2005 Spinning, not starting

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birkdale10

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Location
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I went off to get my brand new 2016 FJR and left the 2005 sitting in the garage. Last time I started it was Apr 20. Not that long ago, barely 2 months.

I decided today it needed to go for a spin. And that is all it does. Spin.

Good strong battery. Cranks fast. Spins and spins. No unfriendly lights are showing on the dash.

I made sure that the kill switch is in the correct position. I now have the battery on a trickle charger, because I HAVE spun it enough that it is not spinning as fast.

I read a suggestion to open the throttle full while spinning. Tried that. No start.

I tried (I know I shouldn't...but I did) some spray starter fluid that I sometimes use on my lawn mower. I got one good BANG, which scared me. I don't think I'll try that again.

Took out filter and tried. It's a K&N and it looks clean, but made no difference, filter in or out.

Any suggestions for how to get the old girl started? Barely 102 thousand miles, should have plenty to go!

 
Let it sit for a day, or pull the plugs out and clean em..then, with WFO throttle...hit the starter for five-ten seconds till she starts. Wfo before you hit the starter.

Put the battery on charge overnight as well.

 
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Search for 'fast starter syndrome' and you'll get a snoot-ful.

I like to pull the plugs and dry them.. . Add oil to each cylinder to increase compression.... then boom !

 
I went off to get my brand new 2016 FJR and left the 2005 sitting in the garage. Last time I started it was Apr 20. Not that long ago, barely 2 months.
I decided today it needed to go for a spin. And that is all it does. Spin.
Jealousy. Hell hath no fury like a scorned FJR.

 
BTW, starter won't engage with kill switch set to "death." You can't kill the battery trying to crank an engine with no ignition, unlike my father-in-law's Honda......

 
There are a couple of possibilities...... the engine is getting fuel, trying to start, but is getting too much fuel. This is usually what most of the discussion has been about. WOT as suggested by all above. One thing I would do is hook it up to a car battery so you know you're getting good juice to everything.

Another possibility is gummed up valve stems preventing the valve from closing. Maybe OK on a hot engine, not so good on cold one. This would be more likely on a bike used for commuting and using ethanol fuel. The only way to identify this possibility is by doing a compression test and finding a cylinder with little or none. It would give you an excuse to look at the plugs.

Bottom line is keep trying.

 
1. Battery on charger overnight.

2. Wide F Open throttle. (*F*ull?)

3. Crank crank crank Vroom die crank crank

Rpt 3.

Rpt 3.

Rpt 3.

Starts.

Runs. Idles. Shut off, starts.

Thanks for all the GOOD suggestions!

 
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When starting, make sure you let the enging come up to full operating temperature before you shut it down. Otherwise, you may have a repeat of your recent problem.
Listen to Ross. Never start up the bike and shut it down without allowing the engine to come up to full operating temperature and warm idle. If you follow this procedure, you will most likely never experience this problem again.

 
That start and cold shutoff was a Gen-II issue, not so much a problem for a 2005.

 
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2. Wide F Open throttle. (*F*ull?)
rofl.gif
 
I can't shake off the feeling that there ought to be a simple solution to this.

It appears that if we shut off the engine before it has time to warm up, any subsequent attempt to start will be met with the above symptoms, requiring the WFOT treatment.

What if we could 'fool' the ECU into thinking the engine has warmed up?

What would it take, a suitable resistor instead of the engine temperature sensor?

Any takers?...............

 
Trouble is, the ECU needs to over-fuel the cold engine in order to get it to start in the first place. During this initial cold running, the cylinder walls will be dripping with unburnt fuel.

Turn the cold engine off, that fuel will be left around the cylinder, and in the spark plugs.

Now try to start the engine, all that unburnt fuel probably shorts the spark to ground without enough air mixed in to ignite it.

Running WFO allows sufficient air through to eventually dry out the plugs, so allowing the spark to occur on the tip and ignite some air-fuel mixture.

Don't ask me why the FJR seems more prone to the issue than most other engines.

 
Somehow that just doesn't ring true (for me).

I can understand how the fuel dripping scenario sounds right just after you have shut the engine down, but weeks or even months later?...

As far as I can remember people have tried pulling the plugs, spinning the engine and then attempting to start and the problem remains.

I have come to believe that 'something' is logged in the ECU and it will continue to overfuel until the engine reaches operating temperature. YMMV

 
I didn't have that problem for a long time, years, and then one day, I did. Don't know why, don't really care. I just know that I will do what I can to avoid a short cold start and quick shut down.

 

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