very rough 1st gear take off with YCCS

I have searched through and read about others with this YCCS issue where in first gear the bike will jerk forward, then seem to be out of gear, then jerk forward again, etc... when starting out in first gear when the bike is cold (once warmed up mine seems fine).

Looks like others solved(?) the issue by doing the clutch soak (found that link, and the pictures), a throttle cam change, and others did the PCIII and or some combination of these steps.

My question: doing just the clutch soak, will that one step greatly help with this issue?

Is there any other things people have tried that they found worked well for them, eliminating or greatly reducing the issue? Is there anything known now by Yamaha where maybe this is a something that can be fixed by a dealer? (Sort of hoping either it is a known dealer fix, or that the clutch soak will do).

Any advice from others who have been through this would be greatly appreciated. Coming off of an '05 and going to the 2009 AE - not convinced yet I made a good decision about the AE - but my left hand pain that generated after long rides and in commuter traffic is gone, so that is one big plus.

Thanks!

My simple fix was just to let it warm up more before taking off. I also found if I ease into the throttle it is more pronounced than if I just twist and go.

Did not do a clutch soak so can't help there.

Don't beleive there is any dealer fix as there is no real defect for Yamaha to fix. Nature of the beast.

Unless the 09 is radically different, you should be fine with the AE once you get this sorted out. You will like it. I have the 07 and did the following:

1) Unwrapped the throttle spring 1 wrap. Not sure your year needs this, but it helped a lot with light throttle control. My best free upgrade.

2) Grip puppies. More comfy. They also require almost zero grip to control the throttle since the friction on your glove is so good. My best $8.00 upgrade.

3) PowerCommander. This made such a huge difference, even my pillion made comments. With the right map the low end of throttle usage is incredibly smooth and the upper end makes good power. I can't over state how wonderful this made the AE. It went from jerky and lurchy to the model of smoothness. The best expensive upgrade.

Try searching for a clutch soak thread from Macatrophy, he did it (complete with pictures) but I can't remember why.

Beamer Reamer said:

3) PowerCommander. This made such a huge difference, even my pillion made comments. With the right map the low end of throttle usage is incredibly smooth and the upper end makes good power. I can't over state how wonderful this made the AE. It went from jerky and lurchy to the model of smoothness. The best expensive upgrade.

Click to expand...

Which map are you using? I've got the "smoothness" map in now but the gas mileage sucks!

QUOTE (ahamlin01 @ May 18 2010, 05:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...My question: doing just the clutch soak, will that one step greatly help with this issue? ...

Thanks!

Simple answer? Yes.

It isn't a question of driver control, it's the computer trying to compensate for a clutch that doesn't have the correct characteristics.

Do the soak, not hard, my pictorial description here.

I have an 08 and I have to let it get 2 bars on the temp guage or it doesn't even want to discuss taking off.

BwanaDik said:

Try searching for a clutch soak thread from Macatrophy, he did it (complete with pictures) but I can't remember why.

Beamer Reamer said:

3) PowerCommander. This made such a huge difference, even my pillion made comments. With the right map the low end of throttle usage is incredibly smooth and the upper end makes good power. I can't over state how wonderful this made the AE. It went from jerky and lurchy to the model of smoothness. The best expensive upgrade.

Click to expand...

Which map are you using? I've got the "smoothness" map in now but the gas mileage sucks!

Click to expand...

I am also using the smoothness map, "Wally Smoothness" if I remember correctly. My mileage seems to suck as well. I need to get an accurate reading on this the old fashion way because the computer cannot be trusted. I plan to measure with pen and paper the next three tanks and get a MPG average with my setup.

mcatrophy said:

ahamlin01 said:

...My question: doing just the clutch soak, will that one step greatly help with this issue? ...Thanks!

Click to expand...

Simple answer? Yes.

It isn't a question of driver control, it's the computer trying to compensate for a clutch that doesn't have the correct characteristics.

Do the soak, not hard, my pictorial description here.

Click to expand...

Excellent, Smithers!

First time I went through the entire pictorial. Outstanding job!

QUOTE (RadioHowie @ May 18 2010, 07:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (mcatrophy @ May 18 2010, 01:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (ahamlin01 @ May 18 2010, 05:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...My question: doing just the clutch soak, will that one step greatly help with this issue? ...

Thanks!

Simple answer? Yes.

It isn't a question of driver control, it's the computer trying to compensate for a clutch that doesn't have the correct characteristics.

Do the soak, not hard, my pictorial description here.

Excellent, Smithers!

First time I went through the entire pictorial. Outstanding job!

I try. SWMBO says I'm very trying.

How long has it been since you switched to the AE? It definatley takes some getting used to till you find that sweet spot on the throttle and why would you want to run without a little warm up?? +1 on the grip puppies though. I just installed a pair, major improvement. I would try all the inexpensive options and live with them for awhile before dumping big bucks on a possible non-issue. Jusy my $.02.

Only had it a little over two weeks. The '05 had over 44k on it and I loved it; I am sticking with FJR's.

What a great forum. Thanks for the posts - I will try the inexpensive options first - the clutch soak is a bit intimidating, but I will make sure I do not drop anything in there while it is open like one of you did. OMG - I do not want to go through that!

I am sure I will get to love the AE as much as I did the '05, and my left hand won't hurt, and my left foot won't roast. :lol:

Thanks again.

(oh, and yes, I always let it warm up until it idles down, I will try to let it go a little longer and see if that helps too)

I tried the clutch soak and it didn't work for me. I still got the shudder when I first start off on a ride even when warmed up to four bars.

What I did find that works in my case is before I start my ride I hold the rear brake and give it enough throttle that it wants to lurch the bike forward. I do this two or three times. Then when I start off everything is smooth. My guess is that it is seating the clutch pack so there isn't the shudder.

I have the G2 throttle tube installed and have done the Barbarian jumper mod and use grip puppies. No PCIII yet.

P.S. - Has anyone who has done the clutch soak taken the clutch back apart again to look at it? After doing it and still having the shudder problem I took the clutch apart again to make sure it was right. I was expecting to see the clutch friction plates with a good soaking of oil on them but they looked about as dry as when I first took it apart. I did the second teardown about an hour after taking a ride. Those clutch plates sure do stay hot for awhile. :huh:

Well, that is pretty interesting; I was wondering if any others might have found that the clutch soak did not work before I tried it myself. Interesting that some things seem to work for some bikes and not for others bikes. I will add your notes to my list (I have about 5 or 6 things to try now!) and see if your technique helps.

I appreciate the input. Thank you.

I have a new 07 AE, and it doesn't shudder when taking off, hot or cold. 850 miles on it now. It did take me about 200 miles to find the sweet spot, and I have done the barbarian mod, no altitude fix yet. Barbarian mod might have helped a little, but it wasn't bad before either... Keep posting on the issue, if you are having this problem now, I might see it in the future. Best of luck.

Also, does someone have the wally's smoothnes map. I've ordered a PC V and autotune and would like to start with a map that everyone seems to agree is the best overall. :yahoo:

Well, I found out something interesting this morning.

New 2009 YCCS/AE - when cold, when I first got it and for the first 600 miles, a small jerk/clutch grab when starting off; when warm, no issues.

It started a terrible jerking/grabbing after 2 weeks. So, I started thinking "what is different since I picked it up?"

The only thing? Oil change.

In the manual it mentions that the crankcase oil also lubricates the clutch.

Checking the oil, the oil was right to the very top of the glass window when I rode it for the first 600 miles.

After 600 miles, I changed the oil and filter, and put in 4 qts of Yamalube 20W50 (I could have gone with 10W40 as well, since the temp range here in the NE doesn't go above 110F) This brought the oil level to EXACTLY halfway up the glass circle.

I started thinking what if that is the only thing causing the problem, the oil volume?

So, I picked up another qt of 20W50 and topped off the oil while the bike was on its center stand, just until the oil is at the top of the glass. This took approx 400mls.

I started the bike, let it warm up, and it is back to the way it was when I picked it up. One not so bad clutch grab (i.e. I can live with it - don't feel like I am going to toss my passenger off the back now).

So, oil volume is playing a big role, and even though the manual says to have the oil level within the glass (between the min and max), and mine was right in the middle, tending towards having that bit of extra oil to get the level to its MAX line in the glass helped enormously, at least with my bike.

Next time I change the oil and filter, I am going to go to the 10W40 and see if that helps even more? Possible I guess?

So, more info, maybe this will help some of you out.

Allen

Haven't thought about it but when I bought the bike the oil level was halfway up the sight glass and it had a pronounced shudder when taking off. when I changed the oil at 600 miles it filled the sight glass and the bike has been very smooth since then................you may be on to something.

I have been running Castrol 10 w 40 since the oil change.

I had the same issue with my 09, I found that a little brake and more throttle when cold did the trick

ahamlin01 Posted May 22 2010, 08:00 AM

....... So, oil volume is playing a big role, and even though the manual says to have the oil level within the glass (between the min and max), and mine was right in the middle, tending towards having that bit of extra oil to get the level to its MAX line in the glass helped enormously, at least with my bike.

copron Posted May 24 2010, 10:37 AM

Haven't thought about it but when I bought the bike the oil level was halfway up the sight glass and it had a pronounced shudder when taking off. when I changed the oil at 600 miles it filled the sight glass and the bike has been very smooth since then................you may be on to something

Found the same positive results. Very noticable difference on the very next pull away and for the last two weeks after filling to the top of the sight glass. No adverse effects as far as I can tell. Didn't think I could like this bike any better than I already did, but really big grin now. R

I have about 6000 miles on my 2008 AE that I purchased last November. I guess I'm lucky, I've never had this issue, and I'm bad about starting up and going with little or no warmup time. If I'm not careful I'll sometimes get a little bump going into second, but nothing really distracting.

I do want to do the spring unwind sometime when I have the tank up, I can see where that would help with low speed handling.