What's the deal with crimpers?

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boardsNbikes

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I've been searching for crimpers since the FJR farkles will soon begin as well as a long-term RD400 restoration. I've noticed crimpers fall into either the sub-$20 category or the $50-85 category. I'm all in favor of good tools especially for frequent and common tasks but is the extra money spent wisely on a good crimper?

A good friend, a tool fanatic, recommends the Ancor double racheted crimper which runs about $85. :eek: I've seen it at a West Marine store but hesitated because of the cost. I can't see myself doing more than a few dozen crimps in the next year. (I think I just answered my own question).

 
boardsNbikes said:
I've been searching for crimpers since the FJR farkles will soon begin as well as a long-term RD400 restoration. I've noticed crimpers fall into either the sub-$20 category or the $50-85 category. I'm all in favor of good tools especially for frequent and common tasks but is the extra money spent wisely on a good crimper?
A good friend, a tool fanatic, recommends the Ancor double racheted crimper which runs about $85. :eek: I've seen it at a West Marine store but hesitated because of the cost. I can't see myself doing more than a few dozen crimps in the next year. (I think I just answered my own question).
Click to expand...
Good, professional-grade crimpers are worth their weight in gold.

I used to be "old school" about it and always soldered connectors... but no more. With good quality "environmental" connectors available nowadays, coupled with a killer pair of crimping pliers, you can create a crimped connection every bit as good as with soldering. Key, however, is having a professional-grade crimping tool, one that makes an extraordinarily strong connection without mashing the connector too much or too little.

If I were you, I'd spend the $$$ necessary to obtain the Good Shit... it's well worth it, and the tool will last for many years.

 
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Nothing is more frustrating than a shit electrical connection ;) Electrex Stator Thread

$85 is pretty over the top, but $3.99 is too. Like any other tool, the money spent on quality the first time insures satisfaction over the years........ ;)

Edit: Why, there's Dale now........... :p

 
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I was an electrician in a previous incarnation ( my first real job). I always used Klein hand tools. I have a Klein crimper that I still use and it works like it did when new. Cost about $20 when I bought them, 30 years ago.

I don't see a need for a ratcheting crimper for the size connectors you'll be using on your bike, or anywhere else around the house for that matter.

 
In favor of spending the big bucks, the necessity of good, reliable electrical connections for the motorcycle did cross my mind. It seems as people get those new-fangled electronic farkles, they get mighty dependent on them. I can imagine being somewhere in the middle of AZ when the GPS fails and asking, "Now...where is North again?" :D

So do any of the experts have a recommendation for a specific crimper?
Click to expand...
Let's hear them :clapping:

 
boardsNbikes said:
So do any of the experts have a recommendation for a specific crimper?
Click to expand...
Let's hear them :clapping:
Click to expand...
I have a set of pliers dedicated to stripping/cutting only, and a second one dedicated to crimping only. You can buy one tools that does both, of course.

My crimping pliers look somewhat similar to this one (though it's a bit beefier that this model appears to be):

Journeyman™ Crimping/Cutting Tool

J1005_lg.jpg


 
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Warchild said:
boardsNbikes said:
So do any of the experts have a recommendation for a specific crimper?
Click to expand...
Let's hear them :clapping:
Click to expand...
I have a set of pliers dedicated to stripping/cutting only, and a second one dedicated to crimping only. You can buy one tools that does both, of course.

My crimping pliers look somewhat similar to this one (though it's a bit beefier that this model appears to be):

Journeyman™ Crimping/Cutting Tool

J1005_lg.jpg
Click to expand...
Those look just like my 30 year old ones except mine have a different material on the handles.

 
If you really want to get carried away and get the type of crimpers used on the production OEM wiring connections try something like these

https://happyterminals.com/index.php?cPath=...53b0f69b4e893b9

They make the crimps where each end of the open terminal is folded back over and inward. Very pricey for any of the tools like this but they make connections truely indistinguishable from OEM factory connectors. I have two of these tools that I acquired over the years and they are extremely nice and make the neatest, nicest crimps around. They had better for what they cost..... :D :D :D

 
I generally solder. Takes longer, but doesn't cost nearly as much. And playing with heat-shrink tubing is fun. Sort of like the bubble-guy in Finding Nemo.

 
Scab said:
jestal said:
I have two of these tools that "I acquired" over the years and they are extremely nice and make the neatest, nicest crimps around.
Click to expand...
Hey, isn't that French for "stole"? :D
Click to expand...


Well...."borrowed" is maybe the term I should have used. I just haven't returned them yet. Besides, I use them for work.....sometimes.

I generally solder all crimps also. I've seen lots of data that indicates that a properly done crimp is as good as soldering and is considered better in many applications where heat damage of the insulation is a concern. But, somehow, piece of mind wins over with soldering. It takes FAR less time to solder than track down the intermittant open in a crimp pulled apart and THEN solder it.

One thing I learned from one of our electrical guys a long time ago was to give any connection, crimped or soldered a good yank. If you are afraid to yank on it for fear of hurting the joint then likely the joint is not very good.... If you do yank on it and it comes apart then it is easier to fix it now than later. Kind of like making sure the fuse blows by shorting the circuit when you build it.....LOL.

 
jestal said:
Scab said:
jestal said:
I have two of these tools that "I acquired" over the years and they are extremely nice and make the neatest, nicest crimps around.
Click to expand...
Hey, isn't that French for "stole"? :D
Click to expand...


Well...."borrowed" is maybe the term I should have used. I just haven't returned them yet. Besides, I use them for work.....sometimes.

I generally solder all crimps also. I've seen lots of data that indicates that a properly done crimp is as good as soldering and is considered better in many applications where heat damage of the insulation is a concern. But, somehow, piece of mind wins over with soldering. It takes FAR less time to solder than track down the intermittant open in a crimp pulled apart and THEN solder it.

One thing I learned from one of our electrical guys a long time ago was to give any connection, crimped or soldered a good yank. If you are afraid to yank on it for fear of hurting the joint then likely the joint is not very good.... If you do yank on it and it comes apart then it is easier to fix it now than later. Kind of like making sure the fuse blows by shorting the circuit when you build it.....LOL.
Click to expand...
I like yanking it too. :dribble:

 
I see the pictures of the crimping pliers, but can you give instructions on their use? Also, is the brand or style of connectors important?

I never know exactly what to do with that "finger pointing down" part. Does it drive straight into the split part of the connector? Is it meant to curve both ways and move the wire's fibers to each side in two groups? Or do you poke it into the non-split side of the connector? Or do I have the wrong end of the stick entirely?

Thanks for any word-pictures, picture-pictures, or lessons.

 
ALL my connections are crimped, soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing, then wire tied or double insulated. I ain't taking those damn panels off again!

Buy the Klein tools as pictured above. Just a good pair of crimpers, not the $5 ones. Spend your extra money on quality connectors. They are not all created equal. Stay way from the bargain assortment packs.

Learn to solder and be sure to wash all your connections before sealing/insulating them. Alcohol works best. If you suspect potential moisture, you can squeeze a dab of flowable silicon into each end of the heat shrink before you shrink it down.

Oh yeah, spend the extra bucks on a decent heat shrink gun. Leave the cig lighter for your neighbor to check his HD for gasoline leaks.

:p

 
A butane cigarette lighter isn't a "decent" heat shrink gun....??? :eek: :eek: :eek:

Personally, I like the butane charcoal lighter type with the long stalk to more easily maneuver around the heat shrink tubing.

 
Did I hear RD-400 restoration I am looking for one. I had a new 77 thats 1977 my senior year of High School. I would like to find one restored or restore one my self.

 
apratt said:
I never know exactly what to do with that "finger pointing down" part. Does it drive straight into the split part of the connector? Is it meant to curve both ways and move the wire's fibers to each side in two groups? Or do you poke it into the non-split side of the connector? Or do I have the wrong end of the stick entirely?
Thanks for any word-pictures, picture-pictures, or lessons.
Click to expand...
If you are using connectors which have a plastic shiled over the end where the wire goes in then you should use the part of the crimper that does not have the finger on it. On the Kleis pictured above it is the part deeper in the throat, closer to the pivot of the pliers.

For naked connectors, the finger is used to press a deep dimple into the side of the connector opposite the split, or seam in the end of the connector where the wire goes in.

Sorry, no pictures.

 
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wow -- must be on the same wavelength... been looking at these:

[SIZE=10pt][/SIZE]

ToolAid Ratcheting Terminal Crimper Kit

  • Versatile kit includes 5 dies for virtually all uses.
  • Die sets quickly interchange for a wide range of applications.
  • Crimping tool has a steel frame with contoured grips.
  • Supplied in a durable, plastic, molded storage case with carrying handle.
Applications:

  • Insulated terminals 22-10 AWG
  • Non insulated open barrel connectors 22-10 AWG
  • Fully insulated quick disconnect terminals with thinner wire barrels 22-10 AWG
  • Non insulated terminals 22-8 AWG
  • For miniature insulated rings, spade and butt splices 16-26 AWG

$76 at Clicky (Link has pictures too.)

Appears to have most dies and seems ok... anyone got a pair of these or know anything about 'em?

 

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