Wrist pain after 3 hours

[infrared]

ecc1124,
Just for clarity, I think that the best remedy for wrist pain will be a comfortable set of conventional 7/8" (22mm) handlebars.
The handlebar aftermarket provides for a wide range of sweep, height, angles, wingspan, pullback, et c. For the Gen2, all FJR handlebar switches and controls will fit on a regular 7/8" (22mm) handlebar.
If the Gen3 has the same size handlebar diameter as the Gen2, then the same will apply to your bike.
New handlebars and the adapters (steel standoffs) on the stock top fork clamp can be had in the range of US$ 100.00 (plus labor) although you can spend far more. You may need to unclip and re-route some lines and cables to the new handlebars. If you go beyond these limits, you may need extensions for those lines.
IMHO, the angle plates and riser blocks for the FJR handlebars are far too limited in the results possible, and their prices can be insane. Bad guesses can get expensive fast, if these plates and blocks do not work out right for you.
Most motorcycle shops will let you "test fit" new handlebars outside on your bike (no tools allowed), one handlebar at a time.
Conventional handlebars will also reduce engine vibrations at the hands and arms.

 

[ecc1124]

ecc1124,
Just for clarity, I think that the best remedy for wrist pain will be a comfortable set of conventional 7/8" (22mm) handlebars.
The handlebar aftermarket provides for a wide range of sweep, height, angles, wingspan, pullback, et c. For the Gen2, all FJR handlebar switches and controls will fit on a regular 7/8" (22mm) handlebar.
If the Gen3 has the same size handlebar diameter as the Gen2, then the same will apply to your bike.
New handlebars and the adapters (steel standoffs) on the stock top fork clamp can be had in the range of US$ 100.00 (plus labor) although you can spend far more. You may need to unclip and re-route some lines and cables to the new handlebars. If you go beyond these limits, you may need extensions for those lines.
IMHO, the angle plates and riser blocks for the FJR handlebars are far too limited in the results possible, and their prices can be insane. Bad guesses can get expensive fast, if these plates and blocks do not work out right for you.
Most motorcycle shops will let you "test fit" new handlebars outside on your bike (no tools allowed), one handlebar at a time.
Conventional handlebars will also reduce engine vibrations at the hands and arms.

Thanks for the input. I will look into that possibility. I know I changed the handlebars on my Vmax to "Superbars" and that made a major improvement.

 

[user 90243]

Give yourself more time in the saddle. You're using a whole new set of muscles moving from a cruiser to FJR. Personally, I don't care for the MV or Heli risers as they cant me too upright. With a stock clamp and bars in rear position, the slight forward lean takes pressure off my a$$ and is more comfortable. I've got a Laam seat as well.

Give yourself some miles & time and then figure out what works for YOU!

Good luck.

~G

Ibuprofen. Then ride ride ride.

 

[graytaz]

Far better off to have some more "reach" and lean forward from your hips. As said, keep the weight off the hands and support yourself with core and thigh muscles.

What he said. You need to get a lot more miles on the bike before you go experimenting with bars and such. You have some bar and seat adjustments already available to you. Try them as you work on improving your riding position. The FJR seating position is so significantly different from a cruiser and getting that right will make a major difference on your wrists. JMHO.

 

[ecc1124]

What he said. You need to get a lot more miles on the bike before you go experimenting with bars and such. You have some bar and seat adjustments already available to you. Try them as you work on improving your riding position. The FJR seating position is so significantly different from a cruiser and getting that right will make a major difference on your wrists. JMHO.

Agreed. I have the low setting on the soft version OEM Yamaha touring seat.

 

[John Scottorn]

No direct advice from me to solve your problem but there are some excellent suggestions so far and i'm watching the post with interest.

I've experimented a little and found initially that it was my right hand on the throttle was giving me wrist ache possibly due to the fairly stiff return spring on my Gen2 although my Gen1 was similar.
Your problems must be due to a change in position from your previous bike and so it would be very interesting to do a direct comparison between the physical differences between the two bikes.
e.g. relative height of seat to height of bars and to feet.
Distance forward or back from seat to bars.
The ergonomics of bikes can vary and just a small difference of measurement could make a big difference over a few hours of riding.
The angle that the bars sit at when looking down on them from above and the angle they either hang up or down when viewed from directly behind may be important.
The width of you grips left side to right compared to your previous bike may also make a difference.

Good luck
John

 

[ecc1124]

No direct advice to your solve your problem but some excellent suggestions so far and i'm watching the post with interest.

I've experimented a little and found initially that it was my right hand on the throttle was giving me wrist ache possibly due to the fairly stiff return spring on my Gen2 although my Gen1 was similar.
Your problems must be due to a change in position and so it would be very interesting to do a direct comparison between the physical differences between the two bikes.
e.g. relative height of seat to height of bars and to seat.
Distance forward or back of seat from feet and to bars.
The ergonomics of bikes can vary and just a small difference of measurement will make a difference over a few hours of riding.
The angle that the bars sit at when looking down on them from above and the angle they either hang up or down when viewed from directly behind may be important.
The width of you grips compared to your previous bike may also make a difference.

Good luck
John

Now this is very smart! I will try this scientific experiment once I get my fuse block, horns and ST2 buttoned up. Thank you for the input and everyone else contributing!

 

[Halr]

If you want some "expert" advise from this group, have someone take a picture of you on the bike, hands in your current riding position, feet up on the front pegs(center stand). Take the picture from the side about shoulder high. Make sure you are extending your hands/fingers over the levers to simulate where they are positioned when actually grabbing them to clutch/brake.
I'm sure you are bound to get a lot more insightful knowledge when we can actually see the current setup!

 

[ecc1124]

Yes and I was even thinking about using a lazer level.

 

[infrared]

Yes and I was even thinking about using a lazer level.

ecct1124,

Most cell phones have an app available which includes a bubble level that reads out in degrees.
Army Knife (multi-function app) is free and non-snoopy for Android phones, from GooglePlay.

 

[wfooshee]

Master Yoda works!!!

My own self-test is to let go of the bars momentarily every so often. If I have to shift my weight to do so, then I'm not sitting correctly.

 

[Cycle]

Let us know what ends up working. I guess I'm getting older and dont see fistfulls of ibuprofen as a constant solution anymore.

 

[ecc1124]

Will do. I think the bars are swept back too far and need to straighten out. Been battling a virus for past week - very weak now.

 

[art miller]

This is an interesting discussion. I have had three FJR's, the first was stock and it took many niles to get comfortable transitioned from a cruiser. I read an article in one of the motorcycle magazines about proper siting position on a motorcycle. In short, it said there should be no weight resting on the bars. Slight forward lean with pressure on the foot pegs will take the pressure off the grips. Proper seat level and comfort will make your posture more correct. I have adopted this method and have had no issues with stock FJR bars, Laam seat and vibranator bar ends.

 

[ecc1124]

Vibranator bar ends?

 

[Inlaw1]

Vibranator bar ends?

Yea, but they take batteries.

 

[RedRiderMN]

Let us know what ends up working. I guess I'm getting older and don't see fist fulls of ibuprofen as a constant solution anymore.

Since I want to protect my liver, whenever I am taking Ibuprofen, I also like to take some Milk Thistle.

 

[art miller]

Vibranator bar ends?

Did a web check and the outfit is no longer in business. There are other manufacturers of similar bar ends. None require batteries!!

 

[Biker trash]

Cramp buster did the trick for me. You can get one for each side if needed

 

[Biker trash]

Cramp buster did the trick for me. You can get one for each side if needed
View attachment 6564

Only about $5 each