Wiring Farkles 101 - how to hook it all up

[colin]

Dudes.

I am a bit of a electronic *****. Looking to see what others have done for installations of some very common components. I've done a handful of searches on various components, some pretty useful stuff, but for wiring detail I can't get it all together.

I've got an order coming in from Jeff at Bike effects with some stuff. I've picked up others elsewhere locally. Some i haven't got yet....

From the beginning....

- Fusebox. I don't have one, I think I may buy one. Where do you put it? I read some in the front, others in the rear? How do you then run the leads up to power things up front? Would love to see some pics. I've seen FJRTech.com, can't find it all there, but it is quite useful for manythings.,

- Starcom. Looking to put this under the driver seat, taking up where the toolkit goes. I'm getting the digital. I think this is best for close-ness to helmet connections (passenger & me)

- Radios. I think I'll just power off the batteries, Motorola Talkabouts. But it needs to plug into the starcom. How do folks take care of this?

- Zumo. Up front. Want to run stereo back to starcom. Standard cables OK? How do you run it back? No worries about heat?

- Other - Ciggy lighter I have now up front, connected to headlight. Perhaps I'll change this. I use it mostly to power a little transmitter for paying tolls here. Kinda like EZpass, but needs to be powered. sometimes i'll attach an iPod charger or phone charger as well.

Sorry for the newbie questions.... really hoping to get some good pics. Apologies if such a repeat of a previous post I haven't found.....

cheers,

-colin

 

[Warchild]

Here is how it is done:

Wiring Farkles 101 - Brian Roberts

 

[Old Michael]

Eureka! Most excellent.

Thank you!

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Definitely will add that one to the list. Thanks.

This reminds me of a question I have.

When is soldering a bad idea?

The way I understand it, electricity doesn't "flow" down the inside of a wire. Electrons travel along the outside of the wire, a phenomenon called "skin effect". This is why stranded wire is rated for a higher amperage than the solid wire of the same size. So if all of those electrons are happily traveling down the outsides of the many strands aren't they forced to the outside of the solder diameter? Doesn't that create resistance?

I did several Google searches, and now I'm wondering if this is just an AC thing.

Anyway, can anyone offer a simple rule of thumb when soldering is a bad idea?

 

[jekirby]

Anyway, can anyone offer a simple rule of thumb when soldering is a bad idea?

As opposed to what? Crimp connectors? I do not know the answer and will be interested to see what answer you get here, but I have always soldered instead of crimps. As I see it, only from hillbilly logic, crimps can add the possibility for resistance in the form of inferior connections thus inviting corrosion. I am going to watch with interest.

 

[TriggerT]

GREAT timing on this thread. I am trying to add a few things, and I too am an electronics *****. Aw hell, I'm just an ***** period, but I don't know squat about automotive electronics.

Thanks for the great info!

 

[OhioFJR1300]

Definitely will add that one to the list. Thanks.
This reminds me of a question I have.

When is soldering a bad idea?

The way I understand it, electricity doesn't "flow" down the inside of a wire. Electrons travel along the outside of the wire, a phenomenon called "skin effect". This is why stranded wire is rated for a higher amperage than the solid wire of the same size. So if all of those electrons are happily traveling down the outsides of the many strands aren't they forced to the outside of the solder diameter? Doesn't that create resistance?

I did several Google searches, and now I'm wondering if this is just an AC thing.

Anyway, can anyone offer a simple rule of thumb when soldering is a bad idea?

The skin effect is the tendency of an alternating electric current (AC) to distribute itself within a conductor so that the current density near the surface of the conductor is greater than that at its core. That is, the electric current tends to flow at the "skin" of the conductor. The skin effect causes the effective resistance of the conductor to increase with the frequency of the current. Skin effect is due to eddy currents set up by the AC current. So since you bike is DC this does not apply.

The only time I would say that soldering is not the best way to go would be if the heat needed to do it would cause some damage to the device being soldered to or the surrounding area. Soldering is a very good connection and offers as little resistance as any connection. Any splice / connection is a wire will add some resistance, usually nt enough to worry about. As for crimp connections, they are as good as any other connection depending on how they are done. You do not see any solder connections on the 23,000 volt power lines used to feed power at substations, they use crimp connections, so if soldering was better, they would be soldered. As far as wiring on you bike, any connection that is done well, will work. A bad solder connection is not going to be a good connection. Also, a soldered connection can be more likely to fatigue and fail on something that moves a lot, like a motorcycle. You do not see any factory solder connections on cars or bikes, that is because the crimp style connections have proven to be as good or better. Use what works for you and is the easiest to apply to your situation.

Hope this helps.

 

[Old Michael]

When is soldering a bad idea?

Anyway, can anyone offer a simple rule of thumb when soldering is a bad idea?

The skin effect is the ... So since your bike is DC this does not apply....

.... You do not see any factory solder connections on cars or bikes, that is because the crimp style connections have proven to be as good or better. Use what works for you and is the easiest to apply to your situation. ....

Hope this helps.

Yes, it DOES help. Thanks Ohio, and thanks for asking Joe.

 

[slapnpop]

The only time I would say that soldering is not the best way to go would be if the heat needed to do it would cause some damage to the device being soldered to or the surrounding area.

There are a couple of other occations:

1. when operating temp of installed component is above solder melt point (isn't an issue in bike wiring usually)

2. the the joint will be subject to excess vibration/movement

The second is a bigger possibility on the bike. The solder acts to solidify what is normally a flexible object, and leaves a defined hard transition between flexible and rigid. The joint is likely to fail because the wire breaks right at the edge of the solder, where the solder itself never failed.

While crimp connectors do hold the joint rigid, it doesn't wick in between the strands of the wire and cause the wire itself to become rigid. You can also protect against the problem by shrink wrapping and properly harnessing/affixing wire runs.

 

[TriggerT]

OK, a FJR specific question. I am putting a Datel voltmeter on my bike, and I am wondering what you guys tied into ( AND WHERE, AND HOW) to power a Datel. the draw is next to nothing, but if I understand things correctly, I want to tie into one of the higher volt items, to make sure I am getting a full and accurate reading. FYI, I will be putting the Datel in the "D" panel, since it is a Gen 2 bike, and I already have the switch for my heat troller in the knock out on the left side of the bike.

 

[OhioFJR1300]

OK, a FJR specific question. I am putting a Datel voltmeter on my bike, and I am wondering what you guys tied into ( AND WHERE, AND HOW) to power a Datel. the draw is next to nothing, but if I understand things correctly, I want to tie into one of the higher volt items, to make sure I am getting a full and accurate reading. FYI, I will be putting the Datel in the "D" panel, since it is a Gen 2 bike, and I already have the switch for my heat troller in the knock out on the left side of the bike.

Just tie it into any thing that is hot with the key on. I think I used a horn hot wire to tap mine into.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Thanks guys. I've been wondering about that solder vs. crimp thing for years.

-Joe

 

[TriggerT]

OK, a FJR specific question. I am putting a Datel voltmeter on my bike, and I am wondering what you guys tied into ( AND WHERE, AND HOW) to power a Datel. the draw is next to nothing, but if I understand things correctly, I want to tie into one of the higher volt items, to make sure I am getting a full and accurate reading. FYI, I will be putting the Datel in the "D" panel, since it is a Gen 2 bike, and I already have the switch for my heat troller in the knock out on the left side of the bike.

Just tie it into any thing that is hot with the key on. I think I used a horn hot wire to tap mine into.

Got it. Will do. Thanks!

 

[colin]

Here is how it is done:

Wiring Farkles 101 - Brian Roberts

thanks chief. that looks pretty sold. The cohiba cigar ashtray is pretty sweet.

I'm gonna have a read through.

Would be neat to see some pics of installed stuff on the FJR. I've seen them in the past (like, way past). Searching is a bit tough to narrow things down....

thanks all.....

 

[Harald]

Thanks guys. I've been wondering about that solder vs. crimp thing for years.-Joe

Just another confirmation on the reliability of crimped connections;

I've been working on commercial aircraft electrical/electronics for 25 years and virtually all connections in aircraft wiring are crimped. The black boxes have lots of soldered connections inside, but virtually all those miles of wire in the fuselage are crimp connected. And these connections survive wide temperature extremes and high vibration.