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The problem with that theory is Canadian emissions standards equal US regulations. In fact, to harmonize the North Amerian standard Canada adopted the US EPA regulations by reference in 2012. There are differences in other areas. For example, Canadian headlight regulations will accept either...

Yamaha Canada has a long and well established practice of selling left-over amalgamations as new models. It's a small market, too small for dedicated production but large enough to absorb excess inventory. Witness the 1982 XJ650R -- Leftover Maxim engines in Euro-spec frames. The 1984 750 Seca...

The casting around the plug is deeply recessed and small diameter. I don't know that you could find a plug with a larger thread with a hex small enough to fit a socket around it and the correct specifications (heat range, lengths, etc.) of the plug itself. Plus it would be a PITA to be changing...

I've had limited success with spark plug thread inserts into aluminium heads. They work initially but have a tendency to come out with the plug eventually. I'd seriously consider looking for a good used casting.

Actually, this is another good place to use a clamp-on ammeter -- this time with the connectors plugged in and looking for AC current, of course. Attached is a nice article with pictures explaining the use of an oscilloscope to diagnose the charging system better than I did.

100 watts of extra lighting shouldn't be a problem for the 590 watt FJR alternator. That's only 7 amps or so. Heck, sitting at idle with the brakes and turn signals on is 80 watts or so. I'd be curious what the output on the red wire from the Regulator/Rectifier is, using a clamp-on DC ammeter...

You may need to get a little more aggressive clearing the flood. Lift the tank, disconnect the fuel pump, remove the sparkplugs, ground the sparkplug wires, hold it at wide open throttle and crank it over for a while. Just make sure there is no source of ignition anywhere in the area! Best done...

You gave the line to the E251 but forgot the link to the write-up. ;-)

I get the fuel and emissions advantages of 3 vs 4 but I don't know that I'd want a triple in a long-distance application. A lot of people complained about the buzziness in the existing 4 cylinder FJR engine -- and it has dual balance shafts. A triple may have theoretically perfect primary...

Are you looking for an adapter between the stock rack and a Givi Monokey case? I don't believe Givi ever made one specific to the Gen 1 (they did for the Gen II -- the E228). I believe your only option would be to McGuiver a universal Monokey plate to your rack yourself, such as this one...

When I got my 06 from my brother, it came to me with no left hand side brake light. Turns out the wire was pinched when someone assembled or reassembled the tail section at some point in it's past. The conductor inside was broken right at the socket. Took me an hour to figure it out, and a...

Sadly, those of us that were old enough to afford a new Gen1 20 years ago are now approaching your situation in life and having to give up riding them. Once upon a time, I'd go riding with my buddies. Then I started riding with my kids. Now I'm riding with my grandkids, but I know I can't keep...

Headlight design looks like someone grafted it on from an old Harley.

What year bike? If you have a Gen1 (most likely to suffer) then join the Red with the Brown with a blue stripe and join the white with a blue stripe to the blue with a yellow stripe.

Back in the day, we added shims to the stock shock spring seat to increase the pre-load. Basically made the "soft" setting more like "hard" and the "hard" setting actually useful. Needed a spring compressor to install the shim though.

Bent both rims, the rear subframe (?) and the handlebars. Quite the pothole. I must say the rider kept his or her head getting that thing to a safe stop with the rubber side down!

Chrystalholt,- It appears that your failure was due to corrosion because Yamaha chose not to use weatherproof connectors on this high-current connection. What happens is that the corrosion between wire and terminal increases the resistance. High current + high resistance = high heat. The high...

Those are the wires from the main ignition switch. The female spade shown in the one picture is from the bike harness side of the connector. The switch side has the male spades.

While that can certainly kill the engine "in flight", it won't cause a no-crank condition. Her problem is almost certainly electrical.

Is the electrical system completely dead when this happens? Ie: no lights, gauges, fuel pump, etc. Or is the problem just the engine cutting out? If the lights, etc. are also dead then suspect the ignition switch, battery connections, etc. If it's just the engine cutting out, suspect the...