws? If so, what size? And, were they stainless? or nylon?

Thanx.

 

[FJRocket]

I used the "Rad's nuts" :tease: technique with new M6 bolts and nuts. You raise the W support higher above the motor arm where it attaches. No change to the platic screws.

Cee Baily 4+4, over 15K miles, much at high speed, and no problems. Thanks again Rad! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[FJRandy]

You can tune a windshield, but you can't tuna fish.

Showing our age, are we?? :bleh:

 

[raclow]

Where are the pics of this invention??????

 

[brazos parker]

+1 on the pics...thanx.