Winter Storage

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Spud

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I've read various posts on this and there are different opinions. My bike gets stored from around Nov-April more or less. I've read threads that say to just park it with some fuel stabilizer, full tank, trickle charger, and no need to do anything else. Last winter I tried that and I had one hell of a time getting it to fire up after it sat for several months. My bike is stored in an attached garage that stays at the perfect temperature to keep a beer cold but will freeze a bottle of water.

I'm going back to my old practice of firing it up every 3 weeks or so and letting it idle to a few bars of temp, give it a few revs here and there, and shutting it down again. When I've done that before it always fires up w/o having to crank much. If others keep a bike stored where it's pretty cold and it fires right up after sitting for a long while, I'm wondering why mine struggles? What are your experiences?

 
Oil Change, check fluids, add Stabil to fuel, connect to Deltran Battery Tender Jr. and check tire pressures once a month and make sure it is still in my detached garage. Have never had a problem in the spring after following this routine. I am pretty sure we don't encounter the temperatures in Seattle that you experience in Idaho though and that may make all the difference in the world. Maybe placing a 60 Watt incandescent bulb below the engine a couple of days before trying to start it would help ?

 
Spud, I like to buy some (expensive) non-oxy gas, add stabil (and/or seafoam) and run it a little to circulate the stuff.

You could change oil, insulate the tires w/ plywood, and add the trickle charger monthly (I do them all) or not.

In the Spring she always jumps to attention on the first crank!
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I would go get better gas for winter storage.

Try www.pure-gas.org and see if that helps.

 
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Here in Canada all I've ever done is park it when I use it last. Fire it up in the spring when I need it again. No fuss no muss. If i remember I check the air pressure before I take it out in the spring. Oh... check the airbox for mice.

 
Fill tank, use stabilizer if you want. I usually get non-alky gas but don't fret about it if I forget. No battery tender and I don't disconnect it but top off battery with a slow charge, 1 amp, once or twice in the four month layoff. The FJR has a VERY low parasitic draw! Unheated garage. Never start it during the winter. Never had any startup issues.

 
Oh... check the airbox for mice.

Back when my CBR stayed in a shed, I had to put screens on the snorkles to the air box.

Acorns were bouncing around and I thought the top end was going bad.

 
I am storing mine in a heated garage this year but had it in a "somewhat" heated attached garage the last two years. I would change the oil, put startron in, keep the float charger plugged in, check the tires and run it for at least half an hour once weekly. If it's dry and not too awful I will get it out and ride it around town a little. Never had trouble starting the FJR or my old Connie in the spring.

 
Is changing the oil for convenience sake come spring? I have 1000 miles on fresh oil and filter changed last month. Why would I want to change that oil before a four month storage in a heated garage? I plan on riding when the weather allows so not really a four month respite.

I've read some interesting theories about used oil, in the bike, becoming acidic or having petroleum bi products in it that may harm the engine during winterization?? Whats the difference? That same oil is running throughout the motor during the riding season! I change my oil (MC specific semi synthetic) every four thousand miles with a new filter.

Someone set me straight. Where are all of these bikes that have damaged engines because the oil wasn't changed before going into winter storage??

What's the thinking here??

Baffled, Uenjoy

 
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Is changing the oil for convenience sake come spring? I have 1000 miles on fresh oil and filter changed last month. Why would I want to change that oil before a four month storage in a heated garage? I plan on riding when the weather allows so not really a four month respite.
I've read some interesting theories about used oil becoming acidic and having petroleum bi products in it. That its not good setting in a resting engine?? Whats the difference? That same oil is running through the motor during the riding season! I change my oil (semi synthetic) every four thousand miles with a new filter.

Someone set me straight here. Where are all of these bikes that have short lived lives because the oil wasn't changed before going into winter storage??

Whats the thinking here??

Baffled, Uenjoy
I change my oil between 5000kms and 8000kms. I now have 212000 kms.... NO TROUBLES. If you want to throw money away change your oil for storage. I have worked in the auto industry for over 40 years. From vehicle production to vehicle scrapping. You're waisting your money changing the oil for storage and then changing it again in the spring. My well experienced 2 cents worth.

 
I live about 300 miles north of the Montana border, and our temps occasionally dip to about -40c / -40f a couple times each winter.

Keep my old Gen 1 on a trickle charger, Stabil added to a full tank, cover her up, tuck her in, and that's pretty much it for me the last 5 years.

 
I don't change good oil out just because it's Winter. I have never added a trickle charger and my 2008 started great at 6 years old when I sold it. No problem with people doing it, I just haven't. My other bikes have started much harder in the Spring and have needed a charge sometimes. FJR fires up easily.

I put in Stabil.

I try to top off with non-ethanol gas if there is room in the tank.

I put plywood under the front tire (only one touching cement), although I don't think FJR tires last long enough to rot.

I wash and wax, then cover with an old bed sheet.

I put dryer sheets around the bike. Supposedly they repel mice.

 
I would recommend that you DO NOT start up the bike periodically during the winter unless you are going to ride it and allow it to get to full operating temperature. Condensation can occur inside the crank case if it is not allowed to get up to temperature to burn it off. It forms a lovely white sludge inside the engine.

Whenever I've stored the bike (rarely stored for winter; last time was because I was out of the country for 4 months), I've just topped off the tank, covered it up, and let it sit. I will usually take the bike out in winter a few times per month during winter, just because I need to get my fix. The thought of not riding for a long period of time makes my heart sad...

 
I'm storing mine in my garage, but not taking any special precautions. That's because I'll typical store it for no more than two days at a time during the winter.
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Honestly, these "winter storage" threads make me depressed. I'm serious! I'm not sure how I could cope without mototherapy six or seven days a week.

I suppose the consolation is that you guys get to ski or snowmobile without spending $1,000 in travel expenses.

 
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these "winter storage" threads make me depressed.
We call it PMS ... Parked Motorcycle Syndrome ... and it sucks!

We also have a winter IMS bike show, tech session, planning session, and various BS sessions to break the PMS symptoms.
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(Sometimes I go sit on my covered bike in my unheated (below zero) garage and make Zoom-zoom noises ... or buy cool shit for Christmas.)

 
With 86k on my FJR it is stored in a attached, but not heated, garage. I filled it up with non-ethanol fuel, add stabilizer, change the engine and fork oils and it stays on a battery tender 24x7. Fires right up, no problem.

 
I store my rides in a heated shop and do the standard stuff. I like to put each bike up on the lift and do all the maintenance that is likely to be due in the next year. I dont want to have to do anything but oil and tire changes during the riding season. That being said, I think cold storage has its advantages. When I lived in Fairbanks there were many people who stored bikes outside. Put a full charge on the battery, throw a tarp over the bike and walk away. It is not uncommon for the temperature to stay below zero for several weeks at a time and below freezing for months at a time. We had one stretch of 40 days in which the high temperature was -22 degrees. The cold seems to put the bike in a state of suspended animation and a well charged battery will do just fine at temperatures well below-60.

 
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