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Plus one re jumping from a NON RUNNING car/truck, ... Then fully charge YOUR battery and get it LOAD TESTED. It'll likely fail at this point.

A touch of loctite on the nut doesn't hurt and also dielectric grease on the terminals help keep the corrosion down. A cut down ear plug or heat shrink UNDER the nut keeps the nut easier to access too..

Its that time of the year!! I'm offering FREE SHIPPING when purchasing TWO helmet lock brackets and half price shipping on ONE bracket. This offer is valid now thru 3-31-17 and includes ALL year FJR's with USPS tracking. Please e-mail me @ [email protected] for options, pricing, etc...

Quote :" I ordered a whole new mount." . Sounded like you bought the entire unit.. :)

Techmount would have sold you the nut separately. Several years ago, they custom made a stem nut (much smaller than the FJR) for my FZ6: 590:

Helmet locks so your not dragging your helmet around or wasting storage space: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/2399-helmet-lock-brackets/page-12

Yamaha did! Mid sized, 95 HP, 14k red line, 6 speed, water cooled, handles great, upright seating and Yamaha dependability:

A stock seat that doesn't feel like a friggin board...16K plus for a new bike that hurts your butt, BS.. The old school, Kenny Roberts, "Bumble Bee" paint job (like the RZ's) would be HOT!! Fork drain screws. Helmet locks would be nice... Wouldn't take but welding two plates to the sub-frame...

I had issues with my original 590 and Garmin eventually sent me an entire NEW unit. It included ALL the harnesses, (bike and auto), so I now have one installed and a complete extra set of cables. If interested, PM me and make a reasonable offer. (I can also discount a set of helmet lock...

The Heli coil is easy enough to install and is stronger than what you had. JB weld is good stuff but I wouldn't trust my life to it.... IMO, just fix it right the first time..

Here's a single Powerlet with a Yamaha helmet lock (keyed the same as the ignition) for the left side: Right side single(double also available): https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/2399-helmet-lock-brackets/page-1 .

When I was looking at a 13 model to buy, I inquired about bleeding the system (after say, I re-sealed the calipers). They said it was a PIA, (forgot if they said they used a specific tool) and not a do it yourself-er project...

I thought the same thing, then just before posting, ding, ding, ding!!! On another forum, abbreviations just came up and can make things difficult. What's W10? I didn't know... Windows 10...

You can look, but that's not the problem then. Only if the rotors are bent, they'd be pushing the pistons back out... Was there anytime the "over the fender brake line loop" was empty of fluid? (I think they still have it...)

Plus 1 ^^^^ Pushing a pad just a touch (for what ever reason) will take a full squeeze of the lever BEFORE it does anything... Just for S&G's, check both disc run-out spec's and rule those out..

+1 ^^^ My 590 changes time automatically (spring ahead, fall behind)...

I don't have an FJR shop manual anymore however for my FZ6 Yamaha recommends caliper SEAL REPLACEMENT EVERY TWO YEARS. Someone with a FJR shop manual can check / post the recommendation. I re-sealed my old 04 fronts when I had it (non-ABS), as the calipers were hanging up badly. The seals...

If your smooth with the clutch lever / throttle, you can easily get rolling in second. Re the Cam chain jumping likely NOT. I would do a bit of practicing starting as stalling in first (especially in traffic) can very hazardous to your health... Paying attention to what gear your in as well...

My old 04 FJR, on level ground, would idle in first gear with me on board at 1100, no problem. My current FZ6 the same, 1100 RPM, no chugging, etc... And that's with much less torque down below (14K red line)

Doesn't seem so "quick" if you have to dismantle the bike.. Me tinks you need to find another spot easily accessible...