08 won't start bad gas?

[4wlow]

This past week the FJR would not start. Turned over strong, but would not fire. Tried a couple of times over about a day and a half. Also tried starting with throttle slightly open. I have the Y.E.S warranty so I figured let the dealer mess with it. After three days at the dealer the final diagnosis was bad gas along with trouble code 22 which I was told had something to do with loose or disconnected wire with ABS. Of course this is not covered under Y.E.S and I now owe a little over $200. I am wondering about the diagnosis because I put over 50 miles on after getting the bad gas and started the bike several times with no problems.

Any insight would be helpful. I am going to pick up the bike tomorrow and I am planning on talking to the mechanic.

I've had "bad gas" before and the FJR always started.

 

[FJRONAMISSION]

This past week the FJR would not start. Turned over strong, but would not fire. Tried a couple of times over about a day and a half. Also tried starting with throttle slightly open. I have the Y.E.S warranty so I figured let the dealer mess with it. After three days at the dealer the final diagnosis was bad gas along with trouble code 22 which I was told had something to do with loose or disconnected wire with ABS. Of course this is not covered under Y.E.S and I now owe a little over $200. I am wondering about the diagnosis because I put over 50 miles on after getting the bad gas and started the bike several times with no problems.Any insight would be helpful. I am going to pick up the bike tomorrow and I am planning on talking to the mechanic.

I've had "bad gas" before and the FJR always started.

Some things ya keep ta ya self........ I've had "bad gas" before

B....

 

[RsvlFeej]

How long did the bike sit since you last ran it? (If over 3 weeks, sometimes you need WFO throttle to get a pop. Alternate is to power up the fuel rail multiple times by turning the key on and off and on)

Did you run it, but not let it warm all the way up before shutting it down? (If you don't get to two bars on the operating temps on Gen Is, the next start was always a roll of the dice - again, usually would fire w/ throttle WFO)

Did you wash it, then park it?

 

[4wlow]

I did try turning the key on and off. I did not try wide open throttle. I just opened it a little. It sat for maybe 4 days from the last time I rode it and I did not wash it.

Would bad gas alone keep it from firing.

 

[RsvlFeej]

I did try turning the key on and off. I did not try wide open throttle. I just opened it a little. It sat for maybe 4 days from the last time I rode it and I did not wash it.Would bad gas alone keep it from firing.

Did you leave the key on long enough to pressurize the fuel rail?

Never had a problem after 4 days of sitting.

Nah, you bumped your kill switch, but the dealer wanted to keep your bidness, so he fed you a line.

 

[madmike2]

Patrick is right. The first solution is to go WFO to see if it will start. There have been too many posts where that solution worked...it has something to do with the way the ECU reads the fuel needs if the bike has not been run up to operating temps on a start. More knowledgeable peole here can answer all of the "whys", it just happens.

 

[4wlow]

Kill switch was not the problem that was the first thing checked and rechecked. I think the dealer is feeding me a line though. Just looking for some info. to counter the bad gas diagnosis. I'm starting to think I was too quick to call the dealer and Y.E.S was a waste of my money.

 

[git-r-dan]

Kill switch was not the problem that was the first thing checked and rechecked. I think the dealer is feeding me a line though. Just looking for some info. to counter the bad gas diagnosis. I'm starting to think I was too quick to call the dealer and Y.E.S was a waste of my money.

Sorry to hear about your troubles but there are, I'm sure, plenty of us on the forum that are so thankful that we paid the xtra bucks for the warranty. Mine's been paid back twice over: glovebox replaced and recently, cam tensioner and still have a couple of years left. Just curious, did your problem get resolved?

 

[4wlow]

Picked up the FJR today. The dealer took $50 off the bill for the pick up fee. I am following up with where I got the gas and see what they have to say. I think it was more than just bad gas, but it was an easy diagnosis. I have a DR650 that I fueled at the same station a couple days later and I had no problems with it. So far the FJR ran fine on the way home although it never ran rough at all.

 

[madmike2]

Seriously, my bet is that it wasn't bad gas or your DR would have acted up. The dealer may have charged the battery, held the throttle WFO and started it. You're still paying for their shop time because they can't work for free. Though I'm puzzled about the disconnected ABS wire not falling under warranty unless you've been in there moving things.

Think of it this way, you've gained quite an education on what to do if it ever happens again. And you know to not start it up and turn in off. Let it warm up to operating temperature and the ECU to let the throttle come off of fast idle before shutting it off or you could suffer the same symptoms again.

 

[RsvlFeej]

Kill switch was not the problem that was the first thing checked and rechecked. I think the dealer is feeding me a line though. Just looking for some info. to counter the bad gas diagnosis. I'm starting to think I was too quick to call the dealer and Y.E.S was a waste of my money.

Glad the kill switch didn't catch you out. Some SOB did me a favor and flicked mine off while I was inside a store last year - Took me a few minutes to isolate the problem when I got out. Now my 3-yr-old thinks it's fun to flick 'cause it's the only control that doesn't automatically return to center when you release it. But I still get that "Aw, crap" feeling whenever the bike doesn't immediately turn over.

Agreed, probably not bad gas...

Y.E.S. has thus far bought me a cam chain tensioner fix, front fender, glove box, shock absorber, final drive seal, and one or two other goodies I'm too lazy to recall off the top of my head. $100/ year ($389 for 4 years) is CHEAP insurance and transferable should you sell the bike.