Milky final drive oil

TheAxeman · Jun 25, 2007

Today when I drained the final drive oil, it had a distinctly irridescent milky appearance to it, almost like pearlescent paint. Anybody have an idea of what could be causing the oil to break down that way or if it is a potential problem brewing? The bike is an '06 with about 13K on it and the drive oil was changed about 3000 miles ago using the "required" yamaspec yamalube.

twowheelnut · Jun 25, 2007

Sounds like water is getting in there.

Ignacio · Jun 25, 2007

First two or three times I changed the fluid it remained milky full of molybdenum from the factory and smelled of sulfur. It diluted so that by the 4th or 5th change it was clear for me.

mdisher · Jun 25, 2007

Ignacio said:
First two or three times I changed the fluid it remained milky full of molybdenum from the factor. It diluted so that by the 4th or 5th change it was clear for me.

Gunny!

My changes at 600/3000 and 6500 were like that. Since I had the juice I changed it when I changed the oil the first 3 times.

Going to do it again with the next change which is due any day now.

I'm at 13k too so it's due again, but I suspect more of the same.

Feejer/Weejer man · Jun 25, 2007

I change mine final drive oil every other oil and filter change. Takes just a few extra minutes and Mobile 1 75/90 synthetic is cheap enough.

TheAxeman · Jun 25, 2007

twowheelnut said:
Sounds like water is getting in there.

Thats what I suspected at first also but wouldn't there also be an indication of oil seepage from someplace?

I don't remember seeing it discolored the last time it was changed but, if nothing else, it makes me feel better that some of you other guys had the same experience. I'll give you a call when the final drive goes BMW on me....

Charlie Hoss · Jun 25, 2007

If anything bad was going on in there, you would likely see some serious crap attached to the magnetic drain plug. I agree with the others, no problem.

huron52 · Jun 25, 2007

I would think water myself but it could be the change like Ignacio says.

Joe2Lmaker · Jun 25, 2007

I suppose that oil is long gone? If it looks milky next time, I'd be curious if setting it aside in a clear jar might help the emulsion separate so you could get a better idea what you’re dealing with.

Constant Mesh · Jun 25, 2007

Why change the gear oil so often? The manual recommends a change every 16,000 miles after the initial 600 mile change.

Nothing going on back there to contaminate the oil.

Joe2Lmaker · Jun 25, 2007

Constant Mesh said:
Why change the gear oil so often? The manual recommends a change every 16,000 miles after the initial 600 mile change.
Nothing going on back there to contaminate the oil.

Because "Mobile 1 75/90 synthetic is cheap enough."

Mesh, why does your avatar appear and disappear? Like right now, it's not visible, but in an hour if there's another post I come back to read, your avatar will be there. Weird.

TheAxeman · Jun 25, 2007

I just changed it because its easy enough and I figure no harm is done so why not. Charlie mentioned the magnetic drain plug and there was really nothing on it to indicate a problem. Next time I'll drain it into a seperate container and set it aside as suggested.

Geezer · Jun 25, 2007

I just can't figure out how a significant quantity of water could get in there. There is no pressurized water near the final drive. You will probably get a little condensation over time, but I doubt it would be enough to notice.

Constant Mesh · Jun 25, 2007

One reason not to change it so often is to lessen the chance of stripping the drain plug threads. I've seen far too many accounts of shade tree mechanics on this forum stripping drain plug threads during an oil change.

Do no harm as the doctor would say.

There's nothing going on back there to contaminate the oil. Certainly no soot buildup from combustion as experienced by the engine oil.

About the only thing one could do to contaminate the gear oil would be to submerge the drive in water so that water entered the gearbox through the breather on top of the drive.

I don't have an avatar.

Additional note:

The Honda ST1300 manual recommends changing the drive oil every 24K miles. So Yamaha is being extremely conservative when it calls for 16K mile changes.

TheAxeman · Jun 25, 2007

Constant Mesh said:
One reason not to change it so often is to lessen the chance of stripping the drain plug threads.

Hmm, point well taken....

Joe2Lmaker · Jun 26, 2007

Joe2Lmaker said:
Mesh, why does your avatar appear and disappear?

Constant Mesh said:
I don't have an avatar.

My mistake. It was ionbeam's avatar I was expecting to see. The mind is going

Kiki · Jun 26, 2007

Try dabbing some oil on a kleenex or papertowel and look for a halo of coolant.

Up here in canada we get serious condensation foaming between seasons when the humidity is high and the thermostats stick. The crankcase vent should boil off any water unless it is clogged. Lastly, with excess condensation, an over-full sump causes excess foaming too.

ELP_JC · Jun 26, 2007

It'a always a good idea to change the final drive fluids to get all the crap out of there. Haven't had ONE that wasn't full of crap from the factory (they don't clean them before assembly gentlemen). And if you don't tighten the plugs like a gorilla, you can change the oil a hundred times without any problems. I tighten them by hand since I can remember, and never a problem. Just put a new crush washer every time... or run it agaisnt sand paper on a flat surface until smooth if you don't have one handy. The reason I like to change it a few times when new is there's very little oil back there, and it does get pretty hot, so I want my oil fresh and uncontaminated there. As somebody said, a quart of Mobil1 75/90 is $8 at Autozone, and it should last 4 changes or so; cheap insurance folks. Later.

JC

mdisher · Jun 26, 2007

Kiki said:
Try dabbing some oil on a kleenex or papertowel and look for a halo of coolant.
Up here in canada we get serious condensation foaming between seasons when the humidity is high and the thermostats stick. The crankcase vent should boil off any water unless it is clogged. Lastly, with excess condensation, an over-full sump causes excess foaming too.

Can you draw me a diagram as to how coolant might make it into the rear final drive pumpkin. I can't seem to make the connection.

Milky final drive oil

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