Finally got up the nerve to do it...

...I actuated my ABS using my front brake. Found a deserted stretch of straight, level road. I cycled the ABS using my rear break a couple of times. Then I got going about 15-20 MPH and jammed the front. The lever vibrated just like the rear pedal does when I make the ABS work using it. The bike stayed straight and came to a quick halt! I hope I never HAVE to use the ABS, but it is nice knowing what to expect if it does occur.

ABS on my '07 saved my butt a couple years ago when an old dog wandered in front of me at the last moment south of Monterey, VA. Hit both brakes as hard as I could, half expecting the rear end to slide and all it did was slow down in a straight line unbelievably quickly. Made a believer out of me; I wouldn't want to be without it now.

Shoulda done it a long time ago!

+1 will never buy a bike without ABS on it.

Actuated the rear ABS yesterday coming home from Feeger's during a panic stop on brand new tires...Phew...I love having ABS, on previous occasions on my non-ABS SV, I have had the rear fish-tail during a panic stop...no hint of that on the ABS FJR.

SkooterG said:

Shoulda done it a long time ago!

Click to expand...

Yup! Now you have an idea as to where the braking threshold is. Evidently a LOT more braking than you originally thought.

BTW, it's a good thing that you've come to the place where you trust yourself and the bike to be able to perform this valuable learning function. I suspect you are not alone in this arena.

This serves as a reminder to me that I haven't activated mine for months and I need to take some "parking lot time" for braking and control maneuvers (figure 8s, swerving, etc.).

I try to cycle my ABS every month or so after I had to pay big bucks to have the ABS hydraulic unit replaced because it rusted open. I had not done the front before. From this point forward I will do both front and rear breaks.

I need to hit the parking lot too and do my circles, figure 8's etc. again

+1 to getting familiar with the feel of your motorcycle. The last thing you want to be doing in an emergency is doing something for the first time.

Locking up the front brake in a straight line to the point that the ABS activates should be safe but there are no guarantees in life.

You can verify that the ABS system is working, actuate the spool valves in the ABS hydraulic unit and move a tiny amount of brake fluid by using the ABS test coupler. This is good for the health of the hydraulic unit and will help prevent freezing spool valves. The ABS test coupler lives under dash Panel D, it has its own little bracket mounted to the frame to hold it and has a cap over it. Please refer to your FSM for all the details. The following is intended to give you an idea of what is involved in a basic ABS Pass/Fail test.

To oversimplify ABS activation method 1 to just test the system:

• verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
• put the bike on the center stand
• with the ignition key off, remove the cap and jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
• find a friend, offspring or wife to help, put the bike on the center stand
• simultaneously hold both the front and rear brakes on
• turn on the key
• when the ABS warning light flashes there will be one pulse felt in the front brake lever and then two pulses at the rear brake peddle
• your helper will try to rotate the rear wheel; it should rotate for 0.1 seconds then stop, then rotate again 0.1 seconds on the second pulse
• turn the ignition switch off
• remove the jumper

Congratulations, your ABS system works.

To oversimplify ABS activation method 2 to test the hydraulic system:

 

• verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
• put the bike on the center stand
• with the ignition key off jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
• turn the red Run/Stop switch to OFF
• turn the ignition key on and wait for 2 seconds
• now press and hold the Starter button for >4 seconds, the engine will not start; release the Starter button
• simultaneously operate both the front and rear brakes
• 0.5 seconds later the front brake lever will pulse twice; then the rear brake peddle will pulse twice
• turn the ignition switch off
• remove the jumper
• set the Run/Stop switch back to Run

Congratulations, your ABS hydraulic system works.

Alan, Why am I not surprised that you would be the guy who knows this? Good one. Guess I have another item on my pre-season check list. Thanks.

Gunny +1, thanks for the step by step method to test the ABS. Always appreciate your technical knowledge Alan.

--G

Yes, I much prefer ionbeam's method of exercising the front ABS pump to the Squirrel's, only because if for any reason the ABS decides not to work on that particular day, you may be picking yourself and your bike up off the ground before you ever realize, Hey, there is no pulsing in the brakes. :blink: I suppose that if you are perfectly vertical and riding in a straight line, you may feel some wheel slip (just before you get tossed). But I do not have that degree of confidence in any electromechanical device to intentionally just lock 'em up.

OTOH, testing of the rear brakes that way is no big deal at all. Sort of the same as testing it on a 4 wheeler. But if you ever do lock up that front wheel bad shit happens quickly.

Which is why, at least in my mind, ABS on the front wheel of a motorcycle is very much different than on a car. On a car, the SOP when getting into a panic stop situation is to just stomp the brakes and let the ABS take over. In the vast majority of situations the ABS will be able to stop you faster that you could otherwise. But on a car you won't be tossed down on the tarmac face first if the ABS decide to screw up. On a bike I prefer to think of the ABS as a safety net, and try to use my brake modulation skills and forward weight transfer to brake as fast as possible. I do not want to initiate an ABS event intentionally, but rather only because I've pushed the braking capabilities as far as I can already.

I was driving shortly after I got my bike and this woman driver pulled out in front of me, that's how I got to test the abs.... Saved my ass

I engaged front abs at 155 + mph at mid ohio back straight on a track day trying to catch back up to the pack I was supposed to be following. First and last time I tracked day the FJR, got an SV race bike after that.

Fred W said:

...if for any reason the ABS decides not to work on that particular day,...I suppose that if you are perfectly vertical and riding in a straight line, you may feel some wheel slip (just before you get tossed). But I do not have that degree of confidence in any electromechanical device to intentionally just lock 'em up.
But if you ever do lock up that front wheel bad shit happens quickly.

Which is why, at least in my mind, ABS on the front wheel of a motorcycle is very much different than on a car. On a car, the SOP when getting into a panic stop situation is to just stomp the brakes and let the ABS take over. ...I do not want to initiate an ABS event intentionally, but rather only because I've pushed the braking capabilities as far as I can already.

Click to expand...

Ray said:

I engaged front abs at 155 + mph at mid ohio back straight on a track day trying to catch back up to the pack I was supposed to be following.

Click to expand...

"just stomp the brakes and let the ABS take over" -- that would be the practical way of road-testing M/C ABS, too. In fact, that's the way to skid tires by using brakes (especially, M/C tires -- and, especially the rear tire...). If you 'GRAB' the front brake lever before there is any weight transfer to the front tire/road interface (the faster -- the better), it's quite easy/possible to skid the front tire. It follows, then, that rear-wheel-skids are quite easily accomplished (and are, probably, the main reason for M/C ABS...? ).

For those, few, non-ABS'rs out there -- If you ever feel the front tire slide from full-on front brake use? -- release the brake lever immediately. You can then re-apply the front brake and attempt to modulate it correctly.

charismaticmegafauna said:

..."just stomp the brakes and let the ABS take over" -- that would be the practical way of road-testing M/C ABS, too...

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If you use lock-up force to test ABS activation and your ABS works all is well. If you use lock-up force and your ABS is not working -- one way or another the next few milliseconds will determine how the rest of your day, and perhaps the rest of your life goes. The rear brake isn't much of a risk, but the front tire :shok: :fie:

charismaticmegafauna said:

If you ever feel the front tire slide from full-on front brake use? -- release the brake lever immediately. You can then re-apply the front brake and attempt to modulate it correctly.

Click to expand...

Nice idea, but the one time I locked my front wheel, the first indication I had was the feeling of my foot being hyperextended when my toe caught the pavement under the left side of the bike. I was not in a turn when I had the emergency stop, but I was on a slight crown in the road, and the front wheel went downhill (sideways to the bike.) The skid mark was only 4 feet long, at 30 miles per hour, which would be less than a tenth of a second.

ionbeam said:

charismaticmegafauna said:

..."just stomp the brakes and let the ABS take over" -- that would be the practical way of road-testing M/C ABS, too...

Click to expand...

If you use lock-up force to test ABS activation and your ABS works all is well. If you use lock-up force and your ABS is not working -- one way or another the next few milliseconds will determine how the rest of your day, and perhaps the rest of your life goes. The rear brake isn't much of a risk, but the front tire :shok: :fie:

Click to expand...

No need to fear your brakes -- they're a tool you learn to use (just like the handlebars and the throttle).

Normally (on clean, good, pavement), it's pretty hard to skid the front tire because, with the first application of brake, the inertial weight transfer starts loading the front tire. A more-likely display of excessive front brake use is a "stoppie"?

wfooshee said:

charismaticmegafauna said:

If you ever feel the front tire slide from full-on front brake use? -- release the brake lever immediately. You can then re-apply the front brake and attempt to modulate it correctly.

Click to expand...

Nice idea, but the one time I locked my front wheel, the first indication I had was the feeling of my foot being hyperextended when my toe caught the pavement under the left side of the bike. I was not in a turn when I had the emergency stop, but I was on a slight crown in the road, and the front wheel went downhill (sideways to the bike.) The skid mark was only 4 feet long, at 30 miles per hour, which would be less than a tenth of a second.

Click to expand...

I'm sure there will always be exeptions -- but, on a straight/clean/flat road (the type that's normally ridden-on) a front tire skid can be achieved (with some difficulty by GRABBING the front brake) and the tire will again acquire traction (and control) with the release of the front brake.

Of Course -- Proper Braking is defined by a controlled, progressive, squeeze of the front brake lever.

ABS has saved my butt a couple times. Twice for deer on our street. And about a month or so ago, in some slush at a light. Not going fast, but I'm sure it would have been really tricky without ABS.

Having locked up the FJ front tire, and first noticing it as my helmet was bouncing off the pavement, I'll take the ABS.

charismaticmegafauna said:

...No need to fear your brakes -- they're a tool you learn to use (just like the handlebars and the throttle).

Normally (on clean, good, pavement), it's pretty hard to skid the front tire because, with the first application of brake, the inertial weight transfer starts loading the front tire. A more-likely display of excessive front brake use is a "stoppie"?...

Click to expand...

This thread was started by a brave soul that trusted his brakes to be in good working order and activated his ABS on this good faith. His ABS worked and all was well.

If you know you don't have ABS installed or you know the ABS has failed you do indeed use your brakes as practiced and learned. When you expect ABS to kick in and it doesn't you have to first realize that the expected didn't happen, then recover from there. In drag racing they anticipate that it takes the average human 0.4 - 0.5 seconds to react after an event has been recognized (the timing tree), under a controlled setting where the event is already anticipated. A surprise is by definition unexpected, and it takes time to recognize and more to regain composure and respond. Then the road surface and tire condition have to be optimum for the rider to take advantage of his learned skills.

Boiling it down, every time someone deliberately attempts to activate the ABS their mind set must be that the ABS will fail and trust that the road surface and tire condition are optimum and their skills to respond are perfect. That is a lot of things that has to go right for the average rider to have a good outcome.

I agree that you don't have to be afraid of your brakes, but you must have the response trained until it is autonomic. If you race regularly the response should be there, if you race irregularly the response may not be there. Even with years and years of street riding the correct response may not be there. In keeping with the OP's thread, I can't say that attempting to lock the front wheel is the optimum or safest way to test the ABS.

During the time that I have owned my FJR there have been 2-3 times that I have been confronted with an emergency situation that could not be anticipated. Each time I trusted F/R ABS to be there and braked accordingly. Each time had a happy outcome. Each time was not about linear braking, but about retaining control under full braking while making minor course adjustments to avoid the situation.

After reading this thread I decided to find out if my ABS was working and found there is a very easy way to do it...just ride to a gravel road, find a short smooth section without a lot of pea gravel on top, and hit the brakes at 10 mph. My front ABS worked great, the jury is still out on the rear brake because I could not get the rear tire to lock up even when I stood on the brake...I probably have a lot of air in the line. I'm not that concerned about a weak rear brake because that is almost as good as ABS to prevent lockup but I am curious about the ABS function so I am going to bleed the lines this week.