lnewlf
Well-known member
Nice mcatrophy-printed that puppy right away!
06 Stalls when put in gear
- Thread starter S76
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
Givin' it serious consideration. Like you, I am a cheap-ass bastage, also like you it's mostly of extreme necessity. Dropping the rear tire expense by a factor of 3 or 4 has definite appeal!
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
QUOTE (Lowcountry Joe @ Mar 21 2010, 01:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
...I wish someone with your level of detail and clarity would totally re-write the whole darn service manual. It's the priciest POS I have ever seen. Just a sorry excuse for a service manual....
Unless i do a job myself, I couldn't hope to do better than the manual. But, when I do work on the bike (or almost anything else, for that matter), I take lots of pictures. A couple of jobs on the FJR are fairing removal and soaking the clutch. I've posted links to these on this forum here and here. Oh, yes, my TBS here, and a few pics of front brake pad removal (part of my wheel removal record) in amongst this lot.
For any more, I guess you'll have to wait until I have another problem
.
QUOTE (Lowcountry Joe @ Mar 21 2010, 01:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
...Good job on the schematic. Maybe you could crank us out one per month?
Every time I look at the diagram, I want to re-organise it. I did a super-simplified heated grip circuit after a query by FJRBandit. So, I'm trying.
If I do do any more, I'll post up here. If anyone has any particular problem areas, perhaps I'll have a go, but I only have the original diagram for the USA '06 AE, though most is common to all Gen IIs.
All requests considered, all PMs read, but no promises. Lots of Honey-Dos to be done
. Spring has sprung ...
Incidentally, the hits on my web server
have increased about ten-fold since I posted my clutch soak, so hopefully it's helping someone.
...I wish someone with your level of detail and clarity would totally re-write the whole darn service manual. It's the priciest POS I have ever seen. Just a sorry excuse for a service manual....
Unless i do a job myself, I couldn't hope to do better than the manual. But, when I do work on the bike (or almost anything else, for that matter), I take lots of pictures. A couple of jobs on the FJR are fairing removal and soaking the clutch. I've posted links to these on this forum here and here. Oh, yes, my TBS here, and a few pics of front brake pad removal (part of my wheel removal record) in amongst this lot.
For any more, I guess you'll have to wait until I have another problem
QUOTE (Lowcountry Joe @ Mar 21 2010, 01:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
...Good job on the schematic. Maybe you could crank us out one per month?
Every time I look at the diagram, I want to re-organise it. I did a super-simplified heated grip circuit after a query by FJRBandit. So, I'm trying.
If I do do any more, I'll post up here. If anyone has any particular problem areas, perhaps I'll have a go, but I only have the original diagram for the USA '06 AE, though most is common to all Gen IIs.
All requests considered, all PMs read, but no promises. Lots of Honey-Dos to be done
Incidentally, the hits on my web server
Last edited by a moderator:
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Just remember, there IS a difference between being "cheap" and "poor".Givin' it serious consideration. Like you, I am a cheap-ass bastage, also like you it's mostly of extreme necessity. Dropping the rear tire expense by a factor of 3 or 4 has definite appeal!
I'm both!
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
The service manual is more of a checklist for a trained service tech, and not a "how-to" for us Joe Blows off the street.
I've found that when hitting something for the first time, If the service manual confuses me, i.e. it says "Remove blinker fluid tank A" and I don't know how to remove blinker fluid tank A, I can hit the parts fiche and get exploded diagrams, including fastener locations. Sometimes that makes things much clearer than the manual alone.
I could wish the diagrams were per circuit, a page for the running lights, a page for the ignition, a page for the injectors, a page for the starter, etc., with +12 at the top of the page and ground at the bottom, like most automotive wiring diagrams. I've given due consideration to doing a set of those for my '03, but rejected the idea as useless, since I can read the one I have.
That's what I meant by "extreme necessity!"Just remember, there IS a difference between being "cheap" and "poor".
I'm both!
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S76
Well-known member
Just wanted to post a follow up to the side stand dilema to close the loop.
Took about 2 weeks for the fuel pump/sidestand circuit relay to come, yesterday. I installed it this morning and unplugged the work around wire at the ECU. It works as advertised.
But why did this happen to begin with? Nobody else is reporting this type of failure so it has to be unique to my bike and not a systematic problem. I initially thought that it may have something (don't know what) to do with the additional spider grounds I installed. But later I remembered that when I hooked the battery charger up I had crossed the wires for just a split second. Enought to make a small spark. Diodes pretty much don't like this I'm guessing.
In hind sight I think that may have been the cause.
How did I do something so stupid? It wasn't hard. I bought a slime pump and connected the short fused pigtail it comes with to the battery and left the pigtail plug where I could get at it if I needed the the pump. Then I decided to charge the battery. Well, the slime pump also comes with another pigtail with alligator clips to go directly to the battery. So I plugged it into the installed plug and connected those alligator clips to the clips on the charger. Basically I was using this pigtial in reverse. And reverse it was. When the pigtails are plugged together it connects black to red, and this is how I sparked off the battery. That is most likely the cause of this problem, I think.
Live and learn.
Took about 2 weeks for the fuel pump/sidestand circuit relay to come, yesterday. I installed it this morning and unplugged the work around wire at the ECU. It works as advertised.
But why did this happen to begin with? Nobody else is reporting this type of failure so it has to be unique to my bike and not a systematic problem. I initially thought that it may have something (don't know what) to do with the additional spider grounds I installed. But later I remembered that when I hooked the battery charger up I had crossed the wires for just a split second. Enought to make a small spark. Diodes pretty much don't like this I'm guessing.
In hind sight I think that may have been the cause.
How did I do something so stupid? It wasn't hard. I bought a slime pump and connected the short fused pigtail it comes with to the battery and left the pigtail plug where I could get at it if I needed the the pump. Then I decided to charge the battery. Well, the slime pump also comes with another pigtail with alligator clips to go directly to the battery. So I plugged it into the installed plug and connected those alligator clips to the clips on the charger. Basically I was using this pigtial in reverse. And reverse it was. When the pigtails are plugged together it connects black to red, and this is how I sparked off the battery. That is most likely the cause of this problem, I think.
Live and learn.
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
It's not the only one. Nitrotate's donor bike he's using for his trike had a bad starter interlock relay (two relays in that package, on unrelated circuits,) and his replacement relay box had the OTHER relay (fuel pump) bad in it!
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majicmaker
Well-known member
You electrical guys are Amazing!! :clapping:
I bow to your talents!! :fans: :drinks: :good:unk: :superman: :rockwoot:
I bow to your talents!! :fans: :drinks: :good:
unk: :superman: :rockwoot: Similar threads
