2013 FJR - Replacing the Oil Filter

[rbentnail]

So all this talk of not reusing filters make me wonder.... doesn't the manual mention the fact that the filter can be used a second time ? I am sure there is a ton of info if I do a forum search.

Yup. Or to be more precise, it says to only remove the filer every 2nd oil change, which is exactly what I do, except I generally use a Purolator automotive filter instead of the Yamaha. There is absolutely no point in removing a filter if you'll be using it for a second oil change. Then when you do remove it you can mutilate that filter to your heart's content.

Yeah, MOM for my '07 says change the filter every other oil change. But I can buy the oil & filter combo for $6-8 less than just buying the oil. Go figure. So I change the filter every time. Makes me warm and fuzzy all over for no particular reason.

 

[AlleyCat]

Even when I was keeping the filter for a 2nd go, I always removed the filter just to dump the old oil out (that much less of the old stuff going around) and to make sure the darn thing wasn't welded on. Ever since I checked how tight I was torqueing my automobile lug nuts with a torque wrench (I was going way over just by feel), I use it to tighten the important stuff (oil filter, spark plugs, important bolts).

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, MOM for my '07 says change the filter every other oil change. But I can buy the oil & filter combo for $6-8 less than just buying the oil. Go figure. So I change the filter every time. Makes me warm and fuzzy all over for no particular reason.

Do tell... how the heck does that work out? If I could just break even on it financially, I'd certainly swap the filter out every time.

Even when I was keeping the filter for a 2nd go, I always removed the filter just to dump the old oil out (that much less of the old stuff going around) and to make sure the darn thing wasn't welded on.

The latter is a plausible argument, but honestly I have never had a filter stick on before even after 10k miles (my normal oil changes are at 5k and I skip the filter every other change.

But as to the former, as I've pointed out on here dozens of times before, those little oil filters hold less than a cup of oil in them. There is almost another entire quart of oil inside the engine that doesn't (can't) get drained during an oil change.

The dry engine holds a total of 5.18 US quarts of oil.

An oil change with filter replacement takes 4.23 quarts (difference of 30 ounces left behind in engine)

Oil change without filter change takes 4.02 quarts (difference of 6.7 oz in the filter)

You decide...

 

[creg-ny-baa]

Well, I stand edumacated. I read the manual when I got the bike, but I guess my on-board conventional wisdom never considered that you didn't change the filter every time. Also, I had no idea that the bike held onto 30 ounces. Live and lean.

 

[Bokerfork]

I just figured Yamaha had their head up their ass when they printed the manual. I change the filter every 4,000 and the oil every 8,000.

Why would I want to put clean oil through a dirty filter when I can just clean the old oil?

 

[rbentnail]

Yeah, MOM for my '07 says change the filter every other oil change. But I can buy the oil & filter combo for $6-8 less than just buying the oil. Go figure. So I change the filter every time. Makes me warm and fuzzy all over for no particular reason.

Do tell... how the heck does that work out? If I could just break even on it financially, I'd certainly swap the filter out every time.

5 qt jug of oil at normal price vs. same 5 qt jug of oil + Mobil1 M-110 filter with $10 off oil and filter for $4. AutoZone baby! Sometimes AdvanceAuto has the same special but I've never found what I want at O'Reillys. I just shop on-line for specials at stores local to me and see what they got. I can reserve my stuff at the store for free to be sure it's there when I go. If it's not in stock in the store they ship it free so I'll wait a couple days- they'll send an email when it's in.

Occasionally you can pick up an extra coupon on-line too. 2 weeks ago I got the oil/weight I wanted minus $10 with filter for $4 with a coupon for minus $4 for that filter.

It pays to shop around when I'm sitting on my dead arse drinking coffee yakking it up on a computer.

I also found the coolant I use (full concentrate, not 50/50 mix) $4 off w/ distilled (not purified, distilled) water for $.89 per gallon. 1 gallon of each is just a tad more than needed for 2 non-blowjob coolant changes.

 

[Fred W]

I just figured Yamaha had their head up their ass when they printed the manual. I change the filter every 4,000 and the oil every 8,000.
Why would I want to put clean oil through a dirty filter when I can just clean the old oil?

I like your thinking here... Definitely outside the box.

Don't be just another oil consumer. Be an oil refiner. Right there as you ride!

 

[900gc]

I just figured Yamaha had their head up their ass when they printed the manual. I change the filter every 4,000 and the oil every 8,000.
Why would I want to put clean oil through a dirty filter when I can just clean the old oil?

At 8k it's most probably still doing the job OK but I'm sure you realize that the additive packages break down so it's not just about the oil being clean.

Many report deteriorating shift quality near changing time (5K) so I'm curious if you have noticed much difference going out to 8k on the oil.

 

[Fred W]

I figured that he was just kidding...

 

[RaYzerman19]

There is a discrepancy between the '05 US Owner's Manual and the '06 service manual I have...... my '07 Owner's Manual is unavailable at the moment........

Owner's manual says oil change @ 4000 mi (7000 km) and filter every other time (seems OK to me if using dino oil)

Service manual says oil change @ 10000 km and filter every other time..........

 

[mcatrophy]

There is a discrepancy between the '05 US Owner's Manual and the '06 service manual I have...... my '07 Owner's Manual is unavailable at the moment........Owner's manual says oil change @ 4000 mi (7000 km) and filter every other time (seems OK to me if using dino oil)

Service manual says oil change @ 10000 km and filter every other time..........

I believe UK (and possibly other European areas) have always said 10000km or 6000 miles oil, twice that for the filter.

(Click on image for larger view)

2004 manual:



2010 UK manual:



Not going to argue the merits, just stating the facts.

 

[FJRMGM]

I just tighten it as hard as I can by hand after contact.
Done that on just about every bike I've ever had, never had an issue.

sounds like a good way to NOT be able to get the damned thing off the next time!

 

[Bogus]

I don't get the torque wrench obsession thith this particular application. The gasket on the filter is an O ring, not a flat gasket like on car filters assuming that you are using OEM filters. I just hand tighten the filter until you can feel the filters housing contact the engine case. The O ring should be compressed fully by then, and further tightening will do nothing but possible distore the filter canister. Since I have joined the forum I have seen this discussed before, but never seen this answer. Anybody else with me on this?

I think this is the first time anyone has ever quoted themselves, but I did it for emphasis. The filter will only tighten so far........it has an o-ring.........not a flat rubber gasket.........tightening more after the filter body contacts the engine gasket surface will not have any benefit...........other than possibly distorting the filter body at extreme torque. I still haven't got anyone else to agree with this theory! Come on guys! The weather is still shitty here and I need some kind of MC related stimulus!!

 

[HotRodZilla]

I don't get the torque wrench obsession thith this particular application. The gasket on the filter is an O ring, not a flat gasket like on car filters assuming that you are using OEM filters. I just hand tighten the filter until you can feel the filters housing contact the engine case. The O ring should be compressed fully by then, and further tightening will do nothing but possible distore the filter canister. Since I have joined the forum I have seen this discussed before, but never seen this answer. Anybody else with me on this?

I think this is the first time anyone has ever quoted themselves, but I did it for emphasis. The filter will only tighten so far........it has an o-ring.........not a flat rubber gasket.........tightening more after the filter body contacts the engine gasket surface will not have any benefit...........other than possibly distorting the filter body at extreme torque. I still haven't got anyone else to agree with this theory! Come on guys! The weather is still shitty here and I need some kind of MC related stimulus!!

Tighten until the gasket makes contact with the base, prolly the motor. Then turn it 1/4 to 1/2 turn and leave it alone. Never had a filter leak or be a PITA to remove using this method. Hand tight, don't use a wrench.

 

[creg-ny-baa]

Tighten until the gasket makes contact with the base, prolly the motor. Then turn it 1/4 to 1/2 turn and leave it alone. Never had a filter leak or be a PITA to remove using this method. Hand tight, don't use a wrench.

I can't help myself. I was going to opine that hand tight without "gorilla-ing" it should be okay, and try to work in some admonition to SoCal to exercise care, but...

I guess that in his case, "as tight as I can" is just fine.