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Yes, the wiring you have down is correct for the relay.

Mine's only got 1700 on it since new in 03/09. It hasn't so much as burped or twitched. much nicer than the 07 I had which was a sweet ride after the new ECU. I just wish I could get out and ride it. :-(

At 34f I would be wearing heated gear, or very well layered. I get hypothermia way too easy the last couple of years.

Well at least you didn't take his phone and smash it on the ground like I would have. <_<

Velcro it to the top of the brake res cap.

I have checked the SmarTire system a couple of times against a calibrated gauge and it has been consistently 0.5 lbs lower. That's probably just because the SmarTire setup only gives whole numbers. I haven't checked the Kisan system beyond the install yet. It does require that you calibrate it...

I went and put a standard 1157 back in one side. From a distance my current LED bulbs may have an edge for the subjective brightness, yet the standard bulb may be more visible at a greater distance because they fill the lens more uniformly. Running lights: Brake lights: I have a set of...

I'll work on some comparisons tonight. I need to put one standard bulb back in for this.

I've got an SAE pigtail wired to my FJR and Busa. On the FJR I tuck it under the edge of the tank with the end barely visible. It doesn't get in the way, and it's easy to plug it in. I figure it costs me about $4 per year in electricity to leave both bikes on the two Battery Tenders that I leave...

Valvolene make an 80-90w semi-synthetic gear oil that I've used in my cars for years and my 07 FJR. It's inexpensive and good quality. I change the gear oil every 2 to 3 oil changes. It's cheap insurance to keep the bike happy and smooth.

Why not get this, then keep the speaker plug intact for possible later use? Garmin Wiring

BTW, Pep Boys sells a 1W LED 1157 (2ea) replacement for $20 that is very bright. They loose no brightness when modulating the brake. I use those with a Back-Off modulator. Some friends have said they are almost too bright, so I guess cars should see them better.

I was talking about taping the wires behind it, but didn't catch that you are using the lighter plug. You'll want to use the first one that Blind Squirrel posted.

Here's a simplified wiring I drew for you guys and gals that want to use a CC and modulator:

PM or call. You have my cell #.

For Gen 2 bikes, there is a 3AM switched circuit wired into the back of the accessory plug in the fairing cubby. I don't use mine for anything else so I wired my V1, TMPS and Zumo to this circuit. All go on and off with the key.

Marcus, use a relay. It's easy to wire up and will keep the rear modulator in good order. Connect terminal 85 and 87a to ground (-). Connect 87 to the battery (+). Tap 86 to the brake light wire before the modulator. Wire 30 to the brake wire that goes to the CC until. That will keep the CC...

Make sure the count the preload turns as you back them out. Makes getting the ride back to the way you like it.

Ouch! 8 ribs is a lot of pain, but it is temporary. Glad you're posting. Stay off the bikes until you can take a deep breathe without it causing much pain. If you ribs pop and crackle they are not healed back together yet. Take you time and relax as much as you can between slow walks.

Held, or Olimpia Winter gloves. Both work really well. I haven't tried the Scarabs. I went to Synergy gloves before they were available in my local shop.