I just did the adjustment on my 2015ES. SOME OBSERVATIONS: the obsession video looks a whole lot easier than the job really is!. It is PITA from the beginning to the end. I started by purchasing the manometer gauge he uses in his video from the UK. Cost USD 106 to my door. Shipping time 10 days to my door. So far so good. The actual job: masking all the pertinent areas with blue masking tape: top of tank, front of tank, side fairing panels, etc. about one hour. Removal of stem mounted GPS system 20 minutes without scratching everything in the process. Removal of the (in my case) black tank plastic surround at the front seat. Described in the video as just clipped in at the front and easy to remove after removal of the plastic pins and the two screws. Hah, took around an hour to get those easy in the rubber grommet located tabs out! They are not lubricated and they have a hook at the front. So they are strictly one way. And there is no wiggle room without removing the side fairing. Lots of patience and time required. Lifting the tank, disconnecting and reconnecting the wires, removing the t-bar, bending the heat shield up, all pretty easy. BUT after you are all done, there is virtually No Room to do any work!! It took quite awhile to actually locate the adjustment screws and even longer to cut off an existing, wide and thin enough screw driver to serve as an adjustment tool. Someone already mentioned here that the screws now point almost straight back and slightly upwards. That is about the worst location possible because all sorts of wires and hoses run crisscross all around there. I mad several dry runs ( engine off and cold) to get the "feel" of the location, cause lateron when everything is hot under there you don't want to be groping around there. It'll bite you! NOW TO THE FUN PART: I now just took a small needle nose plier and just tore the little spring clips off. There is no decent way to get at them and remove them neatly for future use, unless you remove the entire tank. THEY COME OFF BENT ANYWAY. I than threw them into the trash. Then I pulled the rubber caps off and examined them. They look substantial. They are rugged and formed to hang onto the burled tubing end of the air tube. Why those silly spring clips. This is a vacuum connection. So If anything it sucks the rubber boot even tighter onto the tube. ( just in case I bought 10 rubber caps and 10 spring clips from the dealer, should I need any. Never did). The connection of the gage was straightforward and once connected, warmed up, the darn throttle bodies were perfectly within specs. I adjusted them a little back and forth, just to see if they in fact moved and they did. The reference TB in my case was clearly marked as the left or number one cylinder. I reassembled everything leaving off those silly spring clips, rerouted some accessory wiring, while I was in there. The hardest part of the re-assemble was the plastic tank surround at the seat. Got everything back together and went for a short 200 mile test run. Runs just like it did before!!!
Have fun
