YCC-S SH___46 code, related to high altitude ECU swap?

[NC Ryder]

I've got a 2006AE w/ a Power Commander III (installed by previous owner), 20k miles. Clutch soak completed 8 months ago.

Recently (past 2 months), because I will be moving to Colorado (8-9k altitude), I had the recall done to replace the ECU with the one for high altitude. However these issues occured at less than 1-2k elevation.

I'm experiencing the almost identical symptoms to this:
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115333

In essence standard riding / acceleration I have no issues whatsoever in any gear, even after the ECU swap. However (and I haven't done this in a while admittedly) I had to really get on to the throttle while in 5th to pass a semi. The engine increased the RPMS until around 6k and then it felt like the clutch partially disengaged and the RPMS quickly spun up to 8-10k. The SH 46 code came on, the bike would no longer shift, and I had to pull to the side where it stalled out. Upon restart there were no codes and 'normal' riding was fine.

I then did some testing. Standard / moderate roll on off the throttle allowed RPMs to run into the 8-10k range without any error messages. Doing a full throttle twist (in any gear) caused the original issue.

So the question, given I've done the clutch soak and normal riding isn't having an issue, is:
1) Is the new ECU and a dealer issue?
2) Is the clutch starting to go bad? How long should one last? Maybe I screwed something up in the clutch soak?
3) Is it the Gear position sensor?
4) Maybe the new ECU and the PCIII don't play well together? I haven't had time to pull the tank to disconnect the PC3 so this is a random hypothesis.

5) Something else?

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

 

[yamafitter]

The Sh__46 error code means that the gear position sensor signal and the engine speed do not match while the bike is ridden. It is probably meant for over rev protection. To reset the error code requires that you turn the key to OFF. The redline on the bike is set to 9K rpm approximately. Remember that the tach movement may not be keeping up with the actual revs being picked up by the sensor where the ECU is actually reading the pulse signal from the sensor and is seeing a more accurate reading.

I'm not sure what the fix is other than not to rev the snot out of it.

 

[phroenips]

Warning: seemingly strange question ahead

Did you also have new tires put on? I know of a guy who had new tires installed by the dealer, and they forgot to put the ABS sensor back in.

 

[HJHFJR]

Based on the FSM to correct the problem execute the diagnostic mode Code Shift 65 which confirms or rewrites a value for each gear from the gear position sensor to the EEPROM. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?

 

[mcatrophy]

...I had to really get on to the throttle while in 5th to pass a semi. The engine increased the RPMS until around 6k and then it felt like the clutch partially disengaged and the RPMS quickly spun up to 8-10k. The SH 46 code came on, the bike would no longer shift, and I had to pull to the side where it stalled out.

The Sh__46 error code means that the gear position sensor signal and the engine speed do not match while the bike is ridden.

Sounds to me like you are getting classic clutch slip. Nothing to do with the ECU (other than monitoring the shaft speeds, so giving the error).

Not te ABS sensor (that would give more obvious indications), and not the new tyre.

Classic question: Have you used engine oil with a friction modifier (car oil not M/C oil)?

 

[rbentnail]

The Sh__46 error code means that the gear position sensor signal and the engine speed do not match while the bike is ridden.

...Classic question: Have you used engine oil with a friction modifier (car oil not M/C oil)?

That was gonna be my stoopit question of the day. I've had bikes that hated (as in clutch slip) oils that other bikes like. Had an oil change lately? What was put in? What were the clutch plates soaked in? Quick, easy and cheap is to try another brand/weight.

 

[RossKean]

Yep, clutch slip. Other than the possible use of the wrong oil at some stage, it might be worth checking to see that everything was assembled correctly when you did the clutch soak. You hardly ever hear about a worn-out clutch except in cases of extreme abuse.

Ross

 

[NC Ryder]

SOrry about the late replies, my notification opions got all screwy and I didn't get an email. Thanks for the inputs, here are what I have.

Warning: seemingly strange question ahead Did you also have new tires put on? I know of a guy who had new tires installed by the dealer, and they forgot to put the ABS sensor back in.

No, tires have been on for over a year now.

Based on the FSM to correct the problem execute the diagnostic mode Code Shift 65 which confirms or rewrites a value for each gear from the gear position sensor to the EEPROM. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?

I don't, I need to get one, I know.... I'll see if I can find one this week.

Sounds to me like you are getting classic clutch slip. Nothing to do with the ECU (other than monitoring the shaft speeds, so giving the error).
Not te ABS sensor (that would give more obvious indications), and not the new tyre.

Classic question: Have you used engine oil with a friction modifier (car oil not M/C oil)?

I have never used a specific MC oil on the bike, its from the same place I get the oil for the car just the proper 'weight'. In regards to the friction modifier I can't say, only that I don't buy high end oils (what I got was probably an Autozone branded one)

That was gonna be my stoopit question of the day. I've had bikes that hated (as in clutch slip) oils that other bikes like. Had an oil change lately? What was put in? What were the clutch plates soaked in? Quick, easy and cheap is to try another brand/weight.

Did an oil change just prior to this trip actually. It would have been an Autozone branded one of the proper weight. Clutch plates, when I soaked them, were in the same type of oil. As an aside, after 1k miles I was still able to reproduce the issue.

Yep, clutch slip. Other than the possible use of the wrong oil at some stage, it might be worth checking to see that everything was assembled correctly when you did the clutch soak. You hardly ever hear about a worn-out clutch except in cases of extreme abuse.

Ross

Basic question: If the clutch seems to be shifting fine under normal driving conditions, wouldn't that mean the clutch was reassembled correctly? Or is it possible the issue from an incorrect assembly only show itself under high rev conditions?

In general am I right that it sounds like it may be the oil that I used? What's a recommendation on the brand / type / weight to use on my next oil change? If that doesn't fix it, can I simply do another cluch soak in this new oil or do I now have to specially clean the old oil off the clutch plates prior?

Thanks!

 

[petey]

What do you consider proper wheight of Autozone branded oil ?

 

[RossKean]

I don't want to turn this into an oil thread!! Do some reading - especially in the NEPRT section. Stay away from (most) automobile-specific oils since they contain friction modifiers that can damage a wet clutch. Go with a motorcycle-specific oil in the weight range recommended in your manual.

Alternatively,many people (myself included) have had pretty good success with Shell Rotella (diesel) oil in either a synthetic or conventional form. The Rotella does not contain additives that will give you problems and is cheaper than MC oil.

If due to the oil, the damage might have been done and you may be faced with replacing the fibre disks. (I would try new oil first) Still a possibility of an assembly issue but given your choice in lubricants, I suspect that's the problem.

Ross

 

[Chiefblueman]

You don't want to see "energy conserving" in the API circle on the back of the bottle. A JASO MA or ISO-L-EMA rating indicates wet clutch use. Hope an oil change works for you, you should get way more than 20k mi from your clutch.

 

[NC Ryder]

Ergh.... my mistake then. I've had a number of (older) sport bikes and used automobile oil on them without issue - bad assumption on my part for my FJ. Sounds like I need to do an oil change as soon as possible before riding anymore.

Do I also need redo the clutch soak (wiping the plates as clean as I can prior to the soak) in the new oil?

 

[NC Ryder]

What do you consider proper wheight of Autozone branded oil ?

I believe it was a 5W 30 if memory serves.

I'm assuming this kind of oil (for a wet clutch) isn't at my friendly neighborhood Autozone - where's the easiest places to find it local from what folks experiences?

 

[Chiefblueman]

Shell Rotella as mentioned by RossKean is available at Wal Mart and most auto parts outlets. I use Amsoil, got it at Napa Auto Parts. I'd sure give an oil and filter change a try before I took the clutch apart.

 

[mcatrophy]

...

Do I also need redo the clutch soak (wiping the plates as clean as I can prior to the soak) in the new oil?

IMHO yes. I would go so far as to use something to get rid of the oil as much as possible, possibly a good wipe with a petrol (gas) soaked rag until both the friction and the metal plates look dry, then soak them in a motorcycle-specific oil.

Without that cleaning, it could take many miles for the plates to get the new oil on them, we know the plates are not well lubricated at all.

 

[NC Ryder]

Without that cleaning, it could take many miles for the plates to get the new oil on them, we know the plates are not well lubricated at all.

Was thinking about that last night, and how dry the plates were at 15k prior to the clutch soak (no new oil getting in there) ..... As much as I hate to do that again if it possibly saves the clutch it is probably worth the time. Will tear back into it this coming weekend and give it another try.

Thanks for the guidance and tips, will advise on what I find in a week or so.

 

[Donal]

The 'standard' treatment for oil contaminated 'dry' clutch plates was to soak them in petrol and set fire to them. The heat brought the contaminants to the surface and the flame 'removed' them. Not that I am recommending this mind you.

I would go with the choir initially and just change the oil. Give it a spin and if that works - buy yourself a lottery ticket.

If it doesn't work then it's a as recommended by mcatrophy. YMMV

Don

 

[Big Sky]

Remember too, automotive oils are designed to lubricate the engine, whereas motorcycle oils are designed to lubricate the engine AND transmission where much greater load forces are in play and a higher resistance to oil shearing is required.

 

[NC Ryder]

Allright..... Picked up some 15/40 Shell Rotella (closest match I could find to the 20/40 Yammy recommendation), drained the existing oil, and pulled the clutch. I don't have a point of reference if the clutch is bad by looking at it, wanted some thoughts from the community with experience. When I was cleaning them the friction disks all still had 'raised' friction plates and all the plates in general looked similar to the first clutch soak I did 8 mos back. I've attached picures of when I initially pulled them (pre-clean) and the after I cleaned them in case that helps.

Right now I'm going on the assumption the plates are still good and the friction plates (as well as the separator plates) are now in a Rotella bath until tomorrow. Please let me know if anything looks / sounds amiss, thanks

Pre-clean

Post Clean