Top quality HID kits for the FJR

If you've followed along with this thread, you'll know I've gone through a series of cheap a$$ HID components and have now moved on to a very high quality setup that works really well with the FJR.

The vendor I got these from is more focused on selling to the BMW crowd so I've decided to offer these here.

The package has a couple of options but in all cases you get two (2) of the telescoping bi-xenon (servo actuated) H4 hi/lo HID capsules, the wire harness (controller) that controls the servos and fires the capsules, and two ballasts.

This kit includes the slim format Hylux ASIC ballasts. The ASIC are the way to go as these are the newer technology ballasts that actively measure current draw to ensure proper voltage to the capsule at all times. The traditional ballasts simply use a pre-programmed power curve designed to approximate the way voltage needs to be modified over time as the capsule ages. However, if you want this kit for a CANBUS-equiped bike (not an FJR obviously), the older style bikes work better and I can get those too.

There is also a few different color temp (5K, 6K, and 8K). I strongly recommend the 5K as these pump out the most lumens.

Here's another thing to consider - These kits include the best HID components I've seen in this price range. The quality difference between these and the cheap kits on eBay has to be seen to be believed. But there's more - Each of these kits will be tested prior to shipping. We burn in each set and chart current draw to ensure it is within spec. This really cuts down on warranty issues and gives you peace of mind that there will be fewer DOA issues.

The price for this FJR kit is $125 which includes shipping to the lower 48.

You can certainly find HID kits for less but not with these components.

I'll be adding better pictures soon but here's a few:

Bulb capsule:



Thin ballast:



Example current plot you get with the kit:



I'll get this up for web ordering soon but I'll take orders by PM for now.

Just a note to let everyone know this was still here. I jumped the gun originally and didn't clear things with the admins (D'oh) but that has been taken care of now so all's well.

Any chance these would be available with a housing, so they can be added as auxiliary lights rather than replacing the existing headlamps?

Todd,

Are these 35W lamps?

What is the approx lumens from one of the 5K (4300K maybe?) bulbs?

Thanks!

Too bad they aren't 4300K.

And what's this about pre-programmed voltage curves? What would you do to 'reset' one if you changed bulbs?

Ballasts most often work on a feedback loop.

Ok - I'll try to address all these -

Geezer - I don't have any aux light housing types at this time.

zorlac - Yes, these are 35w bulbs. On the color temp. These are 5k but they are actually less blue (if that makes sense) than some of the cheaper 4.3k I've had. They are night-and-day different from the 6K's I had on my bike before. In fact, I have a 6K on my BMW so I'll do a side-by-side photo for you. Also, I'll try to get the exact lumen output for you.

I was actually kind of disappointed originally on how little blue tint these have since I like that for daytime visibility but once I saw how they perform at night vs. the 6Ks, I was happy to give that up.

bramfrank - See above on the 4.3K vs. 5K. You won't be disappointed on that score. On the ballasts I was perhaps oversimplifying. It's my understanding that the ASIC ballasts use a feedback loop, where as the traditional ballasts do not and instead follow a pre-programed curve from the time they are first used. Obviously, they will continue to work with a new bulb (I've switched and swapped bulbs and ballasts often) but perhaps not at the optimal voltage for a given bulb as the ASIC will do.

But my Hella HID driving lights are 4300K - ever so slightly whiter than a halogen - and I want the color temps to be the same - 5K has more blue content . . .

Beside throwing more light down the road what other benefits do the HID lights have?

bramfrank said:

But my Hella HID driving lights are 4300K - ever so slightly whiter than a halogen - and I want the color temps to be the same - 5K has more blue content . . .

Click to expand...

Not being argumentative here as your statement is correct on the surface. My experience with these is different however. I'd be willing to bet that these are actually whiter than the 4.3Ks you have. To the point that it makes me wonder if these are being marketed incorrectly. However, knowing that Philips generally knows what they're doing, I doubt that.

Let me post a video tonight that might explain things. As you know, when HIDs start up, they tend to start out really blue and then settle into their steady state color after about 10 seconds. These do the same and during start up, they are bluer than 4.3K bulbs are at steady state. However, when these bulbs settle in after 10 seconds, all trace of blue (to my old eyes) is gone where as my 4.3Ks have a slight blue tint.

johnny80s - the general thought is that HIDs add value a couple of ways: They draw less steady state current 35w vs. 55/60w for your OEM halogen bulbs. They are more resistant to vibration and thus tend to last much longer. Finally, not withstanding the discussion above they tend to be more visible in the daylight to oncoming traffic.

As HIDs age, their color temps increase.

To answer the question, HIDs throw more light down the road and consume a lot less power doing it . . . . An H4 halogen bulb puts out about 1500 lumens, consuming 55 watts doing it (low beam). The DS2 HID capsule does 3200 lumens and consumes 35 watts.

I'm interested! Heck, I've paid over half that much for bulbs.

I haven't paid a lot of attention to the HID scene for awhile, but the mechanical hi/lo beam stuff used to get cussed at a lot. I take it that is no longer the case?

"the mechanical hi/lo beam stuff used to get cussed at a lot."

I just put a 55W Bi-Xenon capsule into my 03 Concours and the Hi/Low solenoid seems to work fine.

Nice sharp low beam cutoff and LOTS of white light from a 4300K bulb.

I'm very happy so far and would be interested in what Todd is offering but I've also been looking at these. They offer a 4300K capsule.

Thanks guys.

Guess I should have pointed out up front that I can get 4.3K bulbs too but before anyone pulls the trigger, let me get some photos of these 5Ks up (dang real job is killing me right now).

As for the servos, I'll show them working via video too. They're no longer an issue.

Can you get these in a 50-55w version too? If so, I'll take a set.

Not to nit pick, but since the color temperature of the light emitted from the lamps is actually a measurement in degrees Kelvin, 4.3K is technically incorrect.

5000K bulbs should be worth a look since they are theoretically closer to sunlight.

Zorlac said:

Not to nit pick, but since the color temperature of the light emitted from the lamps is actually a measurement in degrees Kelvin, 4.3K is technically incorrect.

Click to expand...

K is also shorthand for 1,000 as in Kilo. 4.3K refers to 4300 with Kelvin inferred. It's mixing notation, but I think most people knew what he was talking about.

To be really nitpicky would it be 4.3k K?

Having run 4.3, 5, and 6 Kilo Kelvin before....I'm partial to the 5 myself.

Zorlac said:

Not to nit pick, but since the color temperature of the light emitted from the lamps is actually a measurement in degrees Kelvin, 4.3K is technically incorrect.5000K bulbs should be worth a look since they are theoretically closer to sunlight.

Click to expand...

Perhaps a reason to more strongly consider the 4300 K lamps.

Well, these have proven very difficult to photograph so this is the best my old camera can do. I think you can see the difference between the 5000K temp bulbs in the FJR and the 6000K temp bulb in my old R80.

The difference in real life is much clearer. The 5000K bulbs are as close to natural sunlight as any I've seen.





I tired to video the start up but the lights just overwhelm my camera so no joy.

A couple of final points - If you want a set of these, you'll get a copy of the burn in current draw from the meter. We burn them in with the ballasts to verify they work and print out the results to have a record that they were tested.

Also, we can shorten the wire harness to remove the excess wire that's included for use in a car. The pro is you have less to hide, the con is you'll have two (albeit professional) splices in the wire. Your choice.

And finally, please remember folks that this is not a for-profit venture for me so your patience is appreciated . I'm just trying to pass along what I found since it's so hard to get good quality kits that work on our bike.