gear neutral display on lcd

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ireland
gear indicator display (neutral)works fine when bike is cool, but it only works intermittently when bike is hot
I have also noted at this stage revs increase slightly
please help me if you can
 
She is 2018 FJR 1300A Six speed version
Can't tell you for sure on a Gen III+ (I have a Gen II), but the first thing I would look at is the "Neutral Switch Assembly". #6 in the following parts fiche
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2016/fjr1300a-fjr13ag/electrical-1

I had this switch fail on my 2007 and although it would display the gears (1-5), it did not reliably detect neutral (no neutral light and no starting on the side stand). Problem was intermittent for a time and then permanent until I replaced the switch. The switch had 6 contact pads successively connected by a spring loaded pin in the transmission - one for each gear and one for neutral. The neutral pad did not show continuity with the connector although the wire was good right up to the switch (the other pads were continuous with the connector). Discontinuity was in the potted switch assembly and I elected to replace rather than attempt to repair. It is possible that the switch surfaces are dirty and just need a clean. Disassembly and replacement was easy on the Gen II and it appears similar on the later bikes, but I have never had one apart - 2 screws, some cable ties and one multi-pin connector (if I remember correctly from 10+ years ago). As far as I can tell from the fiche, the part is similar (would have one additional contact pad), but don't know for certain.

Note: It may not be this, but it seems possible and is relatively easy to check using an ohmmeter. The part is called a switch but there are no mechanical parts or contacts inside - just contact pads on the surface that connect to wires going to the connector.

Good luck and let us know if this helps (or if you find another cause).

Welcome to the forum!!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for getting back to me so soon
What I initially did was cleaned the switch with WD 40 , i changed the oil and filter(oil dirty)
Ran the machine for 30 mile. Spin
Neutral light gave trouble again fan came on the bike
So
I reopened the switch gave the pads a very light sand with emery paper flushed with electric cleaner solution put it back bike went for spin 15mile run no issues
Will keep you informed
Once again thanks for the advice
 
Thanks for getting back to me so soon
What I initially did was cleaned the switch with WD 40 , i changed the oil and filter(oil dirty)
Ran the machine for 30 mile. Spin
Neutral light gave trouble again fan came on the bike
So
I reopened the switch gave the pads a very light sand with emery paper flushed with electric cleaner solution put it back bike went for spin 15mile run no issues
Will keep you informed
Once again thanks for the advice
It seems likely that the switch is (or was) the culprit. Time will tell if your surface sanding is a long term fix. As I mentioned, mine was intermittent for a time and then permanent. Easy enough (and not terribly expensive) to replace the switch.
 
I had this happen on mine. I cleaned and greased the linkage and it now seems to be working just fine.
 
one chap says it is poor soldering remove silicone on gear switch and resolder
I woud recommend purchasing a newone not that expensive
Just a simple (broken) connection in the potted part is what was wrong with mine. I elected to replace rather than dig it out, clean, solder and repot (hoping to keep it waterproof). Replace unless cleaning the contact pads fixes it. I might have repaired if the discontinuity was at the plug end or due to a kinked wire away from the switch.
 
Thanks for getting back to me so soon
What I initially did was cleaned the switch with WD 40 , i changed the oil and filter(oil dirty)
Ran the machine for 30 mile. Spin
Neutral light gave trouble again fan came on the bike
So
I reopened the switch gave the pads a very light sand with emery paper flushed with electric cleaner solution put it back bike went for spin 15mile run no issues
Will keep you informed
Once again thanks for the advice
WD-40 isn't really for electronics. An electronics cleaner spray would have been a better choice.
 
WD-40 isn't really for electronics. An electronics cleaner spray would have been a better choice.
The "switch" is really just 7 flat copper contact pads flush with flat plastic surface; each pad connected from behind to a wire that goes to the coupler. A squirt of WD40 followed by a wipe with a cloth is probably as good as anything to clean that surface. If there is oxidation on the metal contact points, a fine emery cloth would work well. Seems to me it is a bit oily in there anyway so a bit of WD40 residue probably wouldn't matter much. (I agree that it isn't the best choice for a normal switch or electronic component.)
 
I bought a can of this at a guitar store 3 years ago and I've used it to go through all the connections on multiple project bikes. Last fall my electric furnace wasn't working right and I hit all the connections on it with this stuff returning it to like new operation. Can is still half full and I can't recommend it enough:

Deoxit D5
 
I bought a can of this at a guitar store 3 years ago and I've used it to go through all the connections on multiple project bikes. Last fall my electric furnace wasn't working right and I hit all the connections on it with this stuff returning it to like new operation. Can is still half full and I can't recommend it enough:

Deoxit D5
Excellent stuff, but this is not a conventional electrical switch.
 
This is what the switch looks like. (This is an image of a used switch on eBay.)
1719433371845.png
This is for a 5-speed (the smaller copper pad is neutral and the one that was discontinuous on mine). The sheathed cable has six wires going to the coupler. There are no mechanical components in this switch and the contact pads aren't even spring-loaded or moveable. Switch is bolted to the transmission case and it does not move either. The individual pads contact a spring-loaded pin in the transmission and this makes the connection telling the display (and ECU) what gear has been selected - only one of the pads can be grounded at a time. 6-speed would, I assume, have an additional contact pad. If no gear number (or N) shows up it is most likely the pad is dirty, the pad is discontinuous to the coupler or there is a problem with the pin/spring. If the latter, no gear numbers would show.

Not certain, but I think #2 is what makes the contact.
1719433843231.png
 

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