Anyone replace frt rotors on a gen2 lately?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
...According to the 'Bin-o-facts', the 03's were 298mm, but 04 on they're 320mm. Didn't mention thickness though.
My info came from my 2004 Genuine Yamaha paper Factory Service Manual©. And, the info could still be incorrect.

So, I just took a steel rule to my '04 rotors and they are indeed 320mm in spite of what my FSM says. There ya have it.

Edit to supplement: I just took my micrometer to the rotors and they average 4.55mm at all the un-swept areas. At 72k miles, having used various brake pads over those miles, with some trepidation I measured the swept areas of my rotors and discovered that they are worn all the way down to 4.50mm. If I were to use a dedicated rotor micrometer which has points instead of flat faces I would be able to read true minimum thickness in the valleys of the grooves. I don't want to know, and will run with the average surface thickness.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
According to the 'Bin-o-facts', the 03's were 298mm, but 04 on they're 320mm. Didn't mention thickness though.
Didn't have that spec. If somebody does they're always welcome to provide to me and I'll update the document.

I'm running '06 rotors on my '05 with an extra wheel I bought and I don't remember the measurement, but remember the two were within a couple thousandths.

The only year that's not compatible is '03. All other years are compatible I believe....unless for some reason somebody finds documentation saying otherwise.

Add me to the list that the specs for minimum thickness are a liability thing and going thinner is one where it increases the likelihood of warpage or running out brakes while riding...but not much of some magic thickness that things explode or something.

 
...According to the 'Bin-o-facts', the 03's were 298mm, but 04 on they're 320mm. Didn't mention thickness though.
My info came from my 2004 Genuine Yamaha paper Factory Service Manual©. And, the info could still be incorrect.

So, I just took a steel rule to my '04 rotors and they are indeed 320mm in spite of what my FSM says. There ya have it.

Edit to supplement: I just took my micrometer to the rotors and they average 4.55mm at all the un-swept areas. At 72k miles, having used various brake pads over those miles, with some trepidation I measured the swept areas of my rotors and discovered that they are worn all the way down to 4.50mm. If I were to use a dedicated rotor micrometer which has points instead of flat faces I would be able to read true minimum thickness in the valleys of the grooves. I don't want to know, and will run with the average surface thickness.
Your rotors have only worn .05mm in 72k miles?! You must engine brake a lot!

 
Your rotors have only worn .05mm in 72k miles?! You must engine brake a lot!
Ok not2' you made me go look at both front rotors more carefully. My measurements stand, and I'm pleased to see that both sides are equal in wear. I also did a fingernail check (run your fingernail down the rotor) and was pleased that my rotors felt very smooth with no ripples and did not feel or get caught on grooves.

I really don't know why I have so little wear on my rotors. At least 75% of my miles have been two-up and let me assure you that when we ride together and travel fully loaded the 'beams carry a LOT of inertia. I also do use a good deal of the tach in fifth gear too. Next time you walk past a Gen I, take a look at what the 12:00 high position indicates:

Two up through the Kancamagus with herfjr and ZOOOMM.

RoadView.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dayum! What kind of pads have you been using beside OEM? I wonder if they changed rotor material on the later models or those CL pads I put on are just REALLY hard on rotors. I think I'll go back to OEM pads with the new rotors. Don't want to chew em up right off the bat. I may just leave the stock rotors and CL pads on a while longer and monitor the wear rate and see if braking performance starts degrading as the rotors get past the point of replacement. They measured right about .150 inches the other night which is a hair below 4mm. I haven't noticed any ill effects on braking yet. I'll bet you could probably run them down to 3.5mm safely, but they'd probably warp easily after repeated hard stops.

 
I just clicked on the ebay link in my previous post to make sure it worked and saw that the seller has relisted another set of the same rotors at the same price if anyone's interested. They're supposed to be 1/2 to 1 lb. lighter than OEM. Less unsprung weight is a good thing, plus they're a little cheaper than any OEM rotors I've seen.

 
I just clicked on the ebay link in my previous post to make sure it worked and saw that the seller has relisted another set of the same rotors at the same price if anyone's interested. They're supposed to be 1/2 to 1 lb. lighter than OEM. Less unsprung weight is a good thing, plus they're a little cheaper than any OEM rotors I've seen.
They look a bit 'dainty' to me. I'll let you be the guniea pig.

So many peeps trying to re-invent the wheel so to speak when the stock set-up works pretty damn good and also LASTS.

 
There is two parts to the rotor story. Part A is that a thinner rotor may be more subject to warping, developing hard spots or other heat related problems. Part B is asking the caliper pistons to extend beyond design length opening the possibilities of lateral force compromising the seals or the outside chance that the pistons will start cocking in the bore (Can I say that on a Friday?)

 
Your rotors have only worn .05mm in 72k miles?! You must engine brake a lot!
...

I really don't know why I have so little wear on my rotors. At least 75% of my miles have been two-up and let me assure you that when we ride together and travel fully loaded the 'beams carry a LOT of inertia. I also do use a good deal of the tach in fifth gear too. Next time you walk past a Gen I, take a look at what the 12:00 high position indicates:..
After saying all that shit, it got me wondering how I am able to still stop :blink: Then I started wondering what kind of shape my REAR rotor is in. Especially since my rear brake pedal has been known to stick. So I just checked it too. Spec is 5mm, I measured 5.0mm. Guess my rotors are made of the same stuff as Super Man.

I have off and on used EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads. The pads work at least as good as stock for significantly less $$$. On the other hand they last like a candy bar in a 5 year old's hand. And, the brake dust! Holy shit, one ride and the wheels are black. When using a pad that is significantly softer than the rotor it's the pad that gives.

 
I have off and on used EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads...they last like a candy bar in a 5 year old's hand. And, the brake dust! Holy shit, one ride and the wheels are black...

100% agreement! More fuel for the fire for reasons NOT to buy EBC VaporWare.

 
I think you're absolutely right. I checked my rear rotor last nite, which has only seen stock pads as far as I know, and it's right at 4.9mm. Granted, the rear doesn't get used as hard as the fronts, but I'm still gonna blame it on the CL pads. And maybe a change in rotor material in Gen 2's...

 
I've got the same story using CL pads on my 07. I replaced the stock pads with CL pads and they wore out about 2.5 times as fast as the factory pads did. I didn't mic the rotors before putting the CL pads on, but I do know that after wearing out some of the CL pads the front rotors were below the 4mm limit. I never installed the CL pads in the rear brake actuated position, so I stuck those in the worn out positions on the inner side of the left caliper and am still running the worn rotors until next front tire change. Hope my balls don't fall off in the meantime! :dribble: Back to OEM pads for me!

I did score a set of used factory 04 rotors off ebay for $125 delivered. They are barely worn and ended up costing about half what a new factory set would cost. I see you scored a good price on aftermarket rotors. I priced EBC rotors, but they were more than OEM.

 
I did score a set of used factory 04 rotors off ebay for $125 delivered. They are barely worn and ended up costing about half what a new factory set would cost. I see you scored a good price on aftermarket rotors. I priced EBC rotors, but they were more than OEM.
Why go with anything other than OEM?

Brand new genuine Yamaha OEM rotors: $109.57 each from partshark.com. About the same price from Zanotti Motors.

REF # DESCRIPTION PART# RETAIL YOUR PRICE

1 DISK BRAKE ASSY 3P6-2581T-01-00 (replaces 3P6-2581T-00-00) $171.47 $109.57

 
Well...while shopping for replacements I found the Braking wave rotors for less than new stockers.($214 delivered - 20% for signing up for 'pay it later' on Paypal) I did a little research on them and found nothing but good things said, I like the looks, and they claim to lose at least 1/2 lb each rotor, so wtf? It's only $$$! Now I'm debating if I should run OEM Yammy pads or get some matching Braking brand pads for them. I'm leaning toward the Yammy pads since they seem to be very 'rotor friendly'! They should be waiting for me when I get home... B)

 
Top