2013 -- different oil filter?

[Old Guy]

The underlying question here is not what is the best aftermarket filter to use, or whether that practice is acceptable, but rather whether the new OEM filter is actually any different functionally other than the obvious change in length.
I do not know the answer to that, but considering that the oil pump (and the rest of the engine for that matter) is essentially the same as prior years it wouldn't make sense that they have changed the operating specs on the oil filter. The one possible exception would be if they had realized some shortcoming of the prior version, which doesn't anecdotally seem to be the case.

Good post. No matter what theories we come up with, it's just that -- a theory.

 

[Neil San Diego]

Obviously your call. Both filters are available. The specs (below) are very close except for the length. The 51358 would be just under 2 ounces less volume and presumably less filter area......

https://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p311/econes/wixComparo2_zps69accd7f.jpg

The other difference as noted in Old Guy's image, is the burst pressure (265 psi Gen III, 363 psi Gen II) and flow rate (8-10 GPM Gen III, 9-11 GPM Gen II). I doubt there's much functional difference there. Someone with some knowledge of that will have to say.

 

[LAF]

Obviously your call. Both filters are available. The specs (below) are very close except for the length. The 51358 would be just under 2 ounces less volume and presumably less filter area......

https://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p311/econes/wixComparo2_zps69accd7f.jpg

The other difference as noted in Old Guy's image, is the burst pressure (265 psi Gen III, 363 psi Gen II) and flow rate (8-10 GPM Gen III, 9-11 GPM Gen II). I doubt there's much functional difference there. Someone with some knowledge of that will have to say.

Looks to me it has just been cheapened in design. Bursting strength and flow rates are what matter, of course when the check valve opens would be another.

I would stay with a Gen II on a Gen III but hey just me.

 

[Fred W]

Obviously your call. Both filters are available. The specs (below) are very close except for the length. The 51358 would be just under 2 ounces less volume and presumably less filter area......

https://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p311/econes/wixComparo2_zps69accd7f.jpg

The other difference as noted in Old Guy's image, is the burst pressure (265 psi Gen III, 363 psi Gen II) and flow rate (8-10 GPM Gen III, 9-11 GPM Gen II). I doubt there's much functional difference there. Someone with some knowledge of that will have to say.

Looks to me it has just been cheapened in design. Bursting strength and flow rates are what matter, of course when the check valve opens would be another.

I would stay with a Gen II on a Gen III but hey just me.

The filters shown in the spec sheets linked to by Old Guy are Wix brand filters, not the Yamaha OEM filters.

They are likely not the same specs as OEM ones.

Also, FYI... Gen1 and Gen2 bikes call for the identical oil filter. 5JW-13440-00-00

 

[John d]

To me, they're all just automotive spin on filters, none made by Yamaha. If you like the Yamaha label, go for it, otherwise if it fits and doesn't leak, that's good enough for me. I like black, so I use the Bosch 3323 ($7.00 at Autozone), and replace at every oil change.

Worry less, ride more!

 

[Fred W]

There are a couple of features of an oil filter that you do want to try and emulate if you'll be using aftermarket ones. It should have the same anti-drain back flapper / check valve so you don't have low oil pressure at start-up and it should have approximately the same bypass valve threshold pressure so that if the filter medium were to ever become clogged it would maintain oil flow even if it didn't continue to filter it. Think very low temps and thick oil here.

For 99.9% of the time your filter will never become clogged up, but if it did get restricted and the bypass mechanism didn't work you could have big troubles due to oil starvation.

 

[SLK50]

Is there any concern about using automotive style oil filters intended for

use with high-pressure auto engine oil pumps on low-pressure systems

like the FJR's?

I'm specifically concerned about the bypass valve but it could also

apply to the filter medium, too.

 

[Fred W]

Spec for the oil filter bypass valve opening pressure (taken from FSM specs section):

1st gen : 11.15 - 16.72 psi

2nd gen: 11.4 - 17.1 psi

3rd gen: ???

Both of the Wix filters shown previously seem to fall into that range.

 

[SLK50]

Thanks. That's reassuring.

 

[RaYzerman19]

I have seen posts on other forums where OEM filters long and short were cut away....... to reveal the square area of the filter medium was the same, and in one case, the shorter filter had a touch more..... so we need one of you studs to cut open one of each and post up (I use aftermarket filters, NEVER a Fram).

 

[Old Guy]

I have seen posts on other forums where OEM filters long and short were cut away....... to reveal the square area of the filter medium was the same, and in one case, the shorter filter had a touch more..... so we need one of you studs to cut open one of each and post up (I use aftermarket filters, NEVER a Fram).

Well, now, if you've ever worked in a manufacturing environment, that makes perfect sense. The filter element would be assembled elsewhere and inserted in the can. But it would make no sense, from an economical standpoint, to make a separate element for every different can. It's quite likely that one length element would fit more than one can across a small range of lengths.

I've got the short Yamaha filter on my bike now. Based on my summer schedule, I'll put the long Yamaha filter on it in June. Then in late August or early September I'll remove the long one. If you'd like to volunteer to do that experiment, I'll send them both to you

 

[OldRider]

Honda did the same thing with their filters. A lot of the early Shadows and the 1500 Goldwing used a long filter. The newer Shadows, VTX's and the 1800 Goldwing used a short filter. About a year ago Honda stopped selling the long filter and uses the short filter on almost everything.

 

[iboldguy]

HEY - I'm the original old guy,

are you my Dad?

 

[Old Guy]

HEY - I'm the original old guy,

are you my Dad?

Without DNA, I'm not admitting to anything

Besides, I've never been to Canada.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

 

[Patriot]

ya'll mean it wasn't ok lately to use a toilet paper roll stuffed inside a niblets corn can...

uh oh...

 

[Patriot]

HEY - I'm the original old guy,

are you my Dad?

Without DNA, I'm not admitting to anything

Besides, I've never been to Canada.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

bwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa...my biggest laugh all day...thank you...

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Not changing the oil filter and adding new oil is like putting on dirty underware after taking a shower!

 

[Fred W]

Not changing the oil filter and adding new oil is like putting on dirty underware after taking a shower!

What if you don't wear any underwear?

Did you know that the Yamaha FJR engine takes 5.18 quarts of oil when completely dry?

And when you drain it for an oil change, even when replacing the oil filter it will only take 4.23 quarts of oil.

Guess where that other quart of oil is....

The filter holds less than 7 ounces of oil. That is pretty insignificant considering the 30 ounces left behind in the crankcases.

Now go change those skivvies.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Not changing the oil filter and adding new oil is like putting on dirty underware after taking a shower!

What if you don't wear any underwear?

Did you know that the Yamaha FJR engine takes 5.18 quarts of oil when completely dry?

And when you drain it for an oil change, even when replacing the oil filter it will only take 4.23 quarts of oil.

Guess where that other quart of oil is....

The filter holds less than 7 ounces of oil. That is pretty insignificant considering the 30 ounces left behind in the crankcases.

Now go change those skivvies.

Anybody ever had the pan off an FJR? If it's like the Honda ST1100, e.g., there's a cast baffle running across dividing the pan into 2 parts..... the half the drain plug is not in holds a ton of oil (so the oil pump doesn't go dry).......... you'll never get it out..... why worry. Ride on.

 

[RaYzerman19]

I have seen posts on other forums where OEM filters long and short were cut away....... to reveal the square area of the filter medium was the same, and in one case, the shorter filter had a touch more..... so we need one of you studs to cut open one of each and post up (I use aftermarket filters, NEVER a Fram).

Well, now, if you've ever worked in a manufacturing environment, that makes perfect sense. The filter element would be assembled elsewhere and inserted in the can. But it would make no sense, from an economical standpoint, to make a separate element for every different can. It's quite likely that one length element would fit more than one can across a small range of lengths.

I've got the short Yamaha filter on my bike now. Based on my summer schedule, I'll put the long Yamaha filter on it in June. Then in late August or early September I'll remove the long one. If you'd like to volunteer to do that experiment, I'll send them both to you

Just take a hack saw and cut the ends off, unfold the media and measure. From reading what others have done, they found the short and long filter media are physically different... the long takes pleated media wider, but not as long, the short has narrower media but longer (i.e., more dense), making the total square area about the same. Dunno with the FJR OEM.....