2006 AE YCC-S Shift Warning When Warming Up

[hvrtaxi]

I recently took my beloved (and I mean that seriously) 2006 FJR on a 1400 mile MA-NH-VT-ME round trip to complete my break-in, with 12 buddies.* In the morning I would crank it up to get my two bars of warmness and on two occasions I got the Shift Warning light and the bike wouldn't shift at all. If I turned it off and back on everything was fine for a short while but the warning would return (while still parked). I'm an ***** and never wrote down the error that popped up. In a panic (this first happened in Bingham, ME where I had no idea if I could get service) I turned off the bike, turned it back on, and shifted before the error occurred again**. Things were totally fine the rest of that day. No problem at lights, etc. The next morning the same thing happened. On subsequent days I just started the bike, let it idle for less than a minute and then started cruising...and it hasn't happened since. I thought there might be some issue with the YCC holding the clutch in during a warmup and overheating when the bike was still in gear (I follow the manual directions that say leave the kill switch on and use the key to ensure that the bike will remain in gear when off).

I called my closest Yammie service and they told me not to expect any help within 1-1/2 weeks because of their workload. I've put a good chunk of miles on the beauty since this happened, without a repeat, but I'm curious if the 'well of experience' in this forum has any thoughts. I can probably provide my own answer by trying to repeat the error and will post the code if it happens again. Since I haven't been able to find a similar issue in the forum I'm assuming 'take it to a service location' is really the best option.

Sorry about the long post but writing about my feejer is therapuetic.

Regards,

-h

*The savvy are probably thinking 2006...break-in? What? I found my bike at a dealer in 2010 who had never sold it and bought it four years late with 51 miles on the odometer. As an aside, I was a little weirded out by the AE at first but it is now like crack. Also I had the only FJR (or Sport Tourer for that matter) on this trip and we tend to trade bikes around during the ride. I had to beat people off my bike. We had CBRs, metric cruisers, stormtroopers, sportsers, electra glides, etc. and every single person who rode the FJR said that if they had to buy a new bike it would be the FJR. :fans: After 14 years of cruisers I can't believe I am having a hard time resolving how much I love this bike. After riding all the bikes previously mentioned I couldn't wait to get back on mine. Sorry for getting sappy.

** On the previous day I was left behind so I could replace a missing rearview mirror nut (duh, read and ACT on the Bin 'O Facts) I was loathe to get left behind again so I gambled the shift error wouldn't occur while riding. There wasn't much traffic down east Maine so I wasn't totally :ermm: worried. Just logging trucks...

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

Check the idle speed it has to be less than 1500 for sure I like mine at 1000. It won't shift if it is to fast.

 

[hvrtaxi]

Check the idle speed it has to be less than 1500 for sure I like mine at 1000. It won't shift if it is to fast.

Barry - in my rambling post I didn't mention this was kickstand down and bike stopped. Essentially it was first thing in the morning just firing it up to warm it up. Now that I think about it I would have had to have it in neutral to prevent the ignition cut-off. Regardless, I'm pretty sure idle was at around 1K when this happened. While parked with the stand down the error code would pop up. When I would jump on to ride I couldn't shift to even get on the road.

Thanks for the reply. I will try to replicate to check my idle.

-h

 

[fjr183]

Get the code # and tell your dealer to call Yamaha's service rep.

If you get the ball started on that end, maybe your waranty will take care of it.

Keep this forum updated as to what' going on with this problem.

Fred

 

[cruppelt]

Check the idle speed it has to be less than 1500 for sure I like mine at 1000. It won't shift if it is to fast.

It's not just about too high with the AE - You also have to watch out not to have the idle too low. If you have it around 1000 right now, try to go up by 50 or so. I had this happen on mine, so far no repeats. Also, if you get it to shift right after you turn the key, the bike will behave fine until you turn it off again, no matter what. So knowing that you should be good to finish your trip.

Another known possible cause for a shift error is the oil level sensor input on the AE. You might try to see if it was parked level, and if the oil was all the way to the top in the oil level window. Depending on your individual bike you might have to keep it a touch fuller.

 

[majicmaker]

hvrtaxi, this is most interesting. Please keep us posted on what you find out.

And to your point about being weirded out at first about the AE feature, and now it's like CRACK!! Yeah, I can relate to that! AMEN BROTHER!! :yahoo:

 

[hvrtaxi]

I haven't been able to replicate the problem so I'm still in observe status. Several observations from the posts. I recently had to adjust idle up a bit because it was a little low, I was warming up on uneven ground, and I have since checked YCC oil level which was low. I'm now speculating the uneven terrain and low YCC clutch level might have combo'd to cause this.

If it reoccurs I'll note the code, check my service manual, and post the issue. Thanks for the responses.

 

[hvrtaxi]

Update:

During a recent morning commuute my problem occurred again. At the first stop I got a momentary error flicker and then steady. Error Sh_48. I returned home. Service manual said adjust idle or throttle body problem. I did a TBS and found the adjustment screws almost completely in. I backed out #3 a bit and resynced the carbs. I had a little more control over idle range and thought I was set...

First cold morning of the fall (50 deg) on startup idle was 1500-ish. At two bars of eng temp I started riding. At my first stop the error occurred again. The idle was definitely high when I was at a stop. I tried to lower the idle with the adjustment knob but was unable to get it lower. I rode for about 20 minutes and the next stop was fine. Engine temp now was in the mid-range. At the end of the day on startup idle was down at 800. I assume because I had made the adjustment earlier (?). No problems on the way home.

I really have a hard time thinking the TBs are bad and think it has something to do with TB adjustment, temp, and/or automatic temperature compensation. I plan on doing one more TB sync before I really start worrying. I've seen at least one post where an TB adjustment was mentioned as a method to help increase a low idle adjustment. I will post any further updates.

 

[dbx]

When I got my 2007 AE, the warm idle was set to 800 RPM. That seemed low, so I bumped it up to 1100. Within a few days, I was getting random SH-48 errors as I was rolling to a stop, forcing me to shut the engine down and restart. At that point it would run fine until it happened again. In my case, the fix was as simple as backing the idle down a bit. I aim for 1000 RPM now and haven't had the problem again since lowering the idle. That was about 11500 miles ago.

 

[hvrtaxi]

I think I'm at the end of my options. My service manual is pretty clear that if I hav SH_48 and can't lower the idle then I need to replace the throttle bodies. I just have a hard time believing an essentially new bike ~2000 miles would be a lemon. I guess stranger things have happened.

Here's a synopsis of what is now a common occurrence: Cold morning (45-55) startup, high idle at 1500rpm for 30-60 seconds. During high idle or just after it stops the rpms drop to 1300-ish and I get SH-48. The idle adjustment won't lower it. If I go ride and deal with the error by cycling the ignition I cant get to where I want to go. Later in the day on a cold startup (but usually higher ambient temps) the idle is down around 700-800. So I adjust it up to 1000 and go my merry way. The cycle repeats every morning and it's totally unacceptable to me. I've read a number of post on SH-48 on the forum and most involve TB replacement with good results. Unfortunately for me the bike is out of warranty. What seemed like such a great deal (getting a 2006 in 2010 with 51 miles on it) is turning out to be a kick in the nuts and it makes me wonder if this is why the dealership held onto it so long. Anyway I'm still open to ideas but will be investigating if it is within my realm to replace the TBs myself. I've got no budget for a $2000 service job on a $9000 bike.

 

[RadioHowie]

During high idle or just after it stops the rpms drop to 1300-ish and I get SH-48. The idle adjustment won't lower it. If I go ride and deal with the error by cycling the ignition I cant get to where I want to go. Later in the day on a cold startup (but usually higher ambient temps) the idle is down around 700-800.

This sounds to me like you're either trying to set your idle with the bike incompletely warmed up, or the fast-idle mechanism is sticking.

What makes me tend to think this is a 1300rpm idle "after it (high idle) stops" you write. How long is this after cold-start? You definitely should be waiting 5 minutes or so after starting before assuming the bike is warmed up enough to be considered "at operating temperature." If you start messing with the idle adjustment under the right-side frame spar, you're fighting against the fast-idle mechanism. When you write "later in the day...the idle is down around 700-800" I think that's a result of you tweaking the idle down earlier in the day when the bike was first warmed up and you're trying to defeat the fast-idle mechanism.

The ideal scenario for setting the idle is after the bike has been sitting, running, long enough for the fans to kick on. THAT'S normal operating temperature. THAT is the time to set the idle....no earlier. Minimum 2 bars temp gauge on a Gen I, 4 bars on the temp gauge on a Gen II.

Now, as to a fast-idle mechanism sticking, take a look HERE. I'd hardly expect that to be a problem with a low-mileage unit like yours, but you never know.

Taking a look at your new thread about replacing the throttle bodies, I'd certainly keep looking at correcting the current issue before throwing money, or new throttle bodies, at a low-mileage bike.

 

[ionbeam]

If I understand, your idle problem is when using the idle adjuster knob in the right side faring you can't get your idle speed to drop past a certain point when the engine is warm. Unless you have a very rare failure of the high idle circuit it is almost certain your throttle bodies are good. You need to check for vacuum leaks at the TB boots and make sure you haven't popped off one of the sync port rubber caps. If all this looks good then you need to re sync the throttle bodies.

It is almost certain that this problem is related to the throttle body sync. Either you or your dealer needs to re-do the sync. You note that cyl #3 adjuster was almost completely in and you adjusted it. The FSM tells you that #3 is the reference cylinder and should not be adjusted, and you then adjust all the other cylinders to #3. The engine needs to be fully warmed up when you do the sync and you need to adjust the idle as you perform the sync, trying to keep it around 1,000 to 1,100 RPM as you tweak the air bleed adjusters. You will probably need to turn the #3 adjuster back in a bit before you sync the other cylinders to #3.

There are a lot of different TBS procedures on this Forum. One of the procedures will tell you how to turn in all the idle bleed screws, back them out 1/2 to 1 turn then perform the TBS to recover from a totally blown TBS.

What are you using for a sync gauge?

 

[hvrtaxi]

During high idle or just after it stops the rpms drop to 1300-ish and I get SH-48. The idle adjustment won't lower it. If I go ride and deal with the error by cycling the ignition I cant get to where I want to go. Later in the day on a cold startup (but usually higher ambient temps) the idle is down around 700-800.

This sounds to me like you're either trying to set your idle with the bike incompletely warmed up, or the fast-idle mechanism is sticking.

What makes me tend to think this is a 1300rpm idle "after it (high idle) stops" you write. How long is this after cold-start? You definitely should be waiting 5 minutes or so after starting before assuming the bike is warmed up enough to be considered "at operating temperature." If you start messing with the idle adjustment under the right-side frame spar, you're fighting against the fast-idle mechanism. When you write "later in the day...the idle is down around 700-800" I think that's a result of you tweaking the idle down earlier in the day when the bike was first warmed up and you're trying to defeat the fast-idle mechanism.

The ideal scenario for setting the idle is after the bike has been sitting, running, long enough for the fans to kick on. THAT'S normal operating temperature. THAT is the time to set the idle....no earlier. Minimum 2 bars temp gauge on a Gen I, 4 bars on the temp gauge on a Gen II.

Now, as to a fast-idle mechanism sticking, take a look HERE. I'd hardly expect that to be a problem with a low-mileage unit like yours, but you never know.

Taking a look at your new thread about replacing the throttle bodies, I'd certainly keep looking at correcting the current issue before throwing money, or new throttle bodies, at a low-mileage bike.

Thanks for the reply. I am think I am guilty of trying to get the idle down prior to 4 bars of temp. I had been going with 2 bars. That said I started the bike this morning (45 degs) and let it run until the fan turned on (5+ mins). Same deal, it ran for 60 seconds or so before the idle lowered, but only to 1300. The SH_48 came on around the same time as the idle change. Temp was well in mid-range and I turned it off and adjusted idle down from 1300 to 1050-ish but it wouldn't go lower than 1000. I had read a few strings about the high idle so I'll keep that in my back pocket. I'll start from square one again and need to digest another post. Thanks for the feedback. Typically I'm my own worst enemy so hopefully this is no different.

 

[hvrtaxi]

If I understand, your idle problem is when using the idle adjuster knob in the right side faring you can't get your idle speed to drop past a certain point when the engine is warm. Unless you have a very rare failure of the high idle circuit it is almost certain your throttle bodies are good. You need to check for vacuum leaks at the TB boots and make sure you haven't popped off one of the sync port rubber caps. If all this looks good then you need to re sync the throttle bodies.

It is almost certain that this problem is related to the throttle body sync. Either you or your dealer needs to re-do the sync. You note that cyl #3 adjuster was almost completely in and you adjusted it. The FSM tells you that #3 is the reference cylinder and should not be adjusted, and you then adjust all the other cylinders to #3. The engine needs to be fully warmed up when you do the sync and you need to adjust the idle as you perform the sync, trying to keep it around 1,000 to 1,100 RPM as you tweak the air bleed adjusters. You will probably need to turn the #3 adjuster back in a bit before you sync the other cylinders to #3.

There are a lot of different TBS procedures on this Forum. One of the procedures will tell you how to turn in all the idle bleed screws, back them out 1/2 to 1 turn then perform the TBS to recover from a totally blown TBS.

What are you using for a sync gauge?

The new boots are in good shape and in place. I conducted my 600 mile sync IAW https://fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=21 using a Carbtune Pro with hose restrictors on the engine side. For my first sync I had to adjust #3 because I was bottoming out #2 trying to get it up to match #3. I've since adjusted #3 in a couple of different positions to see how it would affect my idle adjustment knob. I currently have it set 1/2 turn CCW from seated, which I think is about where it was originally. One thing I did miss (or can't recall) is if I verified idle after each adjustment. I guess it's time to do another TBS. I plan to go back and start from the beginning based on my possible errant cold-ish idle adjustments. If I still can't solve anything I will definitely talk to a service rep before seriously considering anything more challenging. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

 

[hvrtaxi]

Chrismas Update.

I decided to dedicate a chunk of time today to try and make some progess on my SH_48 issue. Essentially my plan was to ensure the bike was in a no-doubt warmed-up status and complete another TBS. Here's a recap:

Started up at ambient 32 degrees. On start idle was 1000 and crept to 1500 within a few seconds. Within a minute or two the SH-48 caution illuminated. The bike dropped to 1300ish after temps reached midrange, 5 minutes or so. I let it run until temps were mid + 2 bars with the radiator fans going. I turned it off to reset the error code. I restarted and idle went back to 1300-ish. Idle adjustment minimum was 1300. Even though I couldn't set 1000 for the TBS I decided to check a variety of #3 baseline settings. The #3 TB was already at essentially the 'factory' setting so I backed then all out and resync'd. Idle remained high and this didn't surprise me because a number of posts explaining the function of the carb air bypass also indicate an ability to increase max idle that way. I decided to explore the idle range using the adjustment knob even with the TBs sync'd at the higher idle. I was able to get a range of 1300-2100. Even though I had a TBS for the low bypass adjustment and higher bypass adjustment I decided to reset at the lower end (screws closest to seated position) to be reset to 'factory' settings. At this point the bike had been warmed and running for about 30 minutes. The radiator cooling did a nice job of keeping temps from mid range to mid +3ish. As I reset the #3 screw and then roughly the other three to get rid of the ugly idling the bike obviously went to a much lower idle. In fact it went to 700ish. I was able to adjust the idle knob to get 1000....making me almost smile. I resync'd and ensured the idle was adjusted after each screw adjustment.

I am 99% sure that my TBS and warm idle knob adjustments are now correct. The test will come tommorow when I do a cold start. If I get a reoccurence of SH-48 I will move on to investigate posts that mentioned a cold idle circuit issue or a vacuum leak. I'm no pro here but it seems that if my problem reoccurs tommorrow it is more likely a cold circuit issue. I'm not sure why a vacuum leak would go away after the bike has been running for 30 minutes...dissimilar material expansion? Anyway I will report any progress.

I still love the AE by they way...but it is about to turn in to tough love.

 

[dustyrains]

Run, don't walk to get the YES warranty. I purchased a used 2006 AE in 2008 and had a lot of problems with the YCCS. YES eventually paid for a new clutch actuator, plus all the diagnostic work that my shop put in before replacing it.