2 months into the new bike...

[Spook]

Hello everyone,I now have 2500 miles on my 08. Ridden it mostly to work but, have done a couple of 200+ mile excursions with my buddy down to Grafton Il and up the river road to Alton. Survived 1st oil change and gear oil change... whew. Put the sliders, Vista Cruise, and MagNite tank protector on and have WASHED it (keep the gay comments to yourselves, it's mine, it's clean) several times. The wife is getting use to the fact the dying on a bike beats the hell out of dying in a nursing home and has finally started to relax and enjoy the ride. I keep the bags off 99% of the time due to a tight squeeze in the garage, but like it either way. To you new guys who are either thinking about getting one or have just bought one, listen to what these guys say about everything to do with the FJR. All the tech advice, ergo advice, riding advice rings true with this bike. The transmission smooths out, the bike runs better, the oil, farkles... everything is as the wise ones say.

Now some observations...

I think the biggest thing that really bothers me about the bike, and this has been mentioned before, is the small numbers on the speedo. I'm guessing, and I apologize in advance to those of you younger than say 45 (i'm 52), that most of us are 50 or so, and we all know what happens to the eyes. I can see the numbers in the daylight (I wear contacts, but need glasses for reading) but at night the speedo is a blur. I am wondering if that would work as an excuse to avoid those "performance awards" you guys talk about. I would think a digital display for the speedo would be real nice.

I am surprised at how many different types of fasteners there are on this bike. I have a BMW 5 and I think there are only two types on connectors on the whole car.

Also surprising is the use of the cheap foam rubber on the inside of the body work. I don't see that lasting very long before the heat dries it out.

What engineering power house designed the wheels with valve stems that close to the frikkin' wheel spoke? And why aren't there 45 degree angled stems from the factory?

Ok, I'm done.

I am really enjoying the bike. It's everything I've read on here and more. You guys are all to be commended for having such a great resource that newrbies like myself can turn to for really good information and honest opinions. Thanks!

Only one problem you do not ride it enough 3 months and 7100 miles

 

[Spook]

I thought seriously about returning the bike Tuesday, but figured I'd really make some enemies. There are many things about the model that I do not understand and I think at least 60% of the problem may well be with me. The throttle response is very slow compared to what I normally ride. The engine may have a bunch of flywheel inertia to overcome with the counterbalancers and all. I'm hoping that the engine was designed to be that way and built for longevity verses acceleration. I assume that these issues have been around for a long time. I had read some posts on different forums about installing a throttle lock, modifying the throttle return spring, etc. I don't like messing with redesigning parts on a bike that has been around for years. This thing should be refined by now to the point where idiosyncrasies are gone. Adding larger bar weights at the ends of the grips would lower the vibration frequency to make the buzz less of a nuisance. Someone stated on a different post that they had done that and it made little if any difference. I spoke to an owner that I met in Austin, TX and he had changed his triple clamp to an aftermarket version that resulted in removing pressure from his hands on the grips since the bars moved rearward about an inch.
I don't want to come off as complaining either because I know that I do not know much at all about the bike. I have had many different bikes as well and am judging the FJR with those. Considering the features on the bike, ABS, shaft drive, electric windshield, hard bags, etc., the bike is a bargain when compared to other supersport bikes of the same size. I noticed that the front end squeaks when the front forks are compressed due to a bump in the road. Does anyone know the issue that is causing the squeak? It was doing it when I left the dealership.

Thanks for responding as I am trying to figure this whole thing out. I don't have warm fuzzies about the purchase at this point.

I would be willing the give you 2000 for such a crap bike. Not a penny more though since you have convinced me on how bad it is.

 

[just roy]

i can't feel any vibration in my bike, but it has a surge in first, second and third in the 3000-3300 rpm range and it doesn't rev when you blip the throttle for down shifts unless you pause for a split second.

 

[sradek]

Had eye surgery and the doctor put corrective lens inside my eyes. I can see the speedo now.

Corrective lenses "inside" your eyes dude ...

 

[SCRider]

I noticed that the front end squeaks when the front forks are compressed due to a bump in the road. Does anyone know the issue that is causing the squeak? It was doing it when I left the dealership.
Thanks for responding as I am trying to figure this whole thing out. I don't have warm fuzzies about the purchase at this point.

I don't know if this will help but when I picked up my '08 from D&H the mechanic (is it Nick or Nate?) said to not be surprised by hearing a noise when the front forks are compressed. He said he thinks the springs in the forks bend/bow out when compressed and come into contact with the inside/side of the forks adn make a noise. He said, nothign to worry about.

I have not noticed it on mine at all, yet.

The squeak from my front end was just the dry seals on the forks as they compressed. A little light oil on the shaft and a few compressions to work it into the seals and the squeak has been gone for 3 months now.

 

[Sagebrush]

What little vibration I had at cruise is gone now. The bike vibed heavy when I first got it over 6K in second. The bike got much better in the vibe department when wringing it out and playing. Foot peg vibes are much less after 4,000 miles, my feet don't buz much at 8K rpm now. At cruising speeds or 4,000 rpm my 07 is smooth with heavy bar end weights.

I wonder if some of the vibration reports are from engine luggers, trying to lug the bike up to speed in 4th or 5th with the rpm's under 3K...I know I could do that with my V twins and the V-4 Honda is very smooth at low revs.

The FJR is smooth to me or above average for any bike, its almost as smooth as the Honda ST's with the V-4...almost. My old ST1100 was the master of smooth engines, but it did have a bit of a light buz in the bars that I couldn't get rid of.... Its a nice surprise on how smooth my FJR is, I wasn't expecting vibe free hands with a strong 4 banger... :fan_1:

 

[Lee B.]

Hi,

earlier I posted that I planned to put a dot of paint on the speedo.

I've found that after 4000 miles I pretty much know the speedo. When the needle is at about 9 o'clock it is 70mph on the speedo and probably 5% less actually...like 67mph.

The speedo is like your non-digital watch that doesn't have numbers 1-12; think about positioning of the needle, where it is pointing (during the day light) and over time you'll learn what needle positions indicate speed.

 

[happyPuppy]

I have had mine a couple months and am the same age. The speedo is hard for me to read too. Eye doc says I have Astigmatism and sitting in front of a computer monitor for a long time has messed my eyes up for reading. I am going to get a referral to an MD that can give me the real low down and what I can do. Right now I have 3 sets I have to use Bifocals for computer and distance ( set to 14" or inches ) close in glasses for less than 14" and ones I like for driving that just correct distance. I am hoping with all the lasik, new contacts and all the rest I can get one solution. In the mean time I have A zumo 450 and read the speed off it.

 

[yamaholic]

Geez, if the only thing you find wrong with the FJR is ill placed valve stems (assuming your vision needs correction, which it sounds like yours does), that sounds a bit whiney to me. I have owned an FJR for 6 years and never thought twice about that. Get a right angled tire pressure guage and get over it.

 

[n1acguy]

Well, I guess the speedo would be a problem for me if I didn't wear progressive lenses. I just turned 51 so I'm on my 52nd lap around the sun. Things sure aren't getting easier to see.

It sure doesn't need to go to 170 or wherever it stops. Don't know how fast the bike will go, but things get really blurry for me above 110 or so :blink:

My bike has gotten smoother as I put miles on it, but it wasn't buzzy enough to concern me. I didn't do the synch at 600 miles and will wait until I need to get into it for another reason before I even bother checking it. I'm sure it was in synch when the engine was set up and it runs so good I doubt it's off. I don't get to ride that much in the summer, so I don't have 900 miles yet. Other bikes I've had got smoother as I put more miles on them too. Not unusual.

 

[mcatrophy]

... Right now I have 3 sets I have to use Bifocals for computer and distance ( set to 14" or inches ) close in glasses for less than 14" and ones I like for driving that just correct distance...

I've got 1 pair of varifocals. Copes with shortsightedness, astigmatism, old age (well, in the eye department :dribble: ). Only when within about 8 inches do I need further aid. No problems reading the speedo (so I've no excuse, officer).
My only other pair is my previous prescription which I carrry as a spare (I'd be effectively blind without specs).

 

[bay]

On the speedo issue...Has anyone heard of a Digital speedo that can be used on the FJR? I did a search and came up with nothing but a GPS. Ideally, it would be a piggy back plug in on the back of the stocker that had a nice big display that would mount on top of the analog speedo.

 

[spalkin]

Hey Wiz; I've got the same problem. Contacts for razor sharp vision, but I need readers at night. Doc says it's because at night your pupils are wider.

I made a set bifocals from clear glasses. Here's a link to the product. About $7 anywhere that has a pharmacy or a selection of readers. CLICK

sorry about the handheld, flashless shot

 

[sl_1300]

I use my gps for actual speed, it's closer to correct than the stock spedo. I'm currently on my first trip with the bike, Eureka Springs AR at the moment, and my main complaint is the seat. The seat is a little firm on a 400 mile day. Throttlemeister weights help with the vibes. And numb hands go away when you get used to the bike. My hands were numb for the first 100 miles of the trip and after than the numb hand prob has gone away.

 

[mophead]

I use my gps for actual speed, it's closer to correct than the stock spedo. I'm currently on my first trip with the bike, Eureka Springs AR at the moment, and my main complaint is the seat. The seat is a little firm on a 400 mile day. Throttlemeister weights help with the vibes. And numb hands go away when you get used to the bike. My hands were numb for the first 100 miles of the trip and after than the numb hand prob has gone away.

Make sure you catch Hwy 176 in SW Missouri and Hwy 123 in Arkansas. You won't need the throttle lock.

 

[gr8eyes]

For most of you 52 and younger the speedometer should be far enough away from you that it should be clear IF YOUR DISTANCE is corrected perfectly.

Its possible that some of you are slightly farsighted, which will exacerbate the near problem. If thats fixed the speedo should come in. As you get older the speedo will become out of focus. There are several great options for you if you're having problems

1 Progressive or no line bifocals work well because you can find any focal distance through the correct spot on the lens.

2 bifocal contact lenses with the bifocal part corrected at the speedometer distance.

3 monovision contacs where 1 eye is corrected at a distance and the other eye corrected for the speedometer.

Glenn

 

[Spook]

For most of you 52 and younger the speedometer should be far enough away from you that it should be clear IF YOUR DISTANCE is corrected perfectly.
Its possible that some of you are slightly farsighted, which will exacerbate the near problem. If thats fixed the speedo should come in. As you get older the speedo will become out of focus. There are several great options for you if you're having problems

1 Progressive or no line bifocals work well because you can find any focal distance through the correct spot on the lens.

2 bifocal contact lenses with the bifocal part corrected at the speedometer distance.

3 monovision contacs where 1 eye is corrected at a distance and the other eye corrected for the speedometer.

Glenn

wont option three screw up your depth perception?

 

[gr8eyes]

Spook, If both eyes are corrected perfectly your depth perception should be perfect. The farther away 1 eye is from perfect distance the more depth perception you will loose. At 52 if the near eye is corrected at 16 inches you won't have any depth perception. However if its corrected at 3 feet you would still have some depth perception but not 100%. For example: If a 52 yo male is plano (no correction) at a distance he would need a +2.00 up close to read at 16 inches. But, at 3 ft (speedo) he would only need +0.75 or +1.00. With both eyes open and 1 corrected with +0.75 he would still have some depth perception. But with +2.00 he wouldn't have any.

Glenn

Sorry for the ophthalmic dissertation.

 

[Cal24Master]

I thought seriously about returning the bike Tuesday, but figured I'd really make some enemies. There are many things about the model that I do not understand and I think at least 60% of the problem may well be with me. The throttle response is very slow compared to what I normally ride. The engine may have a bunch of flywheel inertia to overcome with the counterbalancers and all. I'm hoping that the engine was designed to be that way and built for longevity verses acceleration. I assume that these issues have been around for a long time. I had read some posts on different forums about installing a throttle lock, modifying the throttle return spring, etc. I don't like messing with redesigning parts on a bike that has been around for years. This thing should be refined by now to the point where idiosyncrasies are gone. Adding larger bar weights at the ends of the grips would lower the vibration frequency to make the buzz less of a nuisance. Someone stated on a different post that they had done that and it made little if any difference. I spoke to an owner that I met in Austin, TX and he had changed his triple clamp to an aftermarket version that resulted in removing pressure from his hands on the grips since the bars moved rearward about an inch.
I don't want to come off as complaining either because I know that I do not know much at all about the bike. I have had many different bikes as well and am judging the FJR with those. Considering the features on the bike, ABS, shaft drive, electric windshield, hard bags, etc., the bike is a bargain when compared to other supersport bikes of the same size. I noticed that the front end squeaks when the front forks are compressed due to a bump in the road. Does anyone know the issue that is causing the squeak? It was doing it when I left the dealership.

Thanks for responding as I am trying to figure this whole thing out. I don't have warm fuzzies about the purchase at this point.

The vibration you are talking about is most likely because the throttle bodies are out of sync. There have been quite a few bikes that come from the factory way out. This is one thing that the bike is proned to. I have found on both my Gen I and II bikes that it starts buzzing more when it needs the sync done. This is typically about the same as the valve adjustment, although I have done it sooner a couple of times. After you sync them, you are amazed at how smooth the bike has become. You can either live with it until the 600 mile service, or take it back and have them do it sooner.

There shouldn't be a squeek. It is normal to have a slight clunking noise if you sit on the bike with it shut off and compress the forks by hand. If it is truly a squeek, I would take it back right away.

 

[TheRepairMan]

[SIZE=10pt]Hey guys![/SIZE]

It's already been mentioned but look at this...

This is one of the screen shots from a Garmin Zumo 550. I'm pretty sure you can change the data being displayed around the speed reading by tapping the "More" button on the screen. I have been using just a basic Garmin Nuvi 200W and it has the same digital display when you want it.

They're an amazing tool.

-Roger-