grumpypoos Gen 1 transmission repair

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I think our ancient enemy the Maladroit has had his way with this bike. Wishing you the best of luck sorting it out!

Norm Kern

 
Thanks Norm Kern!

I went straight incredible hulk on the engine. My jack slid out and it started to fall so while proceeding to destory my back I moved it a few inches onto the carpet.

Lets hope I can put this **** back together ;)

 
The reason your engine mount bolt stripped is due to bi-metallic corrosion, and the best way to prevent this is to use anti-seize compound in this application. The threads were locked and the weaker aluminum gave way as the bolt was being removed.

 
The reason your engine mount bolt stripped is due to bi-metallic corrosion, and the best way to prevent this is to use anti-seize compound in this application. The threads were locked and the weaker aluminum gave way as the bolt was being removed.
Thank you for this. I'll be sure the give the bolts a good rub with anti-sieze

In the interim. Is anyone in DFW Texas that wants to assist with putting the engine back in the bike when the time comes?

 
Following up on that bolt, it's not the threads that are stripped, it's material that will be missing in the aluminum. A new bolt will go right in but not hold any torque to speak of. That bolt might require some type of thread repair kit on the engine side.

Can't wait to see the guts. I loves me some motor guts!

 
Following up on that bolt, it's not the threads that are stripped, it's material that will be missing in the aluminum. A new bolt will go right in but not hold any torque to speak of. That bolt might require some type of thread repair kit on the engine side.
Can't wait to see the guts. I loves me some motor guts!
I quickly learnt why you removed the front end. On reassembly I will be doing the same.

I will repair the thread a little bit down the line. For now my back hurts and I'm covered in gunk. :(

I too cannot wait to see the inside.

inb4 nothing is wrong and grumpypoo pulled an engine for nothing!

Jk it really is the forks but this will be the last time I do this **** so many god dang bolts. I labeled ~most

 
Yeah, I had no way to lift the frame off of the engine, so going out the front was all I could do.

As for bolts, I just put the bolts back where they came from after removing the parts. Clutch cover comes off, bolts go back in. Oil pan removed, bolts go back in. The only hard part about bolts was being sure I kept the 21 case bolts straight. The ones with four different 10mm bolts and three different 12mm bolts!

 
The reason your engine mount bolt stripped is due to bi-metallic corrosion, and the best way to prevent this is to use anti-seize compound in this application. The threads were locked and the weaker aluminum gave way as the bolt was being removed.
Thank you for this. I'll be sure the give the bolts a good rub with anti-sieze

In the interim. Is anyone in DFW Texas that wants to assist with putting the engine back in the bike when the time comes?
Just remember, the recommended torque figures are for clean dry threads.

If you lube the threads make sure you reduce the torque. I generally use 60% (multiply recommended figure by 0.6).

 
Yeah, I had no way to lift the frame off of the engine, so going out the front was all I could do.
As for bolts, I just put the bolts back where they came from after removing the parts. Clutch cover comes off, bolts go back in. Oil pan removed, bolts go back in. The only hard part about bolts was being sure I kept the 21 case bolts straight. The ones with four different 10mm bolts and three different 12mm bolts!
For things like this I get a piece of cardboard, draw a rough sketch of the part(s), and stick the bolts/screws into the cardboard. That way I know where each particular fastener goes.

 
At some intermission, you might want to contact 08FJR4ME about his WynPro block-off plates for the PAIR system. It keeps all those crappy hoses off the head and looks pretty nice. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=116612

valveshim020.jpg


 
The reason your engine mount bolt stripped is due to bi-metallic corrosion, and the best way to prevent this is to use anti-seize compound in this application. The threads were locked and the weaker aluminum gave way as the bolt was being removed.
Thank you for this. I'll be sure the give the bolts a good rub with anti-sieze

In the interim. Is anyone in DFW Texas that wants to assist with putting the engine back in the bike when the time comes?
Hey GP, let me know when you are ready to go back in with that motor. I'm on call sometimes for work, but most weekends I'm free. What part of dfw?

Motor installs.....just get er going fast enough and she'll fit right in there, guaranteed!
coolsmiley02.gif


 
Also - woke up today. My back is very pissed off at me. I'm sure the motor is happy. I was going to go over and start cleaning parts but not sure. Might be an easy Sunday for me. All my parts are scheduled to roll in next week. I'll get the main piece of this puzzle Tuesday.

How exciting! I bet she will run like brand new when I'm done.

 
Take your time, don't hurt yourself and don't rush the reassembly. Take pictures at every step of the dis-assembly in case you need a reminder about how something fits together.

 
:3

So today I will be going to be mums garage brum brum! I'm gonna clean my throttle bodies today and various engine parts. Nothing to exciting but necessary.

Pics ~soon

 
At some intermission, you might want to contact 08FJR4ME about his WynPro block-off plates for the PAIR system
Any benefit to doing this other than cleaning up things?

 

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