What's the deal with crimpers?

[Wilson]

If the wire connection is in a spot that does not move around a lot solder is fine. If it is in an area that bends often, like from the handlebar to the frame or bends at the steering head a soldered connection has a tendency to break the wire where the solder stops. A crimped connection is better in these areas.

 

[boardsNbikes]

Did I hear RD-400 restoration I am looking for one. I had a new 77 thats 1977 my senior year of High School. I would like to find one restored or restore one my self.

Yep. I graduate HS in 1983 but spent the late seventies gawking at RD350s and RD400s at the local Yamaha dealer. Always wanted one.

My 77 RD400 ran fine until a few years ago when I learned that RDs don't appreciate running WFO, uphill, carrying a fat man so the engine seized on me. It has made a few moves with me throughout the country but I haven't yet pulled her apart to powercoat the frame, rebuild the engine, check the crank, replace seals and most lines. Oh, and repaint it. My goal is a functional restoration while keeping the look of the period--if a bolt needs replacing I'll go to modern stainless without hesitation, shocks will be the modern "vintage" variety, etc..

I've owned a Honda VFR, a Suzuki SV650S and the FJR, but the RD is still the only bike that routinely turned heads.

If you're looking for an RD check out 2-Stroke Forum but these folks know what they're worth and how to fix 'em. Otherwise, just have to keep an eye on eBay (RDs and especially Daytonas get relatively high prices) or better yet your local craiglist. Occasionally, you can get someone who doesn't know what they have.

BACK TO THE CRIMPER QUESTION

I guess everyone is in favor of the single purpose tool since no one has mentioned something like Klein's Multi-Purpose Six-in-One Tool

Right?

 

[RonBB]

If the wire connection is in a spot that does not move around a lot solder is fine. If it is in an area that bends often, like from the handlebar to the frame or bends at the steering head a soldered connection has a tendency to break the wire where the solder stops. A crimped connection is better in these areas.

Agree but would add that it's probably better to move the splice to an area that doesn't flex as much if possible for either soldering or crimping.

I guess everyone is in favor of the single purpose tool since no one has mentioned something like Klein's Multi-Purpose Six-in-One Tool

Very similar to what I use & I'm very happy with both the convenience, price & results.

I would like to add about making a good solder joint/connection: Heat the wires to be solder to a sufficiently hot enough temperature to readily melt the solder. Make sure the metal to be soldered is clean, and very important when the solder is applied and until it cools to a solid do not let it move. A bright shiny chrome like surface usually indicates a good solder joint. A powdery gray surface may indicate a poor solder joint. The last tidbit is to not forget to put the heat shrink tubing over the wires & down a bit before soldering or crimping the connection. Happy farkling all. Ron

 

[Warchild]

BACK TO THE CRIMPER QUESTION
I guess everyone is in favor of the single purpose tool since no one has mentioned something like Klein's Multi-Purpose Six-in-One Tool

I have used this tool before.... it is an outstanding at stripping wires, but not quite as impressive at crimping. It does the job, mind you, but the dedicated Crimping Pliers yield a superior connection, in my experience.

 

[ionbeam]

Rickster's find, if of any quality is a steal at $76. This will take care of just about anything:

 

[PTP]

I've been searching for crimpers since the FJR farkles will soon begin as well as a long-term RD400 restoration. I've noticed crimpers fall into either the sub-$20 category or the $50-85 category. I'm all in favor of good tools especially for frequent and common tasks but is the extra money spent wisely on a good crimper?
A good friend, a tool fanatic, recommends the Ancor double racheted crimper which runs about $85. I've seen it at a West Marine store but hesitated because of the cost. I can't see myself doing more than a few dozen crimps in the next year. (I think I just answered my own question).

Look here...

https://www.vintageconnections.com/

No financial interest, but I have wired complete bikes totally from scratch with the crimper and connectors they offer.

PTP

 

[boardsNbikes]

https://www.vintageconnections.com/

Bookmarked and thanks.

 

[jestal]

Nice find with the Vintage Connections link. Much usefull stuff there. Their crimper looks like the lowest cost version of that type of crimper I have seen.

Here is another option. One of the crimpers I have is the one on the left.

https://www.farmtronics.com/PDF-F/Crimping_...mping%20tool%22