08 FJR R&R Clutch Plate Soak

[mcatrophy]

QUOTE (pjm204 @ Jun 23 2010, 09:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the reply. One thing I haven't seen a confirmed answer to is whether or not the oil needs to be drained. If it doesn't, I will do it now. I just did an oil change so I'd hate to waste it. Doesn't look like too tough of a job. I've had good luck re-using gaskets but I am a little nervous if the gasket rips...so I guess I better order one.

No oil drain required.

(Click on image for larger view)



Caption reads: Clutch cover off. Note, no oil drains out (bike's on the side-stand, so even residual oil won't seep out). Note the two dowel pins, 4-o'clock and 9 o-clock on the casing face. They just pull out. You may want to shove rag into that gaping hole into the crankcase to prevent losing bits in there.

I used a new gasket, but could probably get away with re-using the old, this picture shows the old one still on the cover.



If you want to see the state of the gasket in detail, click on the larger image (or click here), view it full size, and scroll round the cover edge, but note the picture is a large file (about 5 MBytes) so may take some time to load.

[edit] Just examined that photo, the original gasket does show damage top left in picture, probably not re-useable.

 

[Woketman]

Does the oil ever evaporate enough that you need to repeat the clutch soak (even if you do it once), after a number of years?

 

[Fred W]

Darned good question. (Not great one. Those I know the answer to. )

One would have to speculate that if you left the bike sitting idle for long enough (how long that is? Who knows...) the plates might stick together again.

OTOH, there has been some speculation that part of the original stickage issue was due to the plates (and rest of the engine) being dry on initial assembly except for assembly lube. So maybe not.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

...OTOH, there has been some speculation that part of the original stickage issue was due to the plates (and rest of the engine) being dry on initial assembly except for assembly lube. So maybe not.

New FJRs come crated complete with all fluids installed -- ready to run (after some minor assembly).

 

[Fred W]

...OTOH, there has been some speculation that part of the original stickage issue was due to the plates (and rest of the engine) being dry on initial assembly except for assembly lube. So maybe not.

New FJRs come crated complete with all fluids installed -- ready to run (after some minor assembly).

That's not what I said, or at least not what I meant.

The clutch parts are dry when they are assembled. They can not fill the engine with oil until the engine is fully assembled and in the frame. And they (apparently) do not pre-lube the clutch plates with oil.

 

[pjm204]

Well I ordered a clutch cover gasket so once it arrives, I am going to do the clutch soak. Worst case, I waste a little of my time. I am also going to lube the pivot points on the shifter.

 

[n1acguy]

Well I ordered a clutch cover gasket so once it arrives, I am going to do the clutch soak. Worst case, I waste a little of my time. I am also going to lube the pivot points on the shifter.

Clutch soak worked wonders for my 08. Bike never shifted right and didn't improve with miles. It got to the point that it would continue to pull in gear for a few seconds after I pulled the clutch in. Seems like once they're initially soaked right the little bit of oil splash that gets on the plates in normal use maintains it.

I second lubing the shift linkage, another point that was not properly lubed from the factory on my 08. My bike had never seen water, yet the linkage wasn't free enough to return to center consistently. If the shifter doesn't return freely to the center position you'll have shifting problems.

I didn't need a new gasket. Touched it up with some silicone in one spot, no leaks.

 

[pjm204]

My shifter does not return always. It will also continue to cruise along in certain gears with the clutch pulled in. So it sounds like a clutch soak, shifter pivot lube, and clutch master cylinder bleed will definitely help my situation.

 

[ABQFJR]

Thanks for the reply. One thing I haven't seen a confirmed answer to is whether or not the oil needs to be drained. If it doesn't, I will do it now. I just did an oil change so I'd hate to waste it. Doesn't look like too tough of a job. I've had good luck re-using gaskets but I am a little nervous if the gasket rips...so I guess I better order one.

Just one small addition to what others have already said here regarding the "will I lose oil when I remove the clutch cover" question...

I did this job last night on my '08 AE on the centerstand and I had absolutely NO oil ... nada ... none ... come out. To be clear, I had just done an oil change and the oil was filled to the top of the sight glass. Also, I had run the bike and then let it sit for an hour so all the oil could drain into the bottom of the engine. YMMV, but I doubt it.

 

[bigdaddy78]

Anyone try laying the bike on its side with the clutch in to soak the plates instead of taking it apart?

 

[HotRodZilla]

Anyone try laying the bike on its side with the clutch in to soak the plates instead of taking it apart?

As easy as it was to do the clutch soak, I woukdnt stress trying to lay my bike on its side without breaking something. I doubt it would work anyway...just my opinion though.

 

[ABQFJR]

Anyone try laying the bike on its side with the clutch in to soak the plates instead of taking it apart?

As easy as it was to do the clutch soak, I woukdnt stress trying to lay my bike on its side without breaking something. I doubt it would work anyway...just my opinion though.

+1

The job is super-easy. It literally took me 10 minutes to get the whole thing apart. It's also a valuable learning experience... I never knew how easy it was to replace the clutch pack on a motorcycle until I did this job.

 

[jefferskn]

I did the clutch soak Sunday night on my 05 FJR with 91K on it and it was pretty easy. I just followed the guide at the beginning of this thread and all went well. I did have some inconsistencies though with the guide. I did not have any pink or white dots on any of the plates, discs or rings. I just made sure I put them back in the same order and facing the right way that they came out it but there was nothing to mark the correct notch. Maybe after 91K the paint comes off the discs. My clutch plates were wet on the ends but 80% of the plates were bone dry. I was even able to reuse the gasket with zero leaks. The bike shifts much better, especially when really getting on it and trying to shift between 2nd & 3rd. Before when I would get on it and try to shift between 2nd & 3rd the shifter would not move up. I would have to let the clutch back out and than pull it back in and than it would shift. It was really annoying but that issue is now gone. I definitely recommend the soak for any shifting issues. It took care of my issues and I'm definitely glad I did it.

Jeffers,

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

I know this is a really old thread, but.....
I have been having horrible shifting issues, mostly with the bike not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th, or going into 4th for a second or two, then jumping back down to third. This problem started happening about a year ago, every once in a while, and recently has become way worse. Downshifts are always spot-on. I always use the clutch. The bike has ~88k miles on it, is a 2008 (not AE), and is ridden in a fairly sporty manner.
Before I pay to have the engine removed and checked for a bent shift fork, I thought I would take an inexpensive chance that a clutch soak might help, as some of the symptoms I have read match mine. Just got everything apart and soaking. BUT...
Upon disassembly, I noticed a discrepancy in the order that the parts were originally installed on my bike. In the original post (THANK YOU for the wonderful description and great pictures, by the way), the poster mentioned that after the last plate, there should be the conical ring followed by a flat ring. ON MY BIKE, (going from outside to in), after the last steel plate, there was the conical ring, then a friction plate, and THEN the final inner flat steel ring. So, on the inside, instead of a friction plate, then the two steel rings, the last friction plate was BETWEEN the conical ring and the steel ring. I have owned this bike since new, and the engine/clutch has never been opened. My question; Was this assembled wrong at the factory?
I understand that my bike has many miles on it, but I also know from research that the transmissions on these bikes, while sometimes clunky, are stoutly designed. I am hoping that something as simple as this clutch soak cures my problem, but I am not holding my breath. I just want to make sure I put the clutch back together in the proper, intended order.
Thank you, everyone, for your input and your patience.

 

[RossKean]

I have been having horrible shifting issues, mostly with the bike not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th, or going into 4th for a second or two, then jumping back down to third.

Good luck. The only other thing I might suggest is clean and re-lube shift linkage. Long shot but needs to be done anyway.

 

[08FJRSteve]

I know there are already great tutorials on this site, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to add another perspective on this. See attached

 

[RossKean]

I know there are already great tutorials on this site, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to add another perspective on this. See attached

VERY nicely done. Saved to my maintenance file.
Thank you!