2006 died on freeway on way home from trip

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Call in sick and fix you fjr!
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I know, right? Where are my priorities?

 
Update (finally)

Bypassed the PC and no change, so I located the multi-function relay in the nose and removed it. There was a little corrosion on a few of the contacts, but nothing massive. Ordered a new relay jic, thinking it's 12 years old and it wasn't terribly expensive. New relay arrived. Cleaned the contacts and sprayed some CorrosionX on it and reinstalled the relay and no improvement.

Trying to figure out where to go next.

 
I can only say what I would do: Methodically test to see at what point in the circuit is the 12 volts not delivered. Do not discount the possibility of a conductor being discontinuous inside its insulation. I've had this happen (albeit in a British-manufactured MG).

 
Rich - although I certainly concur with your advice to our O/P, in the interest of fairness and context, if you have attempted to diagnose and repair electrical issues (ANYTHING with electrons) on a British motor vehicle made before the age of electronic ignition, and you are still here to discuss it, then I implore you to seek a lottery ticket and buy it immediately because you sir have quite a lucky streak! I dare state that surely your eyebrows must be permanently singed from your face, and I wouldn't be at all surprised if you have some sort of innate paranoia regarding the smell of burning rubber and/or plastics. Please continue to seek mental health counseling and I'm told that eventually, your sanity will return.

But you are lucky, none the less.

Sometimes you can learn the most intimate things about a person just from a simple post.
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Indeed. '69 BSA 650 Thunderbolt in and around 1971. No idea how many zenor diodes I went through on that thing. But the result was memorable night riding without lights using the light of two friends' Harleys to get where we were going. The best part of Lucas Electrics (with a nod to Murphy) was that they would go out at the worst possible times and far from home.

Following this thread hoping to see a resolution and wishing the OP luck. An FJR is not a BSA, thankfully.

 
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Rich - although I certainly concur with your advice to our O/P, in the interest of fairness and context, if you have attempted to diagnose and repair electrical issues (ANYTHING with electrons) on a British motor vehicle made before the age of electronic ignition, and you are still here to discuss it, then I implore you to seek a lottery ticket and buy it immediately because you sir have quite a lucky streak! I dare state that surely your eyebrows must be permanently singed from your face, and I wouldn't be at all surprised if you have some sort of innate paranoia regarding the smell of burning rubber and/or plastics. Please continue to seek mental health counseling and I'm told that eventually, your sanity will return.
But you are lucky, none the less.

Sometimes you can learn the most intimate things about a person just from a simple post.
smile.png
That MGB was a blessing in disguise, as a teaching platform on chasing down electrical problems - in the dark - in the rain
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And just to add to the curriculum I also owned, at the same time, a BSA 441
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As anyone can plainly see, electrical problems are not my strong suit. The theory makes all the sense in the world, but when I get down to it, it is an otherworldly education.

Working my way through the trouble shooting advice in the FSM. Learning how and which wires to test and for what. Not an education that I particularly want, but one that comes in handy from time to time. Be good if I didn't have to learn the same lesson over and over, though.

Really glad this didn't happen next June. That would certainly affect my otherwise rosy disposition.

Again, thanks everyone for all the help and great advice.

 
I finally scanned in the wiring diagram from the FSM, including the legend pages. Couldn't read the paper copy without a magnifying glass. I had to use 1200 dpi to wind up with something one could zoom in on and read, but this is much better.

 
Maybe one of the connectors to the fuel pump under the tank got tugged on too much previously and slowly separated and or burnt out. I would check how firmly each wire goes into each connector. Just a thought.

 
Okay, I'm back. I can hear the groans.

Have a good friend who is a magician with wiring. He came over today to see if he could help me make some sense of this and we have both conceded that it is probably the ECU. Wanted to run this by you all to see if there was anything else I might need to look at before taking that plunge. Not absolutely certain it is the ECU, but can't find anything else that makes sense.

I replaced the multi-function relay up front and it seems to be giving the same results as the old one. What is making us think it is the ECU is that there is a ground that is supposed to be happening that runs through it that isn't happening.

On the relay, the red wire to the red/blue wire is supposed to be a normally open circuit. It is. When the ignition is turned on, the relay closes the circuit like it is supposed to, but only giving .041V to the red/blue wire. 12V to the red wire, but not the red/blue when the ignition is on. No voltage to either when ignition is off.

It looks like according to the wiring diagram, that there is a coil inside the relay that is supposed to energize the fuel pump when ignition is turned on, but it isn't. I ;have the 12V to the coil, but the ground that would operate it seems to run through the ECU and it's not happening. The blue/yellow wire that runs from the out side of the coil/relay to the ECU has continuity. When cheking the blue/yellow wire for ground, it registers 76 ohms of resistance, but we can run a jumper ground to the blue/yellow wire and the relay operates as intended giving the red/blue wire 12V.

 
Remember the fuel pump relay is only energised for a second or so when the ignition is first turned on. Unless you have your meter connected as you turn it on, you won't get a useful indication. You are right that it is energised by the ECU grounding that blue/yellow wire, you expect to see 12V on it if the ignition is on and the relay is not energised.

The ECU is a very expensive item. If you know of another friendly FJR owner of an '06 or '07 FJR(A), swapping the ECU for a test is a relatively easy process (unless yours is a Canadian or European model with the immobiliser).

 
If, in fact, it turns out to be the ECU, I think it is the first failure I have heard about on the FJR. You might be able to get a used one cheap on Ebay to try. Good luck.

 
Thanks guys.

I actually found a new old stock ECU just over in Austin on EBAY. I was looking at one for $220 and sent a question to the seller. While I was waiting for an answer, I found another one just like it in Austin for $107. I thought it was the same place, but it wasn't. Went ahead and pulled the trigger. Should be here by Wednesday or Thursday.

It would be nice if this turns out to be the problem. I'd really like to take the Feej to Jacksonville for the Pizza Party. The more I ride this bike, the more I love it.

I have certainly received an education trying to work through this. I'm sure there will be more coming, but this has allowed me to check lots of things like the ground spiders which I didn't even know what they were until now. It has also presented the opportunity to fine tune and clean up some of my aftermarket installs.

I really appreciate all the help and patience and great ideas and advice you all have offered. Hope I can get to the point where I can be the kind of benefit to the list members that you all are.

Thanks again.

 
I hope it works out for you. I just can't imagine it being the ECU though. Of course, there is aways a first time. Keep us posted?

 
I have what is probably a really stupid question, but I looked all over for the answer so as not to expose my retardedness any more than I already have and couldn't find one.

The bike WILL run with all the tupperware off, right? I've never tried to start it with the plastic off and the FSM says the fault code will stay on the display until the bike runs and clears the code.

My ECU is supposed to arrive maybe by tomorrow and I want to be ready to find out if we are at the end of this road.

Sorry and thanks.

 

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