Audiovox CCS100 Poll - The First!! (but not final!!)

I was saved today from voting No by the wisdom of the collective. I installed a CCS100 almost 2 years ago and couldn't get it to engage. I spent so many hours on the install and troubleshooting that I didn't have the heart to rip it off and toss it. That's a good thing, because I just read in this thread (or someplace that led from here) that a Back-Off unit will cause my issue exactly.

You got it, I disconnected the purple wire from my the wire coming from my rear brake switch, grounded it (the purple wire) and presto I now have a functioning CCS100!

I'll add a relay tomorrow to automatically take care of switching the ground 'on' when I'm not braking and I'll be all set.

Many thanks to everyone who participates in the forum, you're an invaluable resource.

I was looking at the cruise control info located on a link and it noted that it was not compatible with Hondas or Ford Econoline vans. Maybe they should add FJR's :angry: Wonder what the deal is with that and if it might have a bearing on our problems?

Bump. Any updates?

rfulcher said:

Bump. Any updates?

Click to expand...

Work is progressing.

Patience, Grasshopper.

Ross, PM me your phone number. Thanks

Hi folks,

Newbie here, please forgive me for being lazy! I just bought an 07 AE and am ready to do the self install on the AVCC. I want to do the under the rear fender install. Would you be so kind as to point me to the links on the install instructions for that one and the updates since so I don't have to do all the sifting. (now you see the lazyness) Hey, at least I admit it !

I really would appreciate it.

Thanks!!

Check Valve question...

With the snow melting, I am FINALLY getting around to installing the check-valve Smitty sent me like 15 years ago... (ok, a year perhaps) and I am totally drawing a blank on where he said to put it inline... His PM appears to be gone now and I've done a search and am not finding that specific info. Rather than just start cutting until I find the correct line, thought I'd ask first.

This is what the setup appears to be and I *THINK* Smitty told me to put the check valve inline between the PVC resevoir and t-intersection with the arrow of the check valve pointed toward the T intersection

AVCC ----------------------->

........................................|--------------> Throttlebody nipple

PVC reservoir ------------->

so like this?

AVCC ----------------------->

........................................|--------------> Throttlebody nipple

PVC reservoir ---CV>----->

Thanks in advance!

(edit: forum is stripping the spaces before "|----------> Throttlebody nipple" so I am using .'s to get it to the right place)

disregard. Smitty replied, and I was totally wrong.. oops..

(from Smitty)

As the check valve goes... You will wan't to point the arrow towards the engine. As long as you cut the vacuum hose on the engine side of the "t" you will be fine. You just want it to be before the servo and the vacuum can.

Finally! The weather got nice enough to get out for a run and try out the Audiovox CC on my 06FJR. IT WORKS GREAT (so far). If heat is an issue, testing it when it's 35 degrees won't be a final test, but I'm glad it works and holds the cruise at this point.

I installed my servo unit in the little space between the tranny and the rear shock and the Vac Res under the front of the gas tank. Only one Vac pickup off #1 intake going to one check valve, then the Vac Res (a pickup truck fuel filter), and off to the servo unit.

The only change I made from the norm would be the DIP swich setup. Switch #4 is OFF, Switch #5 is OFF which is for MEDIUM SENSITIVITY. I had read on another site that they had tried LOW, but MEDIUM worked better (this was an install for a Honda Valkrie). The cruise engages with authority and it seems to be holding hills very well, although finding what most would call hills is a stretch where I live!

After hearing all the horror stories about the Gen II problems, I was expecting it NOT to work. :yahoo:

Mine works perfectly.......................................................under 60 degrees.

Dusty said:

Finally! The weather got nice enough to get out for a run and try out the Audiovox CC on my 06FJR. IT WORKS GREAT (so far). If heat is an issue, testing it when it's 35 degrees won't be a final test, but I'm glad it works and holds the cruise at this point.
I installed my servo unit in the little space between the tranny and the rear shock and the Vac Res under the front of the gas tank. Only one Vac pickup off #1 intake going to one check valve, then the Vac Res (a pickup truck fuel filter), and off to the servo unit.

The only change I made from the norm would be the DIP swich setup. Switch #4 is OFF, Switch #5 is OFF which is for MEDIUM SENSITIVITY. I had read on another site that they had tried LOW, but MEDIUM worked better (this was an install for a Honda Valkrie). The cruise engages with authority and it seems to be holding hills very well, although finding what most would call hills is a stretch where I live!

After hearing all the horror stories about the Gen II problems, I was expecting it NOT to work. :yahoo:

Click to expand...

Any news?

Rls said:

Any news?

Click to expand...

Not yet.

Put 15k on one. Self-installed on an '05. No trouble whatsoever. Not a simple install, but went fine do to the great instructions on this site. Did however blow an injector seal shortly after install. OOOOPS. Didn't properly lubricate and seat the seal when reassembling the fuel system. Operator error!

?

OK! I finally got mine on. I rode two nights ago and it worked. rode to and from work yesterday it works. I put on a Rifle windshield last night +4 wide and +3 tall. Threw my wife on the back of a cold Fiona, drove 1/2 mile to the turnpike entrance determined to make mine fail. drove straight up to 80 MPH indicated (74 GPS).

cruise would not engage.

So I messed around a bit. 50 mph... works 60 works 63 and above ...nothing. Threw wife to side of the road. Works at all speeds. put wife back on... fails at everything above 60. This morning it worked great again at 90 mph. all the way to work.

Load = Failure. Vaccum problem? I cant see the tach signal being the problem. Gen II throttles are harder to pull. Anyone do a comparison to working ones vs non.... with spring let loose on throttle vs not. Cable slack??

I used Audiovox Vac, can with built in "Diode" I checked it when I got to work with Manifold pressure guage. The source side varies Of course with the engine. The servo side Holds a great Vaccum 12 In. HG. I did not check this during use. But I am in process of ram mounting a dual Manifold pressure guage between my handle bars, so I can watch what happens both in and out of Vac Can. And Recording Pulse with a FLuke 123 Scopemeter to see if it goes glitchy.(it records and saves so I can look at it later) Power I got from 8 GAwire direct from the battery to Fuse/powerstrip right next to servo. so I dont see power being a problem. I didn't use any of them crimpy plastic cheap *** connector splices except to the backlight on the switches.

Just what I observed. I saw the tread about possible fix..... moving blue wire to ecu.... I'll look into that.

Thanks again for this thread.... between all of us surely it'll get fixed.

Tim

Load=Fail is just weird. What occurs to me on that is the throttle position required to maintain the speed. Maybe the control unit has a range it won't go outside of for steady speed. Doesn't make sense operationally, but thinking on it from a controls point of view it might.

Does it engage and drop, or fail to engage at all? Also, if you set the speed while coasting (i.e. throttle closed) will it try to engage? That would point to an out-of-range type problem.

If it turns out to be something like that, how much slack is there at the bead chain on the the throttle? There should be as close to no slack at all as you can get when the throttle is closed, so the CC doesn't have to take up the slack before it gets throttle pull.

I've got an '07 with a self installed ccs-100. First trip out I noticed it dropped out a couple of times (after about 35 to 50 miles each time). I installed a relay in the braking circuit for the cruise control. When the cruise is active I have the brake sensing wire tied directly to ground through the normally closed contact. When I pull in the brakes not only does it open the ground circuit, but I tie the sensing line to 12V through the normally open contact to force the servo to disengage. I had an ST1300 with the same problem and after the relay had no more issues. So far I haven't had it drop out again, but I haven't been able to put more than 50 miles on at any one time. Hope to fix that soon. I do have a question regarding the check valve. I just used one of the old "help" check valves from AutoZone, and only one vacuum connection. I'm not having a delay in engage time, or control issues. It does seem like cheap insurance to replace the check valve with a better one though. What is the part number of the better one, and where do I get it? As for the rest of the info: I do have the updated ECU, my servo is mounted under the seat (along with the PVC pipe accumulator), all connections were soldered and shrink wrapped.

Good Riding to all,

Cheapskate2

wfooshee said:

Load=Fail is just weird. What occurs to me on that is the throttle position required to maintain the speed. Maybe the control unit has a range it won't go outside of for steady speed. Doesn't make sense operationally, but thinking on it from a controls point of view it might.
Does it engage and drop, or fail to engage at all? Also, if you set the speed while coasting (i.e. throttle closed) will it try to engage? That would point to an out-of-range type problem.

If it turns out to be something like that, how much slack is there at the bead chain on the the throttle? There should be as close to no slack at all as you can get when the throttle is closed, so the CC doesn't have to take up the slack before it gets throttle pull.

Click to expand...

I think the same about out of range .... I am going to take All the slack (almost) outa the chain. I did have fun on the way home though.

I installed a Ram Ball on an aircraft dual manifold pressure gauge onto the bike where my GPS usually is. I hooked R to the manifold and L to the servo. Watching Engine Manifold pressure change while driving and the way everything reacted with the Cruise. I am going to film it with my wife on the back just for a show... everyone will like watching what the servo vac does in relationship to "set" "resume" "hill" and "downhill". and then how the manifolds bring it all back down again. It is most definately not a Vacuum related issue. My Audiovox Vac canister is still holding vacuum and I've been home two hours.

I'll report my results again after adjusting the slack in the servo cable. Also I did not install the cable the way everyone else did with the "Tang" I may end up doing that. But, for now I am leaving it. And if UPS ever buys me a replacement camera for Crushing mine.... I'll shoot pictures.

Sounds like Rfulcher has found the fix for Gen II owners with problems. I know how frustating these problems can be and I'm sure lots of guys are very thankful for his efforts. I installed mine before the fix was found and had reservations about spending the time and money on something that wasn't a sure thing. But I really wanted a cruise on my 07 A model, so decided to go ahead with a standard tool tray installation.

Mine worked right from the start, but there was surging at slow speeds. I took up the slack in the beaded chain and also replaced the rubber hose at the cable end with a properly bent aluminum tube. Worked great around town. I didn't want to call the installation a success until I took a long trip. Last weekend I took my first long trip of 1400 miles and it worked flawlessly in temps up to 90, speeds up to 95, up and down steep hills and for long distances.

Um forgot to update.... Yes it works. Finally, thanks Rfulcher!!!!

Yep, it does seem as if rfulcher found the fix, an dI too am one happy camper. Haven't had a fail since the #& switch change. However, I wouldn't mind knowing why it worked in cool temps and not in warmer temps. What caused that?

While I'd like to know, it's not that important. What is, is.... I have a working CC!! :yahoo: