15 miles later and numbed right hand on my new bike

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For what it's worth, I've been through 3 plastic throttle rockers; they have all broken. I'm now looking for one made of metal.

And, you have the right attitude; try, adjust, try again. I'm confident you will tune the bike to your physical needs.

 
Check out BikeEffects.com for power outlets and lots of other good farkles!

The "1 turn spring release" and G2 throttle tube fixes would really help reduce the "force" required to maintain throttle position, thus allowing for more blood flow and a "looser grip". Worked for me!...But then I'm old and circulation challenged.

LC

 
For what it's worth, I've been through 3 plastic throttle rockers; they have all broken. I'm now looking for one made of metal.And, you have the right attitude; try, adjust, try again. I'm confident you will tune the bike to your physical needs.

Rode with mine for about 20 miles. Was always in the way. Stopped, took it off, put it in the glove box, returned it. Just another review on this product.

 
I haven't had my 08 very long, but am pretty sure you can't add a glovebox to the right side of the fairing because the battery resides in there!!

 
I'm up to 100 miles now. Actually the numbness is gone. Great suggestions here that I really took at heart. Thanks a lot to everyone here this forum is invaluable it is taking off time from my work hours! Regarding the numbness, my body is developing a good memory with the bike, I don't even have to think about it. That is why the correct position from the start is critical.

I'm going to the dealer at lunch time to adjust the handle bars to the back. This might help too. I also told them about the stalling issue. Yesterday on a tight turn I put it in first gear and riding the clutch when it stalled again. The bike is moving around 5mph max. It is dangerous I almost lowsided but was able to upright the bike before I stopped. I noticed as also mentioned somewhere in this forum that my idle is low: 900 rpm.

One more thing is the shifting between 2-3 gear is crunchy but I'll observe it up to 2000 mile. No big deal on that.

Now for the ride yesterday. I really opened it up and this bike is soo stable. The only problem I noticed is the on/off throttle that is an issue for me if I accelerate off a curve but that can be corrected when I practice in the parking lot.

 
Its not you its the clutch plates and buzzy bars.

I ignored the many replies I read about clunky shifting, I've had plenty of bikes and miles and know what a normal shift should be like. I took it under warranty to the dealer. They contacted Yamaha and were told to soak the clutch plates, problem solved it shifts silky smooth now.

Buzzy bars, I added the G2 throttle cam (loosens it actually) and grip puppies to help reduce buzz. Its still on the tight side to me and hard to be smooth but I'm getting used to it. I may have to do the throttle spring mod as it now has 18,000 miles and still too tight. All my other bikes shifted normal and I never thought about shifting, buzzy bars or tight/abrubt throttle response. Oh well its always something but I still really like my FJR.

Steve

 
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The only problem I noticed is the on/off throttle that is an issue for me if I accelerate off a curve but that can be corrected when I practice in the parking lot.
Can also be corrected with a Power Commander. The FI system is very lean at low throttle and has an abrubtness at closed throttle, probably for emissions. With a PCIII you remap the fuel spray settings and it completely changes the bike's behavior. The Wally Smoothness map referred to frequently in the forum is famous for fixing just what you described.

 
I also really like the Crampbuster on my 2008 and installed a throttle lock to allow me to set the throttle and move my right hand around to keep it loose. I dont death grip the throttle but do have a problem keeping any part of my body in the same position too long.

 
I'm up to 100 miles now. Actually the numbness is gone. Great suggestions here that I really took at heart. Thanks a lot to everyone here this forum is invaluable it is taking off time from my work hours! Regarding the numbness, my body is developing a good memory with the bike, I don't even have to think about it. That is why the correct position from the start is critical.I'm going to the dealer at lunch time to adjust the handle bars to the back. This might help too. I also told them about the stalling issue. Yyesterday on a tight turn I put it in first gear and riding the clutch when it stalled again. The bike is moving around 5mph max. It is dangerous I almost lowsided but was able to upright the bike before I stopped. I noticed as also mentioned somewhere in this forum that my idle is low: 900 rpm.

One more thing is the shifting between 2-3 gear is crunchy but I'll observe it up to 2000 mile. No big deal on that.

Now for the ride yesterday. I really opened it up and this bike is soo stable. The only problem I noticed is the The only problem I noticed is the on/off throttle that is an issue for me if I accelerate off a curve

A PCIII and G2 helps eliminate this!!

but that can be corrected when I practice in the parking lot.
Exactly, this is the scenario that resulted in 2/3 of my 10-15 tip-overs. (I lost count). It's fixed now (old style Power Commander, new ECU, G2, 1200 rpm idle, etc.). If you haven't done so, be sure to put sliders on ASAP!!! Might save you $$$$ for side fairings. However, be advised it costs well over $500 per hard bag!!!! Don't ask how I know!!! :blink: :dribble: :dribble: :dribble:

LC

 
I too experienced some of the issues you're having. One of my hand numbness issues was alieviated by loosening the velcro strap on my right glove. Too tight was putting pressure on the nerve. When I realized the bike(s) were only a contributing factor, I sought help from a snake charme ...err, I mean Chiropractor friend of mine. After a series of adjustments, no more hand numbness.

My Feej would stall when putting it in gear when new -and cold, after it had been sitting for a few days. The pressure plate springs were literally squeezing the oil out from between the plates. To solve this until the 1,000 mile point or so, when cold starting the bike, once you are ready to pull away, pull in the clutch and hold it without putting the bike in gear. This will allow oil to get in between the plates once again. Revving it a little to rattle the plates a little can't hurt. Once the plates are 'reoiled', putting it in gear shouldn't stall the motor. If it still does this after about 1K miles, take it back to the dealer.

I did both the G2 tube and the release of the return spring. And as another poster said here last year, "It's like riding a completely different bike".

YMMV,

 
Simple solutions, all free, that worked on my '07:

1. Unwind the throttle return spring on the throttle body shaft linkage one turn. Hard to find, but easy to do. It made all the difference in the world.

2. Balance the throttle bodies. THIS IS IMPORTANT.

3. Do the Barbarian Jumper Mod and adjust CO levels up by 7.

These three changes DRAMATICALLY improved throttle response and smoothed out engine operation. In doing so, shifting became much easier and cleaner.

All these mods are on the Forum. Or PM me and I'll get them to you.

The ultimate solution for the right wrist is cruise control. I use the MC Cruise.

 
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Madco
+1 on the Madco - Great product. I also have the Heli RiserPlate & Grip Puppies, and no more right-hand numbness.

Like WC said in post 12, part of my problem was the unintended death-grip used while breaking in the new ride.

 
I adjusted the handle bars yesterday towards the back and it makes a big diff on my wrist. I also ordered the G2 mod. That my help out with throttle control.

I also ordered Scorpio Alarm i500 SE (Perimeter/backup battery/ignition kill) for $270 shipped. I will install this as soon as possible. McAllen is 15 miles from Mexican border. If you know what I mean.

 
+1 on the Madco - Great product. I also have the Heli RiserPlate & Grip Puppies, and no more right-hand numbness.
Like WC said in post 12, part of my problem was the unintended death-grip used while breaking in the new ride.
Question regarding the Madco throttle lock. If I understand this correctly, it slips over the white plastic throttle tube after removing the grip. If so, when re-installing the grip, does the grip now have to be trimmed so it doesn't make contact with the bar end weight?

Thanks,

Geo

West Hills, CA

'08 FJR (with a friggin hand clutch)

 
I installed the Madco throttle lock, and no, you don't have to trim the grip. The kit comes with a nylon spacer, and an extra long allen bolt to re-install your bar ends. These spacers go on before the bar ends to effectively make your handlebers a little longer(app. 3/8") to allow for the room taken up by the throttle lock. For the price (about $100 shipped) these work on the same principal as the plastic Vista Cruise, but are much more integrated looking, and since they are aluminum, more durable IMHO.

 
And BTW, anybody here from McAllen, TX or know somebody from around the city? I love to meet a fellow FJR owner.
Corpus Christi area. If your ever up this way, holler. (it's sizzlin HOT in McAllen during the summer)

I have the throttle rocker and have pondered getting the one for the left side as I'm clutchless anyway.

:beach: git-r-dan

 
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