Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control installation

Hello fellow FJR owners,

It was suggested that I should post my documented Audiovox Cruise Control installation on my 06’ FJR1300A under its own thread. I’ve had some requests to post the highlights and areas of interests of my install. You will see below that some areas have deviated from previous installs. I’ve made some changes to streamline and or to minimize modification to the factory stuff. I hope this will help to assist those who are interested in installing the Audiovox CCS-100.

In order to remove gas tank, you will need to remove two vent hoses on the left side.



Remove allen bolts in front of gas tank and loosen nut and thru bolt in back of gas tank. Do not remove thru bolt at this point, this will help you to tilt the tank in order for you to remove electrical connectors and fuel line. Notice the plastic fuel line safety securing piece that need to come off first before fuel line can be removed.





This is what you see with tank removed.



Remove 3 bolts and frame brace.



Remove heat shield.



Remove air valve by loosening 3 hose clamps and electrical connector.





Disconnect idle speed adjustment cable from retainer grommet located below right front frame between engine and frame.



Remove 2 bolts to the fuel system MAP sensor off the injector rail.



Disconnect electrical connector to Injectors, MAP sensor, Throttle position sensor etc… and move entire harness to left side of the bike and out of the way.



Disconnect vacuum hoses from fuel rail assembly.



Remove 2 screws and spacers securing fuel injector rail. These screws are tight, I had to use an impact driver in order not to damage them.



Remove fuel injector rail with injectors, be careful not to drop the o rings at the tips of the injectors.



Drill hole for 4 mm bolt to install on throttle pulley tang and install bolt and nut with lock tight. I used a spring loaded auto center punch to put a nice dimple onto the tang so my drill bit won’t wander. Do not use a regular center punch with a hammer here, you will bend the tang and it will not be aligned with the idle speed adjusting screw after. This is a small hole with little material to work with. You don’t want to drill off center here. Take your time, it may be helpful to have somebody hold the throttle open to a position for a straight shot with the drill.

Use a low profile button head allen bolt to avoid touching and or hanging up on the factory throttle cable, the clearance is very tight. Test this many times to be sure!!!!!!

As you can see from the pictures below, I did not use a button head allen bolt because I did not have one. Instead, I ground away a portion of a 4mm Phillips screw for this reason. You could do this as well, just be precise. FYI, Smitty has the correct bolt and he was nice enough to offer one to me but I was too impatient to take him up on it.







Prepare the servo unit for installation: (sorry I don’t have pictures for the next few steps)

1) Remove the 2 screws holding the access cover in back of the servo unit and remove cover.

2) Remove main wiring harness. Note what position it came off. Although there’s a locking tang, it does not look totally fool proof.

3) Cut off and discard the separate harness (wrapped together) grey and black wires. Only cut the wires that are wrapped together and not the bigger black wire in the main connector of the servo unit harness. This is only used for vehicles with VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Since we will be operating on engine speed only (tach signal) this will not be needed.

4) Set the 7 dip switches inside the servo unit as follows: #1, #4, #7 in ON position. #2, #3, #5, #6 in OFF position.

5) Reinstall main connector and resecure cover. Make sure wires are spread out in order to have good seal.

Fabricate vacuum canister: I used 1 ½” ABS drain pipe with end caps and a brass fitting. All available from your local Home Depot or Lowes.



Prepare storage tray for servo unit and vacuum canister: Notch the right side for the servo unit to sit properly. Drill small holes to accept tie straps to hold both units in place. Be careful here, the computer is mounted under tray. I removed the entire tray to avoid any chances of damaging computer. Secure servo unit and vacuum canister. Route the cable along left side of frame and back down center of engine toward throttle pulley.



I made a cable guide sleeve to reduce the steep angle between the end of the servo cable to the throttle pulley. I used a piece of hard plastic automotive fuel line and used a heat gun to soften it for the bend. It fitted perfectly over the metal threaded cable end.

Cut off 7 bead of the chain and attach connectors to both ends of the chain. I used a small piece of shrink tubing over the servo cable connector after crimping as an extra precaution (it’s not in this picture).

Attach cable to throttle pulley bolt by using 2 nuts with lock tight compound.

Secure cable with supplied bracket. You will need to adjust the position for best fit and cable free play after installing the injector fuel rail and other surrounding components.



Operate throttle and make sure cable/pulley combination will clear all surrounding parts without any hang ups. This is very very very important!!!!!



Control switch panel wiring and mount: Skyway’s mount looks very nice, but I decided to make one like Smitty’s. I put silicone sealer at the wiring opening first and then around the opening after it was secured to the bracket. The black and grey wires are for the back lighting of the panel, the grey wire was designed to tap into a light circuit so it would light up when lights are turned on. I tied it into the red wire which is the power feed, this will cause the panel lights to stay on at all times……no harm done and I didn’t have to cut into the factory wiring. The black wire simply gets grounded to a good ground source, I found a good place on the left side brake line bracket near the steering head. I used shrink tubing to insulate the entire harness before inserting the 4 pin terminals into the white connector.









Mount the switch panel assembly and follow factory wiring routing thru opening into front of engine compartment.







Route the green, yellow, brown, blue wires from the servo unit toward front of the bike following cable on the left side. Use wiring conduit to protect wires. The green, yellow and brown wires are cut to length and soldered back together, then the pin terminals are installed into the white connector matching colors to the control switch panel.

Power feed connection: The red wire that comes attached to the 4 pin connector with a 3 amp fuse and inline fuse holder is the power feed wire. I decided to do away with this fuse assembly and used the factory #12 fuse instead. This is for the 12 volt power adaptor located in the left compartment. I only use this for my GPS/PDA which draws very little currant so it should have no problems supporting the cruise unit as well.

I removed the fuse assembly from cruise unit, soldered a wire to length to reach #12 fuse and attached it with a scotch lock connector. This is the only scotch lock connector of the entire install. I had no choice because the length of the wiring exposed on #12 fuse was minimum. It would have been difficult to solder here. See picture.

Tach signal: I didn’t want to cut into the ignition coil primary wire so I made an adaptor harness by soldering a female and a male terminals with shrink tubing insulation. I didn’t want to chance the bike running on two cylinders if this wire were to fail.



The factory grey with red tracer wire is connected to the male terminal and the female terminal is connected to the coil. No cutting or modifications done to factory wiring. Now you can secure and tie down wiring.



Brake/tail light wiring: The purple wire from the servo unit is an important connection. It is hook in parallel to the factory yellow wire at the tail light harness located under the seat. It ground thru the brake light bulb filament when no voltage is present, in order to operate the cruise. When brakes are applied and 12 volts is present, it cancels the ground and shuts off the cruise. This is a safety feature!!!!! Make sure you make a clean and secure connection here. I soldered in this circuit and used shrink tubing to seal the connection. The red wire is hooked in parallel to the factory blue wire which is the power supply for the tail light.







Last wiring connection: The black wire with an eye bolt terminal attach from the servo unit is simply grounded to a good ground source. I used one of the seat lock latch nuts.



vacuum supply and connections: I studied the hoses and vacuum sources and decided to hook into all 4 cylinders without cutting any of the factory hoses. No harm done to have 4 intake strokes in 720 degrees of crank shaft rotation vs. 1 if its hooked into only one cylinder. This will provide a much smoother and stronger vacuum. Located on the left side of the fuel injector rail is the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) it is use to sense engine load for fuel mapping. This is an ideal source because it has to be accurate for fuel management. Simply use T fitting to hook in supplied vacuum hose to servo unit and route hose in the same path as the cable and wiring harness.



Vacuum connection at servo unit: I used a vacuum check valve from a car (Volvo) interior climate control system. But any good vacuum check valve will work. The purpose is to retain and reserve usable vacuum during up hills or acceleration when manifold vacuum would be low. This way the cruise system has instant vacuum source when it is needed. Study the configuration and notice when vacuum drops it will lock in and retain any developed vacuum. I tested this system to hold about 14” of vacuum with the engine off.





Now you are ready for reassembly. In reverse order, reinstall all parts removed. You may need to adjust the servo cable position after fuel injection rail is installed for clearance and free play. There should be a slight amount of play in the beaded chain, make sure there’s no tension.



Good luck on your install, any ideas, thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Please feel free to contact me with any questions.

Gordon,

Fellow FJR owner

Thanks Gordon. This is really a nice write up & must have taken U some time. Nothing like not having to reinvent the wheel. I'll have this along with my FJR Tech article w/me when I start mine any day now. I have all the parts ready except the controler bracket. I'm thinking of making a dual bracket to hold also my CB...Later,,,De

Gordon,

These are some of the best pictures of this farkle I have seen. Getting ready to do this myself and between this thread and all of the others I've found using the (here's a capitol idea) search function, confidence is high. Thanks.

wr

Wow, thats quite a write up there, well done.

I just want to add that when I sealed up my control pad, I also put a small bead of silicon between the cover in the front that surrounds the switches and also around the outer areas at the back of the CC mount.

I might just stay home and sub out the LA cruise installs to FJRCarShopGuy. Great write-up... Smitty :clapping:

smitty141 said:

I might just stay home and sub out the LA cruise installs to FJRCarShopGuy. Great write-up... Smitty :clapping:

Click to expand...

yeah right.

haha

Thank you all for the compliments. This forum was a great find for me. I'm amazed at the wealth of information contributed by this community, it has helped me with my project. Just spreading the wealth.

Gordon

WOW! I wan to thank you for showing me that because I was thinking about doing it myself.....you probably saved me a few hundred $$$$$ in repairs

Looks like I need to get in touch with Smitty in the future and find a good excuse to ride to Mizzou!

An excellent write up and fantastic pics as well....well done!

Perhaps the best farkle documentation I've seen. Excellent. I give you an 'A' for Attaboy! Seriously good stuff. Thank You.

Nice write up.

Who will be the first to podcast a farkle install?

Excellent write-up. Thanks for taking the time to document the process for the rest of us. I'm in the middle of my install and this is a HUGE help.

Ok, maybe I'm not quite in the middle. I got the CC kit last week and I've had the tank off for three days staring at all those hoses and wires wondering if I could actually get it all back together when I was finished. You've given me the courage I was lacking.

Dare I suggest that this write up is good enough to be pinned or go on FJRTech.com?

Barabus said:

Dare I suggest that this write up is good enough to be pinned or go on FJRTech.com?

Click to expand...

Absolutely FJRTech-worthy.... assuming my bandwidth cost can stand it.... these are some hefty-*** photos; going to have to resample them down a pinch so my circuit doesn't melt.....! :blink:

EDIT: Okay, a couple things here...

1. Not only has Gorden (FJRCarShopGuy) done a phenomenally outstanding job of documenting this install, his photos are unusually efficient for 1024x768 photos: none of the almost 40 photos used in his thread ( :blink: ) are larger than 115K in size! More than half are under 100K! Therefore even though they will be the widest photos ever used on an FJRTech article, I will use them as is, and un-resampled. Too, the nature of this farkle demands large photos to depict the finest detail possible.
   
2. For a FNG with 9 posts to his credit to date, this farkle documentation may make Gorden without equal in his contributions to the FJRForum community.
   
3. While I have not announced it publicly yet (until now), Desert Valley Powersports (formally Sunnyside, for those who have been living in a cave the last few months) will be holding TechWest 2007 on May 19th. I am so impress with Gorden's writeup, I intend to add the "FJRCarShopGuy CCS-100 Install" as one of the key seminars of the many that will be held that day!

More TechWest '07 info will be the subject of another thread. But for now, back on topic: we all should give a round of applause to FJRCarShopGuy for this OUTSTANDING writeup!

most excellent job! Thanks for sharing!

I was wanting to do my own install but wasn't sure if I could do it well. After reading thru the FJR-Tech article a few times and then this write-up a few times I think I'm ready. But I will order Skyways fine bracket first.

Thanks for all the help!

Outstanding! Nice work.

Thanks again for this outstanding post!

I have one question: when you attached the bead chain eyelet connector to the throttle pulley tang, did you tighten the two nuts enough to keep the connector in a fixed position, or did you leave a gap so that the connector can pivot freely and just rely on lock tight compound to keep the outer-most nut in place?

I ask because in the photo of that assembly it looks loose, but I realize that you probably took the photo before you actually buttoned everything up.

Forgive me if the answer is obvious. I'm just a newbie.