06 AE stuck in 3rd gear

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Jim Griffin

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Location
Birmingham, AL
Hello Guys,

This afternoon, while riding my 2006 AE, the bike stuck in 3rd gear. I tried to down shift using the grip shifter and as I stopped at an intersection the engine quit, still in 3rd. I tried the foot shifter and nothing would free it up. Several guys came by and we pushed it, in gear, engine turning over, out of the road and into a cul-de sac. With a tad over 300 miles on the bike, I didn't expect this.

I checked all the fuses which were ok, rocked it back and forth, worked both the grip and foot shifter, disconnected and reconnected the battery, cycled the power off and on, checked all the grip switches and nothing worked. The dash lights up, clock works, emergency flashers and turn signals work.

A friend had a high dollar cycle trailer that lowers itself to the ground. He brought it over and four of us pushed it onto the trailer. It will be Tuesday before I can deliver it to our local Yamaha dealer here in Birmingham, AL. This is a dangerous situation and could have been a real disaster if the rear wheel had locked in a lower gear.

The bike has a few mods but nothing that should have caused this. The bike has helibars, sliders, autocom intercom, Corbin heated seats, a taller windshield and Throttle Meister heavy bar ends.

It ran nornmally for the first mile after leaving the house, shifting fine with nothing out of the ordinary going on.

I am wondering if any of you have an idea of what might be going on or have experienced this before.

Jim Griffin

Birmingham, AL

 
Hmmmmm. Did you have the 'YCCS recall' done? Maybe your shifter is actually kaput. Did you try reading the manual, disconnecting the electric shift armature and then manually shifting the bike with your hand? I think you should give that a try, just to see where you stand. Maybe you'll get lucky and just find that something is loose there or out of adjustment.

 
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Matt,

I didn't have the manual with me on the bike. I just bought the bike several weeks ago with 7 miles on it.

I have looked over everything that I can get to and nothing looks loose or disconnected.

The recall may be the answer.

Jim

 
Jim,

Check the recall for the YCCS. Did we meet at the Acura dealer in Hoover? If so; I told you about that recall. Let me know if I can be of assistance and good luck w/ the bike.

 
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OK ...Sorry. AE's are showing up in droves in the B'ham area. I always end up sticking my nose in people's business.

 
Hmmmmm. Did you have the 'YCCS recall' done? Maybe your shifter is actually kaput. Did you try reading the manual, disconnecting the electric shift armature and then manually shifting the bike with your hand? I think you should give that a try, just to see where you stand. Maybe you'll get lucky and just find that something is loose there or out of adjustment.
I did not know about these 2006 AE recalls. They were found as a result of this posting. #1 Below is about the Owners manual for the AE shifter in an emergency. #2 is for an incorrect display of Instaneous fuel mileage per gallon.

Hope others find this useful. I know the owners manual was changed but nothing about the fuel display. Any others know about this until now??

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Search Results

Report Date : February 11, 2007 at 08:23 PM

SEARCH TYPE : VEHICLE

YEAR : 2006

Make : YAMAHA

Model : FJR1300AE

Results : 2 | All records displayed

Make : YAMAHA Model : FJR1300AE Year : 2006

Manufacturer : YAMAHA MOTOR CORPORATION, USA

Service Bulletin Num : 2006012 Date of Bulletin: SEP 01, 2006

NHTSA Item Number: 10020341

Component: POWER TRAIN

Check to Request Research. Submit below. Get Summary

Make : YAMAHA Model : FJR1300AE Year : 2006

Manufacturer : YAMAHA MOTOR CORPORATION, USA

Service Bulletin Num : 2006010 Date of Bulletin: JUN 23, 2006

NHTSA Item Number: 10020172

Component: FUEL SYSTEM, OTHER

Check to Request Research. Submit below. Get Summary

NHTSA Home | ODI Home | Complaints | Defect Investigations | Recalls | Service Bulletins | Privacy Policy

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Jim,

Did you get the bike restarted? Did you make sure you had the hand brake pulled when you tried to restart or shift after being stopped? If your AE is stopped (or all but stopped) you have to have the brake lever " depressed" to shift. The bike computers know when the bike is stopped (or all but stopped) and makes applying the brake necessary to shift. (Don't ask me how I know this particular faux pax!)

If the sidestand is down, that could be a problem, too, if the bike already died in gear, and you try a restart.

That is another potential failure point in the system... sensors. If sensors aren't working or are out of adjustment, the YCCS won't operate.

The YCCS has a fuse under the "D" panel. It's #6... a 30 amp fuse on the inboard bank of fuses. That's another possibility.

If the YCCS has failed, you are supposed to be able to disconnect the shift armature from the electric servo over the top of the crankcase and then manually shift by hand.

Does it sound like the bike is trying to shift? Hear any clicks from the servo when you operate either the finger shift or the foot shift with the brake depressed? If it doesn't click, either the system won't let you shift (brake, speed, or sidestand sensors) or the system is dead (hopefully only a fuse).

Sometimes my bike will click, but not shift. I usually have to rock the bike a bit and apply the hand brake (with the sidestand up). Then it usually shifts like it's supposed to.

Even if the engine isn't running, you should be able to shift back to neutral (or any other gear) as long as the key is on and the brake depressed. The bike IS able to start in gear, with the brake applied and the sidestand up. That's why it's a good idea to NEVER rev (or let anyone else REV) your throttle. The bike can lurch out from under you when the clutch does finally engage.

Turbo Dave, et al,

... from the "Bin O Facts", a recall issued on early FJRs:

Recall/Technical Service Bulletin Info:

15-Aug-2006, Bulletin M2006-012.
Affects only AE models, Range: 0006 - 0327, and 0011 - 0079 California
Part Information: Part Number: 90891-20120-00 ( a kit with 2 brackets, 2 nuts, 4 bolts, 6 drill bits, and a spline to 3/8" drive indicating torque wrench adapter.)

Test Part: Pull left side cover and air box cover. Pull shift linkage from the actuator. Use the adapter to install an indicating torque wrench (or torque analyzer) -- most will use a 2-beam torque wrench. Check for movement clockwise and counter-clockwise with 29 ft-lbs of torque (never exceed 29 ft-lbs). If the shaft moves -- replace the actuator assembly.


 



Install brackets (2): Pull shift actuator. Lower the rear shock remote adjuster (3 nuts). Drill out the threads to 8mm on the actuators rear mount hole (ONLY ONE HOLE). Install bracket to the inside of the frame with longer provided bolt. Install bracket 2 to aft mounting hole with the bracket stud installed in the sub-frame crossover plate (existing hole). (Do not know what the torques are -- see your dealer for a copy of the bulletin). Re-install actuator shift arm to the shaft and adjust according to service manual.)
 
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Matt,

I tried pretty much everything that I have read about or you would normally check and got no results. The side stand was up, brake was on, fuses OK, etc. I did not tear into the bike at this point. It's already on the trailer (by shear brute force) and ready to go to the Yamaha dealer tomorrow. With so few miles on it and considering that I bought it with 7 miles total, I would imagine that none of the recalls have been done. I guess I feel like the dealer needs to see it stuck in gear so that I can have a good reason to leave it there. I tried virtually everything I could think of plus all the items that others have mentioned to keep myself from looking like an idiot when I get there. You know, draging it to the dealer and having one of their mechanics flip one switch or lever and having it start right up is not cool.

I thought that I had possibly overloaded some electrical system with the intercom and the Corbin heated seats. This was my first ride with the seats both on heat.

I appreciate the suggestions from everyone.

Jim

 
Matt,I tried pretty much everything that I have read about or you would normally check and got no results. The side stand was up, brake was on, fuses OK, etc. I did not tear into the bike at this point. It's already on the trailer (by shear brute force) and ready to go to the Yamaha dealer tomorrow. With so few miles on it and considering that I bought it with 7 miles total, I would imagine that none of the recalls have been done. I guess I feel like the dealer needs to see it stuck in gear so that I can have a good reason to leave it there. I tried virtually everything I could think of plus all the items that others have mentioned to keep myself from looking like an idiot when I get there. You know, draging it to the dealer and having one of their mechanics flip one switch or lever and having it start right up is not cool.

I thought that I had possibly overloaded some electrical system with the intercom and the Corbin heated seats. This was my first ride with the seats both on heat.

I appreciate the suggestions from everyone.

Jim
The recall only affected some of the early bikes. Most were modified at the distributor before they ever reached dealers or customers. Yamaha customer relations can tell you if yours has had the shifter modification already done. The mod is just a strengthening of the bracket. The "problem" only occurs with heavy shifting abuse and is HIGHLY unlikely to be an issue on a low mile bike.

 
Jim,
Did you get the bike restarted? Did you make sure you had the hand brake pulled when you tried to restart or shift after being stopped? If your AE is stopped (or all but stopped) you have to have the brake lever " depressed" to shift. The bike computers know when the bike is stopped (or all but stopped) and makes applying the brake necessary to shift. (Don't ask me how I know this particular faux pax!)

If the sidestand is down, that could be a problem, too, if the bike already died in gear, and you try a restart.

That is another potential failure point in the system... sensors. If sensors aren't working or are out of adjustment, the YCCS won't operate.

The YCCS has a fuse under the "D" panel. It's #6... a 30 amp fuse on the inboard bank of fuses. That's another possibility.

If the YCCS has failed, you are supposed to be able to disconnect the shift armature from the electric servo over the top of the crankcase and then manually shift by hand.

Does it sound like the bike is trying to shift? Hear any clicks from the servo when you operate either the finger shift or the foot shift with the brake depressed? If it doesn't click, either the system won't let you shift (brake, speed, or sidestand sensors) or the system is dead (hopefully only a fuse).

Sometimes my bike will click, but not shift. I usually have to rock the bike a bit and apply the hand brake (with the sidestand up). Then it usually shifts like it's supposed to.

Even if the engine isn't running, you should be able to shift back to neutral (or any other gear) as long as the key is on and the brake depressed. The bike IS able to start in gear, with the brake applied and the sidestand up. That's why it's a good idea to NEVER rev (or let anyone else REV) your throttle. The bike can lurch out from under you when the clutch does finally engage.

Turbo Dave, et al,

... from the "Bin O Facts", a recall issued on early FJRs:

Recall/Technical Service Bulletin Info:

15-Aug-2006, Bulletin M2006-012.
Affects only AE models, Range: 0006 - 0327, and 0011 - 0079 California
Part Information: Part Number: 90891-20120-00 ( a kit with 2 brackets, 2 nuts, 4 bolts, 6 drill bits, and a spline to 3/8" drive indicating torque wrench adapter.)

Test Part: Pull left side cover and air box cover. Pull shift linkage from the actuator. Use the adapter to install an indicating torque wrench (or torque analyzer) -- most will use a 2-beam torque wrench. Check for movement clockwise and counter-clockwise with 29 ft-lbs of torque (never exceed 29 ft-lbs). If the shaft moves -- replace the actuator assembly.


 



Install brackets (2): Pull shift actuator. Lower the rear shock remote adjuster (3 nuts). Drill out the threads to 8mm on the actuators rear mount hole (ONLY ONE HOLE). Install bracket to the inside of the frame with longer provided bolt. Install bracket 2 to aft mounting hole with the bracket stud installed in the sub-frame crossover plate (existing hole). (Do not know what the torques are -- see your dealer for a copy of the bulletin). Re-install actuator shift arm to the shaft and adjust according to service manual.)
Matt, thanks, I failed to remember that recall. I had it done and so far no problem with it.

 
This afternoon, while riding my 2006 AE, the bike stuck in 3rd gear. I am wondering if any of you have an idea of what might be going on or have experienced this before.
Did you have any error code on the dash display? That's the first thing I would look for. There's a good self-diagnostic system built-in.

This is a dangerous situation and could have been a real disaster if the rear wheel had locked in a lower gear.
When the transmission locks in gear, that gear is still useable. So if it locks in 3rd, you can ride around in that gear. Of course, if you need to slow down enough to stall it, your ride comes to an end. Typically, by switching the ignition on and off the system re-sets. But whatever problem caused the lock does not go away. I've dealt with this. If ignition cycling does not re-set it, it may be something that requires servicing.

Bruno

Montreal, Canada

https://pages.videotron.com/mcrides

Gerbing Cascade Extreme jacket review

:

 
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When the transmission locks in gear, that gear is still useable. So if it locks in 3rd, you can ride around in that gear. Of course, if you need to slow down enough to stall it, your ride comes to an end. Typically, by switching the ignition on and off the system re-sets. But whatever problem caused the lock does not go away. I've dealt with this. If ignition cycling does not re-set it, it may be something that requires servicing.

the problem is that once it does stop in third gear, it will not allow you to re start the engine.

please keep us posted as to the cause of this problem...

jason

 
When the transmission locks in gear, that gear is still useable. So if it locks in 3rd, you can ride around in that gear. Of course, if you need to slow down enough to stall it, your ride comes to an end. Typically, by switching the ignition on and off the system re-sets. But whatever problem caused the lock does not go away. I've dealt with this. If ignition cycling does not re-set it, it may be something that requires servicing.

the problem is that once it does stop in third gear, it will not allow you to re start the engine.

please keep us posted as to the cause of this problem...

jason
I have started my engine in 3rd and second gear many times. :blink: But the engine was not STUCK in a gear, with the clutch not engaging electrically. Just wanted to clear that up. Normally, you can start an AE in any gear.

Which is why I thought the procedure was then to disconnect the servo arm and manually shift back to neutral and start over? Man, I hope it's nothing catastrophic in there...

I think this is the first instance of reporting a problem on the AE to this degree, so I'm as anxious as everyone to hear the outcome.

--10K happy miles, early (#128) AE that has not had the recall performed. Yet.

 
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When the transmission locks in gear, that gear is still useable. So if it locks in 3rd, you can ride around in that gear. Of course, if you need to slow down enough to stall it, your ride comes to an end. Typically, by switching the ignition on and off the system re-sets. But whatever problem caused the lock does not go away. I've dealt with this. If ignition cycling does not re-set it, it may be something that requires servicing.

the problem is that once it does stop in third gear, it will not allow you to re start the engine.

please keep us posted as to the cause of this problem...

jason


I think this is the first instance of reporting a problem on the AE to this degree, so I'm as anxious as everyone to hear the outcome.

-
This is the second I've read. It was either earlier on this forum or the Euro board. Same problem, the owner also had to load it up to the dealer.

 
When the transmission locks in gear, that gear is still useable. So if it locks in 3rd, you can ride around in that gear. Of course, if you need to slow down enough to stall it, your ride comes to an end. Typically, by switching the ignition on and off the system re-sets. But whatever problem caused the lock does not go away. I've dealt with this. If ignition cycling does not re-set it, it may be something that requires servicing.

the problem is that once it does stop in third gear, it will not allow you to re start the engine.

please keep us posted as to the cause of this problem...

jason


I think this is the first instance of reporting a problem on the AE to this degree, so I'm as anxious as everyone to hear the outcome.

-
This is the second I've read. It was either earlier on this forum or the Euro board. Same problem, the owner also had to load it up to the dealer.
Highlander, you remember anything about the outcome of the other instance? (figured you would have chimed in about it already if you did). I don't frequent the other boards any more.

Still standing by for a post dealership report...

 
Hello Guys,

Here's the latest news on my 2006 AE. I trailered the bike up to D & H in Cullman, AL this morning and met with several of their mechanics. They had not seen or heard of this problem before. After 20 minutes of basic diagonistic work and manually getting it in neutral there was no answer. The bike won't start in neutral although the dash lights up and has the usual look. Nick seems to think it may be a major electrical (ECU) type problem. He said that he has seen some strange stuff go on. One of their new customer bikes had the transmission actually lock up due to a missing circlip in the transmission. The guy flew in to Cullman, decided to put some miles on the bike before heading home and it locked up with 70 total miles. They worked with Yamaha to resolve the issue and got him going, but not before tearing into the new tranny and finding the missing part.

I was surprised by D&H. It's a small country bike store, with really good people running it and working in the shop. I was prepared to see "Bike World of the South" when I headed up there this morning. The shop guys seemed really interested in figuring this out. They said that they sold 100 FJR1300's last year and 19 already this year. Must be doing a lot of things right.

I will keep the group posted on any news I hear.

Jim Griffin

 
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ok... the 'recall' should have nothing to do with this -- I think the posts are referencing TSB M2006-012 (Technical Service Bulletin) which was a reliability enhancement for the shift mechanism, and all later manufactured '06's have it from the factory.

Also -- this problem sounds like a clutch disengagement issue, and the TSB deals with the shift servo mount.

(*) There is info in the service manual (page 3-4) on how to get the bike back in to neutral -- you have to put it on the centerstand rock the rear tire while manually actuating the shift foot lever.

(*) Owners manual (page 3-28) has the basic diagnostics... not sure where this would lead or what the results were if it were followed.

I would agree that the YCCS ECU could be at fault, or any of the sensors needed to signal the ECU to 'pull' the clutch.

but would have many questions -- even simple stuff like checking the clutch fluid level, and the system has no air in it.?

any more details? I would be really interested in what the root cause of this is.

 
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