Fencer
Why yes, I am a Smart ASS
I hope you're a Lady cause thats just my right leg
. I'm 240 and haven't touched the factory setting yet and have only drug? (dragged) my toes a few times.
'06 Dragging Footpegs
- Thread starter sierrabus
- Start date
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. I'm 240 and haven't touched the factory setting yet and have only drug? (dragged) my toes a few times.
jayshaw91
Well-known member
Man, I don't know if I should be pissed or not!
Be insulted... :angry: thank him for the pics of the hot college ass... :dribble:
Be insulted... :angry: thank him for the pics of the hot college ass... :dribble:
Be insulted... :angry: thank him for the pics of the hot college ass... :dribble:
I'm so torn!
Joe2Lmaker
Well-known member
I'm not sure what you mean.Since I don't know you, I don't know if that means anything.
It's all in fun............................. unless it's game day in Columbus.
I was at the game last year & had a great time in AA.
daviddowns2000
Well-known member
Silverbullet
Well-known member
That pic will help keep your peg from draggin. :blink:
In10city
Well-known member
Well I took my (new to me) 2005 FJR home Friday and already drug my right peg yesterday. I set the preload setting to "Hard" and turned out the rebound 10 clicks. I've left the fronts alone for now but it still feels pretty soft. Should I turn the rebound all the way up and harden up the fronts as well?
I'm taking my wife and a tent to the mountains this weekend and should probably make sure I'm at least close to dialed in with the extra weight but I don't want to shake our kidneys loose or anything. Any suggestions?
I'm taking my wife and a tent to the mountains this weekend and should probably make sure I'm at least close to dialed in with the extra weight but I don't want to shake our kidneys loose or anything. Any suggestions?
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sierrabus
Member
Just to clarify, are you saying that you are using sportrider suspension setting, but have backed off on only the compression damping on the forks a few clicks and now all is good?Since I don't know you, I don't know if that means anything.
I scrape my pegs all the time on my '06. I've just gotten used to it; I can certainly lean this bike over farther before I scrape the pegs than I could my Thunderbird, so I've had lots of experience scraping. I've set my shocks to the sportrider.com recommendations, and in fact found the front shock to be *too* stiff, as I was getting harsh jars from road bumps on tour, even 2-up. Remember, they upped the spring rate on the '06 forks. Backing off the compression damping a few clicks made all that go away and now the front is smooth as buttah; I still have the preload cranked down. Even when riding solo and the rear set to 2-up ("hard"), I still scrape pegs. I might crank the pre-load up a bit more by tightening the lock rings, though the only thing pre-load affects is static sag, NOT compression in hard cornering. compression damping would help that, but of course compression damping is not adjustable on the rear shock. Either way, I hit the pegs plenty, and have about 3/8" of chicken-strips left on each side of the rear tire.
I agree here completely; hanging off lets you keep the bike more upright, so you scrape less. Even so, I managed to scrape the pegs hanging off while riding the Dragon and the Cherohala Skyway.
Do you mind me asking your weight?
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mindtrip
Well-known member
You should do some reading about suspension settings. Preload only affects static sag, though may help raise the bike up some (ie less sag means farther distance to go before bottoming). Too little rebound damping and the bike will generally feel "springy"; too much rebound damping and you may start to bottom out the suspension as compaction occurs (ie, the shock or fork isn't able to rebound out to it's full length and 'reset' itself for the next bump), making the ride feel harsh. More compression damping in the front will likely help; too little compression damping and the fork may again feel 'bouncy' or may bottom out on big hits; too much compression damping and the fork will feel 'stiff' and harsh, that is, you'll feel the front end of the bike rise up and a harsh jarring in the bars every time you hit a bump or crack in the road. It will likely take some time to dial in the right settings; I started with the sportrider.com recommendations and then backed off the compression damping by 3-4 clicks in the fork, and have had good results thus far. It *definitely* rides better than at stock settings. I still drag my pegs though.
I'm not a suspension expert, thus read the first sentence of this post again. I am, however a scientist, and try to think this through logically.
For reference: I weigh 185 lbs; my girlfriend weighs 135 lbs (and was with me on the trip), and we had probably 40-50 lbs of gear on the bike (when you figure our small tent, sleeping bags/pads, clothes, and some electronics [psp, phone, ipods, etc]) on this trip. Right when we got back I pulled my seat off and sent it to billmayersaddles.com for a custom job, so I can't tell you how it rides one-up with these settings.
I started with the sportrider settings, then did some reading about suspension settings. On my last trip to the Dragon over the July 4th weekend, I paid close attention while on country roads and the interstate, and found the compression damping to be set too high based on the sportrider suggestions; this makes sense when you factor in a stiffer spring rate. I backed off the compression damping 3-4 clicks and it was much better; I did find that in 'valley' bumps (that is, when going over the interstate where there were gaps in the pavement) the front was dipping a bit, so I backed off on rebound damping a few clicks and that also helped. The model in my mind on that trip was that ideally, the bike should float along and never change height when moving straight, and only the wheels should move as the swingarm/fork respond to their combination of preload, rebound and compression damping, and spring rate to keep the body of the bike (and me and GF and gear) vertically still. Pay attention to when the bike is moving away from a still vertical position, try to figure out if the initial movement is up or down, and then think about why it might be doing that. Form a hypothesis, alter a setting a little bit, then try again.
I'm not a suspension expert, thus read the first sentence of this post again. I am, however a scientist, and try to think this through logically.For reference: I weigh 185 lbs; my girlfriend weighs 135 lbs (and was with me on the trip), and we had probably 40-50 lbs of gear on the bike (when you figure our small tent, sleeping bags/pads, clothes, and some electronics [psp, phone, ipods, etc]) on this trip. Right when we got back I pulled my seat off and sent it to billmayersaddles.com for a custom job, so I can't tell you how it rides one-up with these settings.
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bobby
Well-known member
I find the pegs drag pretty easy too. For me it's not a bad thing considering one of the reasons I bought this bike was to slow down. I'm 230 lbs with gear and the suspension is stock. Nothing about the handling has made me want to change anything. I ride with the soft setting solo and hard setting two up. Talking about two up - I've never rode a bike that was better in the turns with a passenger onboard.
The Feejer's a keeper.
Bobby
sierrabus
Member
Appreciate you taking the time to explain the suspension settings in practical terms. Sounds like there's no easy way to dial in optimum settings except to take the time and do it in a systematic fashion.
In any event, whatever the suspension settings, the FJR is not meant to be a sportbike or a BMW and is always going to drag the pegs.
Thanks all.
In any event, whatever the suspension settings, the FJR is not meant to be a sportbike or a BMW and is always going to drag the pegs.
Thanks all.
temp357
Well-known member
Or get a bmw with ESA? :derisive:
FJRocket
Doctor Throckenstein !!!
Hmmmm... my FJR never drags footpegs. I must have a problem.... I'm going to have to work on that! :yahoo:
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