'06 AE Clutch Report

[mcrides]

I like my AE alot. they only issue I have is doing at idle uturns. It wants to disengage in the turn and has tried to drop my on my ass.

It's a different system. Throttling while feathering rear brake makes it easier.

You want to be doing u-turns at engagement point, not idle.

Bruno

Montreal, Canada

https://pages.videotron.com/mcrides

 

[Longrifle]

+1 on the "at idle u-turn" as I almost did the same thing.......keep your feet up!

I did that ONCE on a Kawasaki and had the right saddle bag bite my heal...ooooofffffff, that hurt!

I learned real quick with the AE to keep the trottle and trans engaged and feather the rear brake nice and smooth and all is well.

 

[Midnite Rider]

I like my AE alot. they only issue I have is doing at idle uturns. It wants to disengage in the turn and has tried to drop my on my ass. Now I look like a noob as I put my foot down to keep from dropping it when it does that
Other than that, Totally different than my other bikes. Fun as hell too

Here is why "I" bought the AE

1. It was the only one I could find that I could have that day. Seriously, I would have bought either one but I wanted one now. :clapping:

Keep the RPM up so that it doesn't try to go into neutral and feather the rear brake, you should find that will solve the problem of super slow u-turns

 

[Cdogman]

+1 on the "at idle u-turn" as I almost did the same thing.......keep your feet up!
I did that ONCE on a Kawasaki and had the right saddle bag bite my heal...ooooofffffff, that hurt!

I learned real quick with the AE to keep the trottle and trans engaged and feather the rear brake nice and smooth and all is well.

Then, later this week, when the weather clears, i shall practice that across the street at the church. I got in the habit of at idle U Turns riding my wing. That 1800 CC beast pulls like a truck and it was never a problem."Feather rear brake" I love to practice new stuff. >> Runs off to practice

 

[HC3]

When cold and the throttle is applied the clutch tends to shudder unless you really ease into the throttle. After warm up the shudder goes away.

Anyone know if it is a dry clutch or a wet clutch. (I'm pretty sure Dry, though I have never looked) A dry clutch will allow condensation to form a lite layer of rust overnight which will be grabby and shudder but is quickly wiped away after a couple of engagements. The difference in it occurring or not has more to do with temp and humidity and whether any moisture has gotten to the clutch.

Just a thought. <_<

 

[Cdogman]

Hmmm Dunno, Mine does the same thing though. I never really give it much thought since it only happens at first go, and not all the time

You can adjust the RPM the clutch engages through the computer. Get a copy of the service manual and you experiment around and find what works best for you.

I need to look at this. I got the manual but have not looked it up

 

[radman]

Anyone know if it is a dry clutch or a wet clutch. (I'm pretty sure Dry, though I have never looked) A dry clutch will allow condensation to form a lite layer of rust overnight which will be grabby and shudder but is quickly wiped away after a couple of engagements. The difference in it occurring or not has more to do with temp and humidity and whether any moisture has gotten to the clutch.
Just a thought. <_<

It's wet, like most bike clutches. And, the shudder will likely disappear with miles, as most have, at least this has been the case with the non AE's. Try shifting it as fast as you can on the centerstand for an hour or so...........

 

[Cdogman]

Anyone know if it is a dry clutch or a wet clutch. (I'm pretty sure Dry, though I have never looked) A dry clutch will allow condensation to form a lite layer of rust overnight which will be grabby and shudder but is quickly wiped away after a couple of engagements. The difference in it occurring or not has more to do with temp and humidity and whether any moisture has gotten to the clutch.

Just a thought. <_<

It's wet, like most bike clutches. And, the shudder will likely disappear with miles, as most have, at least this has been the case with the non AE's. Try shifting it as fast as you can on the centerstand for an hour or so...........

LMAO :yahoo:

 

[polarnut]

Hi All, Newbie and first post. I am a new AE owner. Picked up bike less than two weeks ago. Fist ride was 912mi. to get it home. Reading back on this post, I am wondering, my bike was one of the late 06 releases. The factory had already fixed the speedo and the electric shift mount before I took possesion. My bike engages very smoothly and shifts just fine. Take off is somewhere between 1300 and 1500rpm depending on situation. it is absolutely not a problem. Turnarounds are (to me) no different, balance is everything riding bikes, and besides the lower engagement keeps the bike in gear on most turnarounds or parking lot situations. Upshifts/downshifts are quick and effortless. The benefits in stop and go traffic are worth every penny and was one of my main reasons for looking into this model.

As is with all other FJR owners, stock windshield MUST go for touring riding. One question on my first post, there is so much winshield talk, but none regarding the pillion protection. Which shield protects both rieder and passenger?

 

[radman]

As is with all other FJR owners, stock windshield MUST go for touring riding. One question on my first post, there is so much winshield talk, but none regarding the pillion protection. Which shield protects both rieder and passenger?

The one on a 66 Fleetwood Eldorado Convert. Other than that, the shield would have to be 48" tall to help the pillion.

 

[jaster]

I'm experiencing the shudder problem on take-off also. It happens only on the first mile or so of travel after a cold start-up. This didn't start happening until I had over 6,000 miles on the bike. It is such a minor issue I haven't contacted my dealer about it yet.

 

[Silverbullet]

Mine did it from day 1. Sunnyside contacted Yamaha and they had them try bleeding it. It didn't make any difference. I've got 10,000 miles on it now, and it is still just the same. It only does it the first time I accellerate away on the bike after it has sat overnight, or at work all day. I'm not to worried about it, and probably even less so knowing that I'm not the only one.

 

[BeeLine]

I like up-shifting without using a clutch and have been doing so for years. This, the AE does very well, as well a decent down shifts. When slowing down, I get the smoothest down shifts if I leave the throttle on. Normally, though, I want to roll the throttle off to slow down. This is, of course, why we blip the throttle for downshifts with a standard clutch. When up-shifting between first and second, there is too much clutch slippage if I am at all aggressive with the power. The same is true to a lesser extent between second and third.

Hello Dick,

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this topic. I found it in a search looking for this very issue. I have experienced the same problem on my AE with clutch slippage between 1st and 2nd gear when accelerating hard.

I have found that if I let the RPMs wind up a little higher before shifting the slippage doesn’t occur which leads me to think that I was short shifting and instead of lugging the massive torque of the FJR just slips the clutch.

I am concerned though if it happens a few more times the clutch could get damaged. Have you (or anyone else) had any long term problems with your clutch under these conditions?

Thanks

 

[Cdogman]

I like up-shifting without using a clutch and have been doing so for years. This, the AE does very well, as well a decent down shifts. When slowing down, I get the smoothest down shifts if I leave the throttle on. Normally, though, I want to roll the throttle off to slow down. This is, of course, why we blip the throttle for downshifts with a standard clutch. When up-shifting between first and second, there is too much clutch slippage if I am at all aggressive with the power. The same is true to a lesser extent between second and third.

Hello Dick,

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this topic. I found it in a search looking for this very issue. I have experienced the same problem on my AE with clutch slippage between 1st and 2nd gear when accelerating hard.

I have found that if I let the RPMs wind up a little higher before shifting the slippage doesn't occur which leads me to think that I was short shifting and instead of lugging the massive torque of the FJR just slips the clutch.

I am concerned though if it happens a few more times the clutch could get damaged. Have you (or anyone else) had any long term problems with your clutch under these conditions?

Thanks

I ride pretty agressive on my AE fairly often.

When shifting up between any gears practice dumping the power for the very very breifest of instants just like you would with a normal clutch. My AE engages almost instantly and far faster than I can manually on my other bike. The bike does not unsettle at all once I got it just right. It takes practice but what in life does not??

Anyway, that works for me. on my bike

 

[BeeLine]

I ride pretty agressive on my AE fairly often.
When shifting up between any gears practice dumping the power for the very very breifest of instants just like you would with a normal clutch. My AE engages almost instantly and far faster than I can manually on my other bike. The bike does not unsettle at all once I got it just right. It takes practice but what in life does not??

Anyway, that works for me. on my bike

Gave it a try on my way into work with good results. When I was first getting used to the YCCS I was 'speed shifting' with the throttle held open and it actually worked really well but then I read the manual which said not to do that. Looks like I was over compensating the other way which caused the clutch slippage. The quick blip on the throttle worked though. BTW if you bring it close to redline, blib the throttle and shift make sure your weight is forward over the tank! Fun stuff!

Thanks.

 

[Cdogman]

I ride pretty agressive on my AE fairly often.
SNIP

BTW if you bring it close to redline, blib the throttle and shift make sure your weight is forward over the tank! Fun stuff!

Thanks.

You OBVIOUSLY do not weigh as much as I do :glare: JFWY

 

[BeeLine]

You OBVIOUSLY do not weigh as much as I do :glare: JFWY

Wasn't exactly extreme cycling but could defiantly feel the front end get light. BTW I have my share of ballast, just had to 'upgrade' to a size 36 after my old leathers 'shrunk'

Hopefully I haven't fried my clutch. So far so good.

 

[scott_807]

It's a different system. Throttling while feathering rear brake makes it easier.

You want to be doing u-turns at engagement point, not idle.

+1 on about being slightly on the throttle with a little rear brake. The throttle brake combo replaces the clutch/front brake combo for a lock out turn. It can be done!

On the "shudder starts" - yes until it warms up. Have been riding at 5-30 degrees for the past month and it can take a while. Until then either a light start or a hard start will get you out of it. Am having my break in service done this week - look forward to trying the harder launches. Have a buddy with a ST13 - we'll have a few opportunities to compare, I'm sure.

 

[Cdogman]

You OBVIOUSLY do not weigh as much as I do :glare: JFWY

Wasn't exactly extreme cycling but could defiantly feel the front end get light. BTW I have my share of ballast, just had to 'upgrade' to a size 36 after my old leathers 'shrunk'

Hopefully I haven't fried my clutch. So far so good.

UPGRADE to a 36, LMAO Dont even talk to me you skinny little thing Phuk.............. Naw, yer clutch is proly ok...... sheeeiiit

 

[2006FJR]

I too have had the shudder problems on launch but it quickly goes away. I rode 2 new 06' AEs and one had a much bigger problem that DID NOT go away so I picked the other bike. I was happy the dealership let me ride both bikes first. I get a pretty good launch on the AE but I need to use the rear brake if I really want to launch the bike hard and then the front end gets very light if I do not lean forward. I have also had a problem ONCE where the bike was in 4th gear at a stop and when I tried to down shift I got an error light and the bike died and would not start again. I had to call the dealership to get me picked up and take it to the shop with only 200 miles on it. I was told it was lack of amps and that they did not allow enough time for the battery to charge when they prepped the bike at the dealership and this is what caused the issue. Slow speed turns are a little tricky but once I started using the rear brake ever so slightly when the bike in engaged it works perfectly now. It just took a little getting used to, but now I do not think I could ever go back to the older style bikes with a "hand clutch". I love my AE!!