grumpypoos Gen 1 transmission repair

Hi internet!

I will go ahead and start this thread and update as we go along.

Back story:
I bought the back in November of 2015. I was very happy with my purchase (at first), but during day one I noticed odd behavior from the transmission (IE very clunky popping out of gear etc). My battery also died within 4 hours of taking ownership of the bike (also the key was fubared). I went to the dealership the next day and informed them what all was going on. After much going back and forth they replaced my battery for free (how sweet of them!). They told me it was probably my misshifting causing these issues with the transmission and they would gladly sell me a replacement key (should've known right there they were shady as ****). So as time progresses I try to alter my shift behavior. I determined very quickly the problem does not lay with me, but the transmission. The damn oil plug was beyond loose and fell out while riding (thankfully at a gas station and another bike noticed I had oil coming out). I decided to look at other things on the bike at this point, because if the transmission is blown and these great techs can't even tighten an oil drain bolt wtf else is wrong. Things I checked and what was the outcome.

1. Air filter - Looked like someone dipped it into oil
2. Spark plugs - 1,2,4 looked worn beyond all, but good shape.. 3 destroyed covered in what I believe was oil
3. Hoses - They looked ok for being 11 years old
4. Various minor things I could see - Nothing major and no cause for concern

Hrm I thought to myself. I just performed a very BASIC glance over of the bike. I immediately replaced these items and informed the dealer. Their response? "We don't look at those unless the maintenance schedule calls for it!" I informed the maintenance schedule ALWAYS calls to check these things. Then they said "Well if we do all of that we are too invested into the bike and wont be able to sell it for a good deal". Hrm checked basic **** would raise the bike over ~2K? Interesting (sign number 2 they are shady).

So time progresses and the transmission gets worse. I decided to join this forum and ask everyone about some of the issues I was having. Then I posted that dreadful thread "Possible transmission problems or?"

I quickly learnt it was likely the gear dogs and shift forks (****). So I call up the dealership and let them know what's happening. They of course BEG me to bring the bike in. After much deliberation I decide **** it. I take it in. Well yesterday (February 11th 2016) I get a call. "Nathan, Your bike is fine. 4 techs rode it and said nothing of concern was happening. No popping out of gear etc". Hrm? I decided to run up there and see for myself (I tried to convince myself they were right, but my gut knew better). I get up there hop on it and leave the parking light. Before I even get past the dealer I shift into second and hammer the throttle. Right into neutral this time (Wtf it didn't used to do this). I turned around pissed off and went back. Told him what was happening. His suggestion was to bring the bike home and give it a good nights rest. **** that.

I bought a transmission instead

So I will be fixing this myself! YAY!

Please stay tuned on this thread, because I will making a step by step guide on this exact issue (Loads of good threads with GREAT information, but I want a step by step for my own future reference).

Stuff I have bought so far...

1. '06 '08 complete transmission - $124.97 shipped - eBay
2. Crank Stretch bolts (P/N: 90119-09001-00 - THANK YOU wfooshee!) - $46.25 shipped (It was really $37.30 or $3.73 a piece, but I opted for UPS Ground, because MUH BOLTS) - https://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/outboard/Y-90119-09001-00.html
3. Yamalube Yamabond 4 - $24.90 shipped (I got 6 oz of this stuff just in case || $8.45 per 3 ounces). - https://www.motosport.com/yamalube-yamabond-4
4. Angle Gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0172I7UBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) - $9.99 & Red loctite 6ml (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028OJAIY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)- $7.70 | Order total: $25.18 shipped (bought on Amazon so grouped).

5. Service Manual - $26.03 shipped (THANK YOU SacramentoMike) - Everybody give him a big pat on the back! (Always check the forum. The forum is your friend)

6. Washer lock nut - $6.77 shipped (Would've went through partzilla, but dat shipping cost put me at $10 went through amazon instead) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C591TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) - Only bought in case I lose the other one and or break it

7. Metric feeler gauge (Don't own one and need one for valve check) - $13.31 ( That shipping cost || Part is only $8.24 ) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC3VB96?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

8. Size 32 MM Impact Socket - ($14.99 without taxes) $16.23 - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/axle-spindle-nut-socket/great-neck-32-mm-axle-nut-socket/552315_0_0/?checkfit=true

9. Size 36 MM Impact Socket - ($19.99 without taxes) $21.64 - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/axle-spindle-nut-socket/oem-36-mm-axle-nut-socket/79772_0_0/?checkfit=true

10. Air compressor - (That impact doe - $59.99 without taxes) $64.94 - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-gal-13-hp-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-61615.html

11. Air compressor hose - ($12.99 without taxes) $14.06 - https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-x-50-ft-pvc-air-hose-61976.html

12. Air compressor fittings - I bought two because I wanted spares - ($5.98 without taxes) $6.47 - (not on harbor freights website for some reason, but they were $2.99 per set)

13. Clutch Boss - $40.00 shipped - eBay

14. ALL crankcase bolts (including oil pan bolts) - $22.50 shipped - eBay

15. Torque Wrench - ($21.99 without taxes) $23.80 - https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61276.html

16. 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter - ($14.99 without taxes) $16.23 - (not on harbor freights website for some reason)

Stuff to buy

1. Crank stretch bolts
2. Sealer
3. Angle gauge
4. Torque wrench
5. Size 32MM and 36MM socket
6. Red loctite (yes I know WHO DA FUQ DOESN'T HAVE DAT!?!?!?!?)
7. Service manual.
8. Oil
9. Coolant

10. Washer lock nut (P/N: 90215-25218-00)

11. Metric Feeler Gauge

12. Clutch Boss (Wouldn't have to buy this if I would've read the damn manual)

13. Stator Cover gasket (P/N: 5JW-15451-00-00)

14. Oil Pan Gasket (P/N: 5JW-13414-00-00)

15. Clutch Cover gasket (P/N: 5JW-15461-00-00)

16. Compressor

17. Compressor Hoses

18. Compressor STEEL fittings

19. Shoulder Bolts (P/N: 90109-065G3-00)

20. 3/8 Drive to 1/2 Drive adapter

21. Frame Bolt

Total days down: 59
Total cost at this time: $493.28 (Includes my own labor of an hourly rate of $0.00)
Total savings by me doing currently: $2,481.72 (This is just labor and does not include having to buy parts)
Having the job done right? Priceless

A good chunk of my cost is getting the tools to do this job, but that's ok! I need them anyway.

First step in this guide will be posted tonight or tomorrow stay tuned gentlemen!

grumpypoo said:

Stuff to buy

1. Crank stretch bolts

2. Sealer

3. Angle gauge

4. Torque wrench(es)

5. Size 30MM and 32MM socket

6. Red loctite (yes I know WHO DA FUQ DOESN'T HAVE DAT!?!?!?!?)

7. Service manual.

8. 24 pack of Bud light Green Flash West Coast IPA

9. Oil & Oil Filter

10. Coolant

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There, that's much better. Friends don't let friends drink Bud Light.

How many miles (did the dealer claim are) on the bike?

TomInPA said:

How many miles (did the dealer claim are) on the bike?

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I took ownership at 40K. I've since put 4K on it.

So i'm sitting at 44,XXX

EDIT:

They told me the previous owner was a great guy performed all service never skipped a beat. Told me he got rid of it to upgrade. No he got rid of it, because the transmission is shot.

You have oil on the air filter and oil on one spark plug? Before ripping into the transmission, it might be worth looking into that a little bit as well, since mucking around with the transmission won't matter much if there's some bizarre problem with the actual engine. It would likely be enough to replace the plugs and oil filter, then let the bike idle for a little while to see if everything stays clear. If you are running on 3-1/2 cylinders, you're going to have really unusual throttle response and perhaps some odd noises.

It might help to find another FJR rider in your area to ride your bike, just for peace of mind. I'm not saying that your complaints aren't legitimate, but another FJR rider will be able to confirm these issues easily.

audiowize said:

You have oil on the air filter and oil on one spark plug? Before ripping into the transmission, it might be worth looking into that a little bit as well, since mucking around with the transmission won't matter much if there's some bizarre problem with the actual engine. It would likely be enough to replace the plugs and oil filter, then let the bike idle for a little while to see if everything stays clear. If you are running on 3-1/2 cylinders, you're going to have really unusual throttle response and perhaps some odd noises.
It might help to find another FJR rider in your area to ride your bike, just for peace of mind. I'm not saying that your complaints aren't legitimate, but another FJR rider will be able to confirm these issues easily.

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Most certainly. I plan on looking at a lot of things with the engine out. Worse comes to worse rebuild/replace doesn't matter much to me. It'll just add more time.

EDIT:

Totally ignored most of your post.. sorry

I did replace the plugs and engine oil. Once the engine is out i'll be looking to see if it's still a problem. The air filter didn't literally have oil on it, but was extremely dark (Should've taken pictures!!")

Hey Grumpypoo. Here's my thread for the same rebuild I did back in 2013 on my 2007: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/154721-winter-project-reviving-a-wounded-fjr/ Unlike you though, I bought my FJR fully knowing the transmission was borked.

You can skip the part where I bought a replacement engine and it was an AE (it was returned). Really not a bad project, just take your time. I hope the pics I took may help.

This may be what your thinking is the issue:

Streethawk said:

Hey Grumpypoo. Here's my thread for the same rebuild I did back in 2013 on my 2007: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/154721-winter-project-reviving-a-wounded-fjr/

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Hey Streethawk! I scavenged your thread like it was gold! I wish Doug was here to help me though

Yourself, wfooshee, and ponyfool have made me feel better about tackling this inside a garage. I'm expecting a bit of downtime, but eliminating as much as I can by getting the parts I know i'll need before hand!

There's another thread worth a read before you get started, it's by 'rpgoatboy' who has done this twice! Thread here

y6

I hope you find the problems now that you're diving in.

I've been hoping it was just a shift lever in need of lube or thick boot syndrome. ?

Here we go...

I hope it goes better than the oil change.

Not sure why I put "y6" but whatever.

Got a lot done this evening.

Took off fairings, tank, fuel injector rail, air box and that's it.

Left the throttle bodies on for obvious reasons. I looked inside the intake and my god it looks brand new!!!!Seems like the engine is in good shape. I did find a leaky stator cover gasket so this will have to be bought. Lots of pics but I'm on my phone so I'll edit this later. I'll pull the motor tomorrow and that's where I'll stop until everything comes in.

Edit:

Correction cylinder three has some gunk (might explained the fouled plug). I will be treating the fuel injectors because why not? Jk they are dirty. Engine bay is filthy and the engine is as well. I tried to snap some good pics inside the intake but the damn butterflys wont get out muh way.

I'm in to deep to turn around now (mentally that is).

I have a few electrical connections some plumbing headers and a radiator to remove then I can begin the engine removal. Gentlemen I must admit it's the most mentally challenging thing I've done in a while (getting over the fear of breaking something or not being able to put it back together). One bolt at a time and one tool at a time.

wheatonFJR said:

I hope it goes better than the oil change.

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Lord me too! I can say I've had a few of "my saturday" already. Mainly involving gasoline.Tomorrow the fluids come out. I'm sure we will get grumpypoos classic mess everywhere

rushes said:

I hope you find the problems now that you're diving in. I've been hoping it was just a shift lever in need of lube or thick boot syndrome. ?Here we go... [img=[URL="https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/uchristensen/Smileys/popcorn.gif%5D"]https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/uchristensen/Smileys/popcorn.gif][/URL]

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I wish it was that easy I lubed up all the pivot points when I changed the spark plugs. Well most of them... :3

grumpypoo said:

". . . I must admit it's the most mentally challenging thing I've done in a while (getting over the fear of breaking something or not being able to put it back together). One bolt at a time and one tool at a time.

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You're a braver man than I. Watching this project with interest.

grumpypoo said:

...I looked inside the intake and my god it looks brand new!!!!...I did find a leaky stator cover gasket so this will have to be bought...cylinder three has some gunk...

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Look inside the exhaust headers, specifically #3, right where it exits the cylinder head. If you find oil in the exhaust header it is almost certain the valve stem seal is worn and leaking which would explain the oily spark plug.

A factory installed stator cover doesn't leak unless the cover was replaced (tip-over damage?). Or, unless someone replaced the OEM stater with a high output stator. If the stator windings are shades of white/brown it's OEM which starts life white. If it's shades of blue/brown it's an aftermarket stator which you would like to replace with OEM due to the short life of HO stators. Typically, it's not the stator gasket that leaks, it's the rubber plug at the top of the stator where the stator wires exit on their way to the R/R. That opening should be thoroughly cleaned and a quality engine specific RTV used to seal 'er up. If you remove the stator cover to replace the gasket you will be faced with this task anyway. Look carefully at the rubber plug and note all the groves that have to fit the cover. I would recommend that the rubber plug is RTVed a day in advance to dry and hold it in place before installing the stator cover.

Subscribed !

Good morning FJR forum!

I haven't done anything yet, but the motor will be coming out today (how exciting). Honestly at this point I'm winging it based on experience of removing car motors (get everything out duh way foo'). Maybe I will compile all my pictures into one big post? Well for motor removal then disassemble and finally reinstall.

We shall see. It's time for the frame to give birth to a beautiful baby 4 cylinder! Stay tuned gents

Geezer said:

grumpypoo said:

Stuff to buy

1. Crank stretch bolts

2. Sealer

3. Angle gauge

4. Torque wrench(es)

5. Size 30MM and 32MM socket

6. Red loctite (yes I know WHO DA FUQ DOESN'T HAVE DAT!?!?!?!?)

7. Service manual.

8. 24 pack of Bud light Green Flash West Coast IPA

9. Oil & Oil Filter

10. Coolant

Click to expand...

There, that's much better.

Friends don't let friends drink Bud Light.

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+1 on the "Friends don't let friends drink Bud Light". Green Flash is the real deal. Racer5 IPA will do the job too. I've been in several bars here on the west coast that charge more for Bud, Coors, and Miller that for craft beers. They target the Harley crowd. Those folks are generally known to pay more for less!!