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I have a couple of screw driver torx bits for light duty, but a decent set of 1/4" drive torx bits are the way to go. Put on a ratchet, plug into an impact hand hammer tool, etc.. Way MORE LEVERAGE than just a screwdriver style... There's No way I would have gotten it off without heat and...

I've replaced my cover (FZ6-same set up, same issues) twice. Its a super loctite used . A heat gun set medium to high at the aluminum cover itself (around the bolt) for 15 seconds or so will make the loctite loosen and it'll come out fairly easily. The stator bolts were the same, had to add...

There was something posted about the actual actuator, where it bolts to the engine, coming loose (basically NOT attached securely enough). As I re-call reading here, Yamaha had a "KIT" to re-enforce the mounting of the actuator. Here ya go...

Four days left to take advantage of this shipping offer. Next one will probably be mid winter.... Thanks guys, ride safe... Scott

At the VERY LEAST... I'd get an estimate from another shop, to check and re-adjust the chain (IF NECESSARY) on paper, Then, if its found to be off (with picture/video proof), present it to that "dealer". Another option is to open a case with Yamaha, (as I did) and go about it the same way BUT...

I agree with everyone's posts re one tooth off.. With that said, my old 04 Goldwing had the alternator bearing go south requiring the engine to be pulled. When I pick the bike up, it had a good engine oil leak besides many other parts not installed, drive boot not on, locking nut for the...

Just a reminder, one week (or so) left for the shipping offer: Now thru August 31, 2016, (for the continental US), I'm offering Free shipping on TWO brackets or $4.00 shipping on ONE helmet lock bracket. Pay Pal is accepted. Please e-mail me at [email protected] and post in the...

:) For 11 years later, much more labor involved in making the new design("3d vs your 1d"), free shipping till 8-31-16 on TWO, its not much more than paid way back then. And I haven't raised prices at all since 2006, 10 years later...

The Gen 1 design is very different and won't fit UNLESS you cut notches out of the side of you side covers. 06 and newer, the side covers reach fully down to the sub-frame frame rail. The 06 and up design simply slide over and clamp onto the frame rail(except the left side ES model). Your Gen...

They'll get it straightened out Bill. As their replacing about the entire fuel, intake system. Their engineers will take your old one and examine it and find the issue. You can bet they'll probably be something from Yamaha (on paper for the dealers) on this issue and EXACTLY what the fix...

I put ALL my music on an SD card in the 590, (nothing on the GPS), that should work for you

For a "throttle by wire system", sure looks like the throttle cables are just as long as before.. :(

I'm betting that accelerator sensor / switch is the culprit... I don't remember seeing it on any earlier FJR's (Fairly new part for smoother acceleration?)

Thanks... A bunch of extra electrical stuff, STILL WITH CABLES, that really does nothing but add to the complexity of the system.. IMO, absolutely silly, just more stuff to break..

Well, here's the throttle pull and push cables. I don't where it attaches to, if even the TB... https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2014/FJR1300A+-+FJR13AER/STEERING+HANDLE+CABLE/parts.html Great catch Ionbeam, Didn't see (or look for) the accelerator sensor...

Part #12, left side of the bike... https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2014/FJR1300A+-+FJR13AER/INTAKE+2/parts.html

Whats somewhat odd, my Yamaha F150(HP) 4 stroke out board engine had a stalling problem at low idle/docking. It was a known issue on the OB forum I frequent. It was still under warranty and instead of tweeking the TPS, TB's, (special procedure) etc, mama Yamaha paid for the entire throttle body...

For the neutral light, with the ignition turned on (in neutral), simply ground out the switch wire(to the block), the light should illuminate. If it does, it's a faulty neutral switch Part #10...

My educated guess is those bolts are designed like that so they break off if over torqued (thus saving the caliper.). I'd be replacing with the factory bolts...

Its "Colorite" : https://www.colorrite.com/index.cfm Not cheap but OEM...