Aasland
Depleted
***SOLD SOLD SOLD***
This 2006 FJR1300A that I am selling has been around. It has slept in many places. It has learned many things. It has a few dings and scrapes. But consider that to be "hardening" of it's bits and peices. It is stone-cold reliable and will do nearly anything you want, no matter what you put in the tank, how cold or hot it is, and what sort of roads you traverse. Unlink another FJR I saw on Craigslist that claimed "no stories here", this machine has a few stories. You can't expect a well-ridden machine to not have anything to show for itself.
It has been rained on. It has been ridden through snow. Hail even, and dodged lightning boats. It has been down fire roads and virgin asphalt. Dodged potholes in Minnesota and lanes in California. From Badwater Basin to Colorado mountain passes. From 41F in Waldport, Oregon to 106F in Corvallis, a few hours apart.
How can I part with such a wonderfull machine? Well, I have another one to play with. I need to make room in the garage. I became a father last year and I don't get to go on long rides any more for a while. So ... someone else will have to ride her.
The bike itself has ~98k on it. The engine is from 2007 and has ~26k on it. Story is here:
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/156536-engine-swap-any-advice/
(TL;DR: 2nd gear cogs didn't engage. Easier to swap for a newer engine.)
It runs like new. It pulls hard in all gears. Except for one thing, it is mechanically perfect. It rides about like new. That "one thing" is that I re-installed the original rear shock which has 40k on it .. it doesn't ride too bad. My philosophy is that most farkles are done to a rider's specific tastes and would not be "value-add" for everything; it would be more optimal to sell those individually and then offer the FJR itself as a "blank slate" to which the next owner can add their own farkles. Therefore, consider that the rear shock probably needs a rebuild or a replacement. If you think it rides fine ... ok. Great.
I wouldn't hesitate to ride this to anywhere.
The tough part is figuring out the price. Part of it has 97k miles on it. The important parts have 25k miles on it. It's not cosmetically perfect, but it'll take you from A to B just as well (and you won't have to cry when you put that very first scratch in the paint....). So I'm going to start this at$5500 $4250.
Enough with the wordiness, here is the information in bullet form:
- 2007 engine with 26k miles on it.
- Original engine replaced at 95k because 2nd gear cogs slipping
- Easier and less expensive to replace engine than to open and fix transmission
- New engine has:
- Head pulled, valves lapped, carbon removed
- Head reinstalled, new head gasket, new head bolts
- Leakdown < 4%, compression test > 210 psi
- Valves adjusted (25k until the next one)
- New iridium tipped spark plugs
- Updated cam chain tensioner
- Cosmetic damage (scratches etc) from the accident that made the 2007 available
- Runs like new.
- New oil (mobil 1), filter, coolant, clutch fluid
- 2006 everything else, 97k miles on it (frame, plastic, etc)
- Everything is in great shape, but there is some swirling etc in the paint. 97k isn't invisible.
- Barbarian CO2 mod (smoother)
- Front fender is cracked ($140 to replace .. eh, it's cosmetic)
- Custom valved and sprung forks
- Valves installed by GP Suspension in Oregon
- Sprung/valved for 200 lbs rider
- New seals, bushings and fluid at 93k
- 40k on rear shock (could stand to be replaced/rebuilt)
- New tires front and back:
- Michelin Pilot Road 4.
- Splines lubed every oil change
- Angled metal valve stems
- New rear brake pads
- Front pads replaced at 72K, have partially worn older ones. All in good shape.
- Speed bleeders installed
- Last fluid change was @ 78k, could stand to be changed next winter.
- Diff fluid changed @ 93k with Penzoil synthetic stuff
- Throttle cable unwind (one rotation)
- Stock tension is way too strong and causes cramps.
- Stock exhaust and headers.
- It is soooo nice to be able to leave campground quietly
- Stock windshield (have more available)
- Spacers installed to angle it backwards
- Will include a cut down stock windshield. Ugly but good on hot days.
- Got a bunch of spare plastic screws too
- FZ1 mirrors
- Best of what's behind than any other bike I've been on
- Foam comfort grips
- Extra-heavy bar ends (vibration dampers)
- Bike has been down twice:
- 5 mph, right side, scratched stator cover, fairing (obvious) top box (more obvious)
- 0 mph, left side, in garage, just a tiny bit of damage to top box
- Includes sidecases and topcase
- Threadlocked them little screws
- Sidecase liners too!
- Re-wired glove box 12+volt outlet
- Always on (charge phone/comm gear at night, tender in winter)
- 30 amp wires and fuse (run tire/mattress inflator)
- Battery is two years old ... I think (can't find record of replacement)
- Fuse box under passenger seat
- Switched with ignition
- Easy to add more accessories
- Hyperlites brake light
- Blinks when brakes are applied for better conspicuity
- Can be disabled easily for DCTC/track use (or if your follower is annoyed)
- RealTime Industries reflective tape on rear of saddlebags
- All recalls performed
- Ignition switch
- Wiring harness
- ECU (altitude sickness)
- Factory service manual on CD
- Dual 138 db horns
Ok photos (like you haven't seen these machines before ... but I will point out the blemishes...)
See? Brand new tires. FZ1 mirros. GP suspension forks!
And proof that there isn't always snow on the ground in Minnesota.
I haven't cleaned the bike this well before, but there are still a few bugs on it. If I spent another two hours cleaning it to make it perfect, it would be undone the minute you ride it down the driveway. Stupid bugs.
Here you can see some of the damage to the topbox. That was the first and last time my wife rode it. In her defense, I did a lot more damage when I lowsided her Magna....
The other side of the topbox has some light marks from an antenna rubbing against (for you young whippersnappers, we had CB's before that newfangled bluetoothy stuff came along....)
The bags have RealTime Industries reflective tape on them for nighttime visibility. And you can see the Hyperlites under the license plate. I'm trying to figure out why I should obscure my license plate, but everyone can see when I ride...??
The cowl has some damage from the zipper on my 'stich. I think.
Crud gets between the seat and the tank. You could replace the cowl when it's yours .... if that's important to you.
Just a tiny bit of rash along the upper ridge of the fairing. Can't see if unless I point it out. Why did I point it out?
Also, note the holes in the dash (black plastic bits). Don't worry about them, I've got new plastic on the way. There is also a hole in the blue fairing, on the right, next to the frame, right above the wing. I had a heat-troller panel mount outlet there. I will get a plug if I can ever corral enough brain cells to remember to do so next time I'm at the hardware store. Damnit I was there twice today!
The dash. Some markings on the handlebars from the keys. Note dash holes. Um no speed holes. Yeah, speed holes!
UPDATE: New dash panels installed - no more holes!
Ok in Photobucket the photo is oriented correctly. Bear with me. This shows off the awesome GP suspension forks. But less flatteringly, note the front fender has a few cracks around the bolt hold. That's thanks to some Denali lights I hung there that put too much pressure on it. But the fender stays put. It this is a big deal for you, a new fender is about $150.
Other side. Same deal. BTW the bolt isn't the stock one; I only found one of them. I should install that one.
Stator cover. Note rash from wife's drop. The new engine was missing a stator cover, so I used the one from my 2006 engine.
Note that the stator cover bolt hole in the engine block suffered a little damage when the 2007 cover took the brunt of the slide. There is no leakage, the threads are on the outside, and there are enough threads left for it to grip the bolt (but I sure as hell didn't tighen it to spec).
The bike has clear title and no lien. All paperwork for engine swap filed with the state. You can test ride when you have paid me; I take cash or a registered check at your bank. I am not interested in trades. After your test ride, if you like it, we'll fill out the paperwork. Or I give you your money back if you haven't damaged the bike. I will not ship the bike or cash a $40,000 money order from Nigeria and give you the change. I will help you with transportation if you'd like to fly'n'buy.
So for now ..$5500 $4250 and the bike is located in Red Wing, MN.
This 2006 FJR1300A that I am selling has been around. It has slept in many places. It has learned many things. It has a few dings and scrapes. But consider that to be "hardening" of it's bits and peices. It is stone-cold reliable and will do nearly anything you want, no matter what you put in the tank, how cold or hot it is, and what sort of roads you traverse. Unlink another FJR I saw on Craigslist that claimed "no stories here", this machine has a few stories. You can't expect a well-ridden machine to not have anything to show for itself.
It has been rained on. It has been ridden through snow. Hail even, and dodged lightning boats. It has been down fire roads and virgin asphalt. Dodged potholes in Minnesota and lanes in California. From Badwater Basin to Colorado mountain passes. From 41F in Waldport, Oregon to 106F in Corvallis, a few hours apart.
How can I part with such a wonderfull machine? Well, I have another one to play with. I need to make room in the garage. I became a father last year and I don't get to go on long rides any more for a while. So ... someone else will have to ride her.
The bike itself has ~98k on it. The engine is from 2007 and has ~26k on it. Story is here:
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/156536-engine-swap-any-advice/
(TL;DR: 2nd gear cogs didn't engage. Easier to swap for a newer engine.)
It runs like new. It pulls hard in all gears. Except for one thing, it is mechanically perfect. It rides about like new. That "one thing" is that I re-installed the original rear shock which has 40k on it .. it doesn't ride too bad. My philosophy is that most farkles are done to a rider's specific tastes and would not be "value-add" for everything; it would be more optimal to sell those individually and then offer the FJR itself as a "blank slate" to which the next owner can add their own farkles. Therefore, consider that the rear shock probably needs a rebuild or a replacement. If you think it rides fine ... ok. Great.
I wouldn't hesitate to ride this to anywhere.
The tough part is figuring out the price. Part of it has 97k miles on it. The important parts have 25k miles on it. It's not cosmetically perfect, but it'll take you from A to B just as well (and you won't have to cry when you put that very first scratch in the paint....). So I'm going to start this at
Enough with the wordiness, here is the information in bullet form:
- 2007 engine with 26k miles on it.
- Original engine replaced at 95k because 2nd gear cogs slipping
- Easier and less expensive to replace engine than to open and fix transmission
- New engine has:
- Head pulled, valves lapped, carbon removed
- Head reinstalled, new head gasket, new head bolts
- Leakdown < 4%, compression test > 210 psi
- Valves adjusted (25k until the next one)
- New iridium tipped spark plugs
- Updated cam chain tensioner
- Cosmetic damage (scratches etc) from the accident that made the 2007 available
- Runs like new.
- New oil (mobil 1), filter, coolant, clutch fluid
- 2006 everything else, 97k miles on it (frame, plastic, etc)
- Everything is in great shape, but there is some swirling etc in the paint. 97k isn't invisible.
- Barbarian CO2 mod (smoother)
- Front fender is cracked ($140 to replace .. eh, it's cosmetic)
- Custom valved and sprung forks
- Valves installed by GP Suspension in Oregon
- Sprung/valved for 200 lbs rider
- New seals, bushings and fluid at 93k
- 40k on rear shock (could stand to be replaced/rebuilt)
- New tires front and back:
- Michelin Pilot Road 4.
- Splines lubed every oil change
- Angled metal valve stems
- New rear brake pads
- Front pads replaced at 72K, have partially worn older ones. All in good shape.
- Speed bleeders installed
- Last fluid change was @ 78k, could stand to be changed next winter.
- Diff fluid changed @ 93k with Penzoil synthetic stuff
- Throttle cable unwind (one rotation)
- Stock tension is way too strong and causes cramps.
- Stock exhaust and headers.
- It is soooo nice to be able to leave campground quietly
- Stock windshield (have more available)
- Spacers installed to angle it backwards
- Will include a cut down stock windshield. Ugly but good on hot days.
- Got a bunch of spare plastic screws too
- FZ1 mirrors
- Best of what's behind than any other bike I've been on
- Foam comfort grips
- Extra-heavy bar ends (vibration dampers)
- Bike has been down twice:
- 5 mph, right side, scratched stator cover, fairing (obvious) top box (more obvious)
- 0 mph, left side, in garage, just a tiny bit of damage to top box
- Includes sidecases and topcase
- Threadlocked them little screws
- Sidecase liners too!
- Re-wired glove box 12+volt outlet
- Always on (charge phone/comm gear at night, tender in winter)
- 30 amp wires and fuse (run tire/mattress inflator)
- Battery is two years old ... I think (can't find record of replacement)
- Fuse box under passenger seat
- Switched with ignition
- Easy to add more accessories
- Hyperlites brake light
- Blinks when brakes are applied for better conspicuity
- Can be disabled easily for DCTC/track use (or if your follower is annoyed)
- RealTime Industries reflective tape on rear of saddlebags
- All recalls performed
- Ignition switch
- Wiring harness
- ECU (altitude sickness)
- Factory service manual on CD
- Dual 138 db horns
Ok photos (like you haven't seen these machines before ... but I will point out the blemishes...)
See? Brand new tires. FZ1 mirros. GP suspension forks!
And proof that there isn't always snow on the ground in Minnesota.
I haven't cleaned the bike this well before, but there are still a few bugs on it. If I spent another two hours cleaning it to make it perfect, it would be undone the minute you ride it down the driveway. Stupid bugs.
Here you can see some of the damage to the topbox. That was the first and last time my wife rode it. In her defense, I did a lot more damage when I lowsided her Magna....
The other side of the topbox has some light marks from an antenna rubbing against (for you young whippersnappers, we had CB's before that newfangled bluetoothy stuff came along....)
The bags have RealTime Industries reflective tape on them for nighttime visibility. And you can see the Hyperlites under the license plate. I'm trying to figure out why I should obscure my license plate, but everyone can see when I ride...??
The cowl has some damage from the zipper on my 'stich. I think.
Crud gets between the seat and the tank. You could replace the cowl when it's yours .... if that's important to you.
Just a tiny bit of rash along the upper ridge of the fairing. Can't see if unless I point it out. Why did I point it out?
Also, note the holes in the dash (black plastic bits). Don't worry about them, I've got new plastic on the way. There is also a hole in the blue fairing, on the right, next to the frame, right above the wing. I had a heat-troller panel mount outlet there. I will get a plug if I can ever corral enough brain cells to remember to do so next time I'm at the hardware store. Damnit I was there twice today!
The dash. Some markings on the handlebars from the keys. Note dash holes. Um no speed holes. Yeah, speed holes!
UPDATE: New dash panels installed - no more holes!
Ok in Photobucket the photo is oriented correctly. Bear with me. This shows off the awesome GP suspension forks. But less flatteringly, note the front fender has a few cracks around the bolt hold. That's thanks to some Denali lights I hung there that put too much pressure on it. But the fender stays put. It this is a big deal for you, a new fender is about $150.
Other side. Same deal. BTW the bolt isn't the stock one; I only found one of them. I should install that one.
Stator cover. Note rash from wife's drop. The new engine was missing a stator cover, so I used the one from my 2006 engine.
Note that the stator cover bolt hole in the engine block suffered a little damage when the 2007 cover took the brunt of the slide. There is no leakage, the threads are on the outside, and there are enough threads left for it to grip the bolt (but I sure as hell didn't tighen it to spec).
The bike has clear title and no lien. All paperwork for engine swap filed with the state. You can test ride when you have paid me; I take cash or a registered check at your bank. I am not interested in trades. After your test ride, if you like it, we'll fill out the paperwork. Or I give you your money back if you haven't damaged the bike. I will not ship the bike or cash a $40,000 money order from Nigeria and give you the change. I will help you with transportation if you'd like to fly'n'buy.
So for now ..
Last edited by a moderator:
