Hella FF50 with FuzeBlock Install Guide

I installed the Hella FF50 Driving lights with a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch. This gives me the ability to have the lights on by themselves or off completely or connected to the bright lights so when I flip on the bright the FF50s come on too. I used the FuzeBlock so I can add more accessories later.

(disclaimer – I used a couple pictures from other posts because they were either better or I forgot to take a picture of it.)

Basic Part List:

Garauld Brackets (he does great work, I have the small rack he makes too)

FuzeBlock

Hella FF50 Driving Lights

DPDT Switch and housing

30 Amp inline fuse

Wire & Connectors

Posi-Tap Connectors



Tracy Martin’s Motorcycle Electrical System Book

Patience & help

Here’s what the Garauld brackets look like:



This is the FuzeBlock www.FuzeBlocks.com : It’s really cool because you have one spot where you can wire either switched power (on when the bike is on) or always on power. It has its own relay built in.



DPDT Switch that I got from Electrical Connection (thanks to John Dumke’s install post)



I got the wire, some basic connectors, and heat shrink tubing from Wiring Products

The wire I went with was a little overkill I think. I used 12 Gauge SXL Cross-linked Automotive Wire. It’s supposed to be more heat resistant. I could have gone with a smaller gauge (the gauges get smaller as the numbers go up – 16 is smaller than 12 – like shotguns).



Here is how I did it.

After I did it all I made this Schematic (I recommend doing the schematic FIRST!)



A quick explanation of the relays used here (correct me if I’m wrong). The relays are open circuits, meaning that they interrupt the flow of current. There is a small magnet inside that when current (signal) is applied to it it closes the circuit allowing the main “pass through” current to connect to the circuit. How I interpreted this is, you can run larger amperage through the relay while using a smaller signal wire to activate the relay. Kind of like a draw-bridge operator, except the bridge is always up until some cars need to cross. This way you don’t pull too much amperage from the signal wire through the switch. Sorry if this is too basic but that’s why I wanted to post this.

I put a terminal connector on the 30Amp Fuse holder and connected it to the main power wire for the FuzeBlock. I put the 30A fuse near the battery to prevent any shorts or melted wires farther down the circuit from causing a fire or my hair to stand up. Did the same for the ground wire (minus the fuse).



I ran the wires for the FuzeBlock down the right side.



I zip tied them and tucked them in.



Connected them to the FuzeBlock. This Picture has the power for the lights and the ground wired too. It has the 10A fuse in place. The lights draw 9.17A.



I taped the back of the block just to be sure the soldering points wouldn't be exposed.



I tapped into the tail light for the signal for the relay inside the FuzeBlock. The blue wire is the running light. I used a Posi-Tap.



I pulled the power for the lights from the FuzeBlock up the left side of the bike grounded the circuit to a frame bolt back by the FuzeBlock.





I took off the mirrors and installed the brackets and lights. You have to remove panels A, B, C, & D to get at the bolts for the mirrors and run the wires around the front. I put an extra piece of rubber I cut from an inner tube between the bracket and the mirror because I was concerned about vibration. Garauld’s brackets come with a rubber mounting to put between the bike and the bracket. I glued that to the bracket. I heat shrink wrapped the wires for the lights and ran them through the vent in the front of the cowling.





I ran the wires through the front of the cowling and ran a ground wire to the negative on the battery. There is a perfect little channel in there but it requires a stiff piece of wire to help pull the wire through. I used a section of coat hanger wire.

(forgot to get a picture of it but you'll see it)

Now you’ll have all the wires over by where you put the switch. I used the grip heater spot for the switch because I don’t have grip warmers. You’ll have to open it up a little more to accommodate the bezel for the switch. Used a Dremel tool. Be careful though. It’s easy to get going with that thing.

I tapped into the wire for the high beam relay for the high beam signal side of the switch. I used the blue wire with a black line on it. Here’s where those Posi-Taps come in really handy. A multi-meter for testing voltage and current is a really useful tool and you can find them pretty cheap. The easiest way to test stuff that is plugged in is to use the probe to get at the connection from the back where the wires go into the harness. Below the HB relay is the headlight adjustment cable. That thing was designed to get in the way of everything.



What I found incredibly useful (the second time I wired this), were those little jumper cables. No more electrical tape and trying to hold wires while testing. Here I’m testing the circuit to see if I have the connection points correct.



The Hella relay has a diagram on it the shows which terminals are for the circuit and which are for the signal. 30 & 87 are for the switch part of the relay (on some relays there’s an 87a also). 85 & 86 are for the signal and ground.



The DPDT switch connections are on the Schematic. Thanks again to John Dumke’s Post. I used the high beam splice for signal to the switch for on with the HB. I tapped off the power coming from the FuzeBlock to signal the “on by themselves” and another tap to power the indicator lights on the switch. So, there are two inputs to the switch, plus the indicator light input and one out from the switch the Hella relay to trigger the lights. The power for the lights comes directly from the FuzeBlock to the Hella relay not through the switch. (I had it wired through the switch originally but it was pointed out that there might be a better way). All the components: lights, switch, and Hella relay are grounded to the battery.

Try not to make the connection wires too short in your attempt to make everything neat. I did it and it blows when you run out of connectors and try to get to Radio Shack in 10 minutes, before they close and they’re 20 minutes away. :fool:

The picture I took form John’s post (his was a better shot) shows where to put the Hella relay. It is just to the rear of the glovebox. It really is like they put that bolt there just for it.



Test everything again before you put all back together.



This time, test everything, then label the wires, then put it all back together.







:angry: DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE 30A FUSE IN THE FUSE HOLDER! You might spend an hour trying to figure out why it all doesn't work... or so I've heard.



Check out the indicator lights





Back together:





Thanks to Aaron and Erin for their help! :clapping:

I hope this helps somebody.

Thanks for the FJR Forum.

Excellent 'How To' write-up!

Well done!

Thanks 0Face.

I plan on installing my FuzeBlock shortly and your pictures and links will be very helpful.

LAroo

:clapping:

Nice write up, the details are excellent. The Fuzeblocks are back in stock and I should be getting mine shortly. Perhaps another garage day is in order.

AFCJER said:

Perhaps another garage day is in order.

Click to expand...

I'm up for it. Maybe we'll get a little better weather.

Excellent write-up, Marty. I'm installing my Fuzeblock this weekend so I have one question (for now, at least :glare: ): The way you have your Fuzeblock situated, how were you able to run (output) wires from the sides of it? I was going to install mine in the exact same spot, but I thought I'd need to raise it (with a block of wood, most likely) to be able to reach those side terminals.

RiderCoach Lar said:

I thought I'd need to raise it (with a block of wood, most likely) to be able to reach those side terminals.

Click to expand...

Nope. There is a perfect notch on either side of where I mounted it. It's as if they made that space for the fuzBlock wires.

The twisted red, black, & white wires are for the LED bar I hooked to a BackOff Module. They run through the same spot as the License plate light wires.

I'm trying to do this install and I'm an electric idiot. Can someone explain a few things?

On the wiring diagram there is a box labeled "hella ff50 driving lights" and that's what I don't understand.

1) there are two driving lights - why one box?

2) there are 6 lines going into the box - what do they represent?

a) what do the cursive l's in the circles to the right of the box mean? They are connecting to ground I see, but what are they?

I know these are stupid questions, but I just don't understand electrics at all.

Thanks for any help.

Nice diagram.

That DPDT switch is a bear to figure out. Even when I did this for a second time with Fairlaner, I think I scratched all of the hair off my head. That diagram will help.

CODan said:

I'm trying to do this install and I'm an electric idiot. Can someone explain a few things?
On the wiring diagram there is a box labeled "hella ff50 driving lights" and that's what I don't understand.

1) there are two driving lights - why one box?

2) there are 6 lines going into the box - what do they represent?

a) what do the cursive l's in the circles to the right of the box mean? They are connecting to ground I see, but what are they?

I know these are stupid questions, but I just don't understand electrics at all.

Thanks for any help.

Click to expand...

Well I am not an electrical wizard, but I think I can answer your questions.

1) Either: one box distributes power to both lights, OR: the box is just representative of dual identical hook ups.

2) There are 4 lines going IN, and two coming OUT. They will be: right + in, left + in, right - in, left - in, and two + outputs(to lamps.)

And finally:

a) The "Cursive I" is actually an "L". Short for Lamp, the + wire goes to + on lamp, and the second wire on the lamp goes to ground to complete the circuit.

Hope I'm right, and hope this helps...I'm just learning this stuff too.

Very nice write up.

I'm not sure whether to resurrect this old(ish) thread, or start a new one, so please pardon me if I took the wrong option. Firstly thanks for that schematic (and write-up) 0Face. Just what I was looking for. However, I'm having a hard time finding a DPDT switch with a warning light in this neck of the woods, so an electrical engineering friend suggested I add my own. He also suggested I add a fuse between the high beam signal wire and the DPDT switch just to play safe should something go haywire on the main beam circuit.

My requirements for the FF50s are: have the FF50s on by themselves or off completely or connected to the bright lights so when the latter come on, the FF50s come on too. The FF50s should only operate when the ignition is on. Also, have a warning light that comes on when the FF50s are in the always on position. So I've adapted OFace's diagram as follows:



Any problem anyone can see with this? My understanding of the above circuit is that I do not need a heavy duty DPDT switch for this since it will only switch a few milli-amps.

Actually, what I really want is for the always on to only be possible while the engine is running, or rather, the battery is charging. So my electrical engineering friend suggested I add a small relay between the DPDT switch and the Hella relay and use as trigger for this relay, the alternator warning light as follows:



Except of course, I don't think the FJR has an alternator warning light? Any suggestions/opinions/other ideas of how I can accomplish this?

Damn!

Fine work there buddy!

Very nice original write up by 0face and nice drawings Udjeni. Thanks for very useful information.

I have 1 small comment though:

The purpose of the negative bus on the fuzeblock is for grounding your accessories. This allows you to run +/- pairs from your accessories to the fuzeblock without the need to go elsewhere such as the frame or the battery. The grounding of this bus to the frame bolt does nothing but connect the battery ground to the said frame bolt. Seems like a waste of time/wire to do that. I you choose to wire your grounds elsewhere, there is no need to wire battery ground to Fuzeblock. Also, I've read that frame grounds on this bike are notoriously unreliable so you may want to wire back to battery ground directly if you are not using the Fuseblock grounding bus.

Udjeni said:

Actually, what I really want is for the always on to only be possible while the engine is running, or rather, the battery is charging. So my electrical engineering friend suggested I add a small relay between the DPDT switch and the Hella relay and use as trigger for this relay, the alternator warning light as follows:
Except of course, I don't think the FJR has an alternator warning light? Any suggestions/opinions/other ideas of how I can accomplish this?

Click to expand...

There are two headlight relays on all of our FJRs (applies to both first and second gens). One is the On/Off relay and the other is the High / Low beam relay.

In the below excerpt from page 2 of the 2nd gen wiring diagram, the headlights are #97 and you can see that it is relay #95 (Hi Low beam relay) that switches between the high beam filament and the low beam filament. The incoming power to the relay is the Blue/Green wire coming in the top of the relay from Connector #50 (from page 1)



Now let's take a look at where that blue green wire comes from. In the second picture below (excerpt from wiring diagram's page 1 ) you see the blue/green wire originates at relay #51 (headlight on/off relay). The power source is the red/yellow wire from fuse #54, but relay #51 is turned on and off by the yellow/white wire. You can't see it here, but that yellow/white wire is a switched ground from the ECU, and that is the signal that turns the headlights on AFTER the engine has started.



Now, notice that the blue/green wire also splits off and goes down to #57. That is the heated grip controller. So the heated grip controller only gets power when the headlight On/Off relay has been energized which is after the engine has started. The harness is wired for this whether you have the heated grips or not. You can just tap off of that wire for one of your two inputs into your DPDT switch to the FF50's and that will accomplish what you want.

FJRGuy said:

Very nice original write up by 0face and nice drawings Udjeni. Thanks for very useful information.
I have 1 small comment though:

The purpose of the negative bus on the fuzeblock is for grounding your accessories. This allows you to run +/- pairs from your accessories to the fuzeblock without the need to go elsewhere such as the frame or the battery. The grounding of this bus to the frame bolt does nothing but connect the battery ground to the said frame bolt. Seems like a waste of time/wire to do that. I you choose to wire your grounds elsewhere, there is no need to wire battery ground to Fuzeblock. Also, I've read that frame grounds on this bike are notoriously unreliable so you may want to wire back to battery ground directly if you are not using the Fuseblock grounding bus.

Click to expand...

I definitely over-grounded. No need for all that grounding. Before I attempted this I talked to a few people who told me horror stories about flaming bikes. So I think I was overly scared cautious.

I will say one thing as evident by everybody chiming in, if you (I) screw anything up there's plenty of help here.

Fred W said:

You can just tap off of that wire for one of your two inputs into your DPDT switch to the FF50's

Click to expand...

Thank you Fred W, much appreciated!

FJRGuy said:

The purpose of the negative bus on the fuzeblock is for grounding your accessories.

Click to expand...

I have been wondering about the grounding on 0Face's diagram (mine just followed his lead). My Fuzeblock has been installed for more than a year and current accessories powered from it are grounded to it. I'll have to go figure out where to position a ground bus somewhere out front that I'll then gound back at the Fuzeblock. Don't like all them "unnecessary" wires running back to the Fuzeblock.

0Face said:

I definitely over-grounded. No need for all that grounding. Before I attempted this I talked to a few people who told me horror stories about flaming bikes. So I think I was overly scared cautious.
I will say one thing as evident by everybody chiming in, if you (I) screw anything up there's plenty of help here.

Click to expand...

Actually, from what I've read about grounding to the frame, depending on where you attached all those grounds, you may have under-grounded. Now if you tied all those ground wires together and left all the grounding points... that would be over-grounded! Again, the grounding of the Fuzeblock bus to the frame does nothing for your system (as you have nothing but the battery connected to that bus) and other frame grounds may not be as robust as you think.

I'm not suggesting that you "screw[ed] anything up" as there are many ways to skin a cat. Just pointing out potential ways, IMHO, to improve the schematic.

Fred W said:

You can just tap off of that wire for one of your two inputs into your DPDT switch to the FF50's

Click to expand...

Nice solution! I think we need a Fuzeblock that would allow us to choose between always on, switched, OR 'switched when running' modes!

Udjeni said:

Thank you Fred W, much appreciated!

FJRGuy said:

The purpose of the negative bus on the fuzeblock is for grounding your accessories.

Click to expand...

I have been wondering about the grounding on 0Face's diagram (mine just followed his lead). My Fuzeblock has been installed for more than a year and current accessories powered from it are grounded to it. I'll have to go figure out where to position a ground bus somewhere out front that I'll then gound back at the Fuzeblock. Don't like all them "unnecessary" wires running back to the Fuzeblock.

Click to expand...

You've been using it as it was intended to be used. The grounding bus on the Fuzeblock is a huge convenience for devices that come with +/- pair wire. Easier to run a paired wire back to the Fuzeblock than to split the pair and run them in different directions. I don't have Aux lights yet but I think it is very common to ground lights, as they are high power and at the front of the bike, directly to the battery and just run the power from the Fuzeblock. If you are going to put a ground bus at the front, just tie it directly to battery ground. No point running an "unnecessary" wire back to the Fuzeblock!

Udjeni said:

Fred W said:

You can just tap off of that wire for one of your two inputs into your DPDT switch to the FF50's

Click to expand...

Thank you Fred W, much appreciated!

Click to expand...

No problem.

Showing the schematics were probably overkill. I could have just said "Use the Blue/Green wire that goes to the heated grip controller", but I wanted to show you how you can figure this stuff out.

Also, as a side note: The handy heated grip wiring connector is NOT present on a 1st gen, so they'll have to use the wire that goes from headlight relay #1 to headlight relay #2 , which is not nearly so conveniently located, or the switched ground signal from the ECU itself (yellow wire). That's what I did for my HID headlight relay delay module.

Udjeni said:

FJRGuy said:

The purpose of the negative bus on the fuzeblock is for grounding your accessories.

Click to expand...

I have been wondering about the grounding on 0Face's diagram (mine just followed his lead). My Fuzeblock has been installed for more than a year and current accessories powered from it are grounded to it. I'll have to go figure out where to position a ground bus somewhere out front that I'll then gound back at the Fuzeblock. Don't like all them "unnecessary" wires running back to the Fuzeblock.

Click to expand...

Which brings up a good point that I thought about when reading the OP: Why put the FuzeBlock in the rear of the bike when all the gizmos are up front? Seems like a lot of back and forth wiring to get it back there, unless you are mounting a lot of electronic stuff back there or under the seat. I bought one of these things this winter and have yet to figure out where exactly I want to mount it.