2013 FJR 1300 synchronizing throttle bodies

[Fred W]

Unauthorized procedure ^^^^ above was put together by FredW.

--G

I keep a copy of the full version of the "Really Definitely Completely UnAuthorized TBS" post in my FJR Nerd's Repository.

(There is also a link to the N.R. in my sig line (click the little NERD!))

But alas, as Bungie points out, that procedure only applies to the 1st and 2nd Gen FJRs only. No linkage to adjust in the 3rd Gens.

 

[escapefjrtist]

TBS shouldn't be that difficult Wemi. Any pics of a GEN III with the tank up?

Unauthorized procedure ^^^^ above was put together by FredW.

--G

A couple of pics of the TB area (I was more interested in spiders when I took these, so not very instructive).

Thanks for the pics. Gives me an idea of what's ahead!
--G

 

[FJRbobliz]

Mission accomplished. Piece of cake... skinny 4" shank screwdriver works perfectly. 12" forceps great for pulling rubber covers off. Sure appreciate all the feedback and schematics... all very helpful! Thanks.

 

[lnewlf]

Unauthorized procedure ^^^^ above was put together by FredW.

--G

I keep a copy of the full version of the "Really Definitely Completely UnAuthorized TBS" post in my FJR Nerd's Repository.

(There is also a link to the N.R. in my sig line (click the little NERD!))

But alas, as Bungie points out, that procedure only applies to the 1st and 2nd Gen FJRs only. No linkage to adjust in the 3rd Gens.

So Fred, your RDCUATBS rundown is very good....however no mention of where the idle screw is set at the beginning of the procedure. [Gen ll ]...I ask because I managed to unscrew mine completely and would like a reference point to start at...

 

[Fred W]

Your best bet is to set the idle adjustment screw to the middle of it's range. Then when you open all four of the air bypass screws the same amount, 3/4 of a turn for example, see what your idle is. If it is still too low open all four to 1 full turn open. If the idle is too high close them all down to 1/2 turn open.

Then after balancing the four air screws make your final tweak for idle speed with teh idle adjust and you should still be close to mid range.

Hope that helps.

 

[lnewlf]

OK, that makes a lot of sense-tx Fred...

 

[Wemi]

I just did the adjustment on my 2015ES. SOME OBSERVATIONS: the obsession video looks a whole lot easier than the job really is!. It is PITA from the beginning to the end. I started by purchasing the manometer gauge he uses in his video from the UK. Cost USD 106 to my door. Shipping time 10 days to my door. So far so good. The actual job: masking all the pertinent areas with blue masking tape: top of tank, front of tank, side fairing panels, etc. about one hour. Removal of stem mounted GPS system 20 minutes without scratching everything in the process. Removal of the (in my case) black tank plastic surround at the front seat. Described in the video as just clipped in at the front and easy to remove after removal of the plastic pins and the two screws. Hah, took around an hour to get those easy in the rubber grommet located tabs out! They are not lubricated and they have a hook at the front. So they are strictly one way. And there is no wiggle room without removing the side fairing. Lots of patience and time required. Lifting the tank, disconnecting and reconnecting the wires, removing the t-bar, bending the heat shield up, all pretty easy. BUT after you are all done, there is virtually No Room to do any work!! It took quite awhile to actually locate the adjustment screws and even longer to cut off an existing, wide and thin enough screw driver to serve as an adjustment tool. Someone already mentioned here that the screws now point almost straight back and slightly upwards. That is about the worst location possible because all sorts of wires and hoses run crisscross all around there. I mad several dry runs ( engine off and cold) to get the "feel" of the location, cause lateron when everything is hot under there you don't want to be groping around there. It'll bite you! NOW TO THE FUN PART: I now just took a small needle nose plier and just tore the little spring clips off. There is no decent way to get at them and remove them neatly for future use, unless you remove the entire tank. THEY COME OFF BENT ANYWAY. I than threw them into the trash. Then I pulled the rubber caps off and examined them. They look substantial. They are rugged and formed to hang onto the burled tubing end of the air tube. Why those silly spring clips. This is a vacuum connection. So If anything it sucks the rubber boot even tighter onto the tube. ( just in case I bought 10 rubber caps and 10 spring clips from the dealer, should I need any. Never did). The connection of the gage was straightforward and once connected, warmed up, the darn throttle bodies were perfectly within specs. I adjusted them a little back and forth, just to see if they in fact moved and they did. The reference TB in my case was clearly marked as the left or number one cylinder. I reassembled everything leaving off those silly spring clips, rerouted some accessory wiring, while I was in there. The hardest part of the re-assemble was the plastic tank surround at the seat. Got everything back together and went for a short 200 mile test run. Runs just like it did before!!!
Have fun

OK, just got back from a 2000 mile weekend thru UT, NV, AZ and CA. So,I figured, since I left the little spring clips of the rubber caps, I go take another look at them and check the TBS at that time as well.First let me say that the second time around the getting into the adjustment area only took around 30 minutes with all the care and covering with rags, etc.. Some new and interesting things I learned: All the rubber caps were still on and actually pretty tight. So,I pulled them all off ( very easy, since I didn't have to worry about the clips). Since I knew exactly where the adjustment screw were and using the tool I had made (see above) the gauge was quickly hooked up and the engine started for warm up, once at temperature I observed the number two and three cylinder to be at the spec tolerance limit. Number four was fine. Both number two and number three had moved out of the previous adjustment. So I reset everything and took my time to do that. Now, the motor got quite warm in that time period and actually the fans cut in and out a few times. This did, however, not affect the adjustment ability of the screws as our you tube friend had warned. They worked just fine and easy. Once finished I threw the rubber caps into the trash, since I had plenty of new ones. See above. I found that slipping the spring clips onto the rubber caps about halfway from the top (easier than trying from the bottom or open part) BEFORE installing them and then pushing the whole assembly onto the vacuum tube works very neatly and you don't have to try to slip the spring clips onto the rubber cap after you install same. That's almost impossible. This way the clips just expand as you slip the whole assembly over the tube and contract once they clear the burled part of the tube. It'll cost around 25 bucks for 5 caps and clips (Murphy's law says you will loose one of each in the process) and IMHO well worth the investment of having new parts in there.

Happy trails..