rear factory trunk

erict · Jan 18, 2006

hello all,

are there any modifications that can be made for the installation of the rear factory trunk?

i do not want to drill holes through the plastic!

Any way to match the screws used to mount the rear grab bar?

Thanks in advance

Erict

ionbeam · Jan 18, 2006

rear factory truck

Uhh, err, oh, TRUNK!!!

I believe some people have installed the trunk without drilling the holes but I wouldn't recommend it if you plan to carry a load or especially if you will be using it as a pillion backrest.

It is possible to drill the holes located properly and neatly. I picked up a couple of chromed hole plugs from a local hardware store which I used to cover the holes when I temporarily removed the trunk mounting plate. You would never see the holes with the plugs in place and they will look factory to any non-FJR people.

There is some info on the install here. I do strongly suggest using a unibit to do the drilling. I covered the approximate target area with masking tape which gave me something to mark on while aligning the drill marks and the tape helps prevent chipping when drilling. I drilled a pilot hole that both let me check alignment and made a pilot hole for the spur bit I used to drill the hole. Search this site using the term top case and trunk.

erict · Jan 18, 2006

yes, That is TRUNK!!!

I should have reviewed my message.

Thanks for the advice

Erict

FJRottie · Jan 21, 2006

I don't think there is another way to mount the Yamaha box.

The position of the two forward bolts on the rack forces you to drill.

I had no problems. Patience is the key.

This is what I did.

Tape the tail cone where you will be drilling like ionbeam said.

Mount the top box rack first to see where you will drill.

Mark the area where the two forward bolts will go.

I Used a very small drill bit first to get started (about 1/8 "). Then I moved up to 3/16"

Then I used a flashlight to look through the hole to see my positioning (as per the link provided above).

Use a Unibit, or if you don't have one, move up in drill bit sizes until you get the right size hole.

I didn't have a Unibit, and if your Unibit is too long, it will not widen the whole enough before you hit the threads where your mounting bolts will screw into.

Finish the hole with something like this,

No marks, no scratches, no problems. Use threadlocker blue on the bolts.

I have never taken the rack off, and don't see a need to.

Nobody can see under the rack anyway, but it cleans up nice.

No problems after almost two years.

Reborn Rider · Jan 21, 2006

I used a method similar to what ionbeam described and picked up 2 black plastic plugs at Lowes. As he mentioned, they look stock. It's amazing how little visual affect the holes have when covered with the plugs.

First drill a pilot hole and then work it out just large enough to thread the bolt into the frame. Put the bolt through the spacer and thread into the frame. Use a pencil and draw around the spacer. This will give you an exact marking for your final hole's outer edge. Use something similar to a unibit. I used a 5/8" countersink bit. Used carefully this worked perfectly. It allows constant alignment of the hole until reaching the maximum circumference of the bit at the pencil marking. 5/8" is the size of the spacers so it's the perfect size hole.

One word of caution. Be careful that the chuck on your drill doesn't rub the luggage rack. You may want to put something over the rack to protect it from any rub damage. I ended up with a small rub spot on one side of the rack's inner edge that I had to touch up.