Audiovox Cruise install troubleshooting help.

derm75 · Jul 9, 2016

Hey all, new member here looking for advice. I have installed the Audiovox cruise control on my 2005 and it isn't working. I followed the excellent write ups of a couple members here but the cruise does not seem to engage. I have lights on the control panel, so I don't think power is the issue. I have verified vacuum with a gauge while the bike was running. I used a fuel filter as a vacuum reservoir and a PCV valve, but it doesn't appear to hold vacuum after I shut off the bike. I have tried two different valves with the same results. If the clamp the hose with a pliers and turn off the bike the vacuum holds. Regardless, my understanding is that the vacuum shouldn't cause the cruise not to work, it just makes it work more effectively on hills. Yes? My switches are set with #'s 1, 4, and 7 ON and #'s 2, 3, 5, and 6 off. What else should I check? Thanks in advance.

Jeremy

wfooshee · Jul 9, 2016

Are you road testing or running it on the centerstand? It won't work on the centerstand, speed varies too quickly and overrides the brain's limits.

Even if your reservoir doesn't hold vacuum, it has vacuum while the bike's running, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Any auxiliary brake lights? A Gen-I shouldn't need a relay or diodes in the brake light circuit, but LED auxiliary lights might add that requirement. They put a low, but non-zero, voltage on the brake light wire, and the cruise won't set with any voltage on that wire.

derm75 · Jul 9, 2016

I road tested it.

No aux brake lights.

mcatrophy · Jul 10, 2016

Have you got the vacuum valve the right way? If it has an arrow, that should point towards the engine vacuum port, or if you take it off, you should be able to suck through it from the engine side but not blow through it.

Other than that, have you gone through the test light procedure shown in the installation guide?

jayke · Jul 10, 2016

If you have no vacuum, the audiovox cruise won't work at all. You need a constant vacuum source.

Take off the fuel filter as a vacuum reservoir and a PCV valve and run a vacuum line direct from the engine to the cruise servo.

It should work now. Maybe not well but at least it should work.

derm75 · Jul 10, 2016

mcatrophy said:
Have you got the vacuum valve the right way? If it has an arrow, that should point towards the engine vacuum port, or if you take it off, you should be able to suck through it from the engine side but not blow through it.
Other than that, have you gone through the test light procedure shown in the installation guide?

Sorry, I thought I was clear. I have vacuum when the bike is running. My reservoir doesn't hold vacuum with the bike off. I would like to fix this, but I don't think it's the issue with the cruise not engaging. I have tried testing the vacuum with the valve both directions.

I received no installation guide or paperwork of any kind with my purchase. Can someone describe the test light procedure?

ionbeam · Jul 10, 2016

You can download an installation manual here. Follow the troubleshooting section, do not follow the DIP switch settings and use the ones listed here in the Forum.

The usual problem when everything in the install looks good but the cruise still doesn't set is not having 0.0 volts on the purple brake wire. Any voltage on the purple wire will cause the cruise not to set. One very common reason for voltage on the purple wire is the brake pedal slightly sticking.

derm75 · Jul 10, 2016

ionbeam said:
You can download an installation manual here. Follow the troubleshooting section, do not follow the DIP switch settings and use the ones listed here in the Forum.
The usual problem when everything in the install looks good but the cruise still doesn't set is not having 0.0 volts on the purple brake wire. Any voltage on the purple wire will cause the cruise not to set. One very common reason for voltage on the purple wire is the brake pedal slightly sticking.

Thanks for the link! Ok, I've gone through the troubleshooting, and here's what I've found:

the purple wire reads 0.1V with the pedal released. I've looked at both brakes, and the rear actually has a small amount of play before the plunger moves. The front appears to be fully extended when released.

My other discrepancy is the blue wire; it stays near 11.2V regardless of engine speed, instead if increasing with speed as the manual states it should.

Thoughts?

derm75 · Jul 10, 2016

Just found some more information here: https://www.bestbits.org/audiovox_cruise.htm regarding the diagnostic LED inside the main unit and some other wiring shoutcuts (too late for me now!).

ionbeam · Jul 10, 2016

There is a red tag on the Blue CC wire which says "Do Not Remove". If you removed the resistor covered by the red tag your CC will not work. (Yes, most of the "how to" guides say it's a diode, but it is in fact a resistor under the red label.)

The Blue CC wire should attach to either coil wire, the solid Orange or Gray/Red wires. Until the Blue wire voltage varies with engine speed the cruise will not work.

The 0.1 volts may be enough to be a problem, just for diagnostic purposes you may want to jumper it to ground. USE ALL CAUTION if you temporarily jumper the wire. When measuring the CC Purple wire be sure your meter uses the same ground as the CC to prevent false readings.

derm75 · Jul 10, 2016

ionbeam said:
There is a red tag on the Blue CC wire which says "Do Not Remove". If you removed the resistor covered by the red tag your CC will not work. (Yes, most of the "how to" guides say it's a diode, but it is in fact a resistor under the red label.)
The Blue CC wire should attach to either coil wire, the solid Orange or Gray/Red wires. Until the Blue wire voltage varies with engine speed the cruise will not work.

I did not remove the resistor.

On my 2005, the one ignition coil that I can see has a gray wire and a red/black wire. Initially I was connected to the gray wire = 11.2V constant. Switched to the red/black wire = 13.2V constant.

I can't see the other coil. I may have to take off the right side fairing to find it. According to the Haynes manual I have there will be an orange wire and a red/black wire.

ionbeam · Jul 10, 2016

derm75 said:
ionbeam said:

There is a red tag on the Blue CC wire which says "Do Not Remove". If you removed the resistor covered by the red tag your CC will not work. (Yes, most of the "how to" guides say it's a diode, but it is in fact a resistor under the red label.)
The Blue CC wire should attach to either coil wire, the solid Orange or Gray/Red wires. Until the Blue wire voltage varies with engine speed the cruise will not work.

Click to expand...

I did not remove the resistor.

On my 2005, the one ignition coil that I can see has a gray wire and a red/black wire. Initially I was connected to the gray wire = 11.2V constant. Switched to the red/black wire = 13.2V constant.

I can't see the other coil. I may have to take off the right side fairing to find it. According to the Haynes manual I have there will be an orange wire and a red/black wire.

Use only, solid Orange or Gray/Red wire for the coil signal. Word.

derm75 · Jul 10, 2016

The bike has two coils though, right? Shouldn't either work? ~~Time to remove the fairing~~. (Edit: Time to go to Home Depot for a box fan. It's 94 degrees in my garage!)

ionbeam · Jul 10, 2016

Two coils, one triggered by the Orange wire and the other by the Gray/Red wire. It doesn't matter which you tap, they both supply the AVCC with the engine rpm.

becoyote · Jul 11, 2016

Doing kind of the same thing right now. The lights flash correctly when trouble shooting.

I do have an aux LED brake light and the purple wire shows .1v I disconnected the extra brake light and still see .1v

I have a bushtec trailer harness wired in also but the trailer isn't connected.

Curious as to how adding an led light to the existing wiring could add voltage when it is downstream of the brake light switch?

eflyguy · Jul 11, 2016

If it's switched on the negative side, it might allow a tiny amount of current thru when not grounded.

derm75 · Jul 11, 2016

I'm not sure why I had 0.1V in my circuit, but I worked around it by adding a relay in the brake circuit as shown here:

https://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/cruise-control.htm

I specifically used the SPDT setup:

https://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/cruise_files/relay5_diag1.gif

So now I have the brake issue taken care of and it turns out I never had a problem with the ignition signal. The issue was me measuring the voltage with my meter in DC instead of AC! All of the other troubleshooting was in DC and I just happened to catch it in the troubleshooting guide the 100th time I read it!

So now I've solved my two issues and the cruise still doesn't work!!!!

becoyote · Jul 11, 2016

I guess I do need to read more. Why would the meter need to be set to AC?

derm75 · Jul 12, 2016

becoyote said:
I guess I do need to read more. Why would the meter need to be set to AC?

I've been thinking about this, and I haven't been able to come up with an answer.

Anyone have suggestions for anything else I can try to get my cruise working?

Audiovox Cruise install troubleshooting help.

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