2013 OEM Shock on 2006 -- Plus Ride-On

[harleystar]

In preparation for my annual cross-country adventure, I needed to do quite a bit of work on my 2006 FJR which included a new rear shock. After reading the specs on the new 2013 FJR and checking the prices of after-market and 2006 OEM replacement, I decided on the 2013 OEM as the way to go. I wanted the stiffer spring of the 2013 shock and from all my research, it should fit with no modification -- which it did (I did the install myself). As a bonus, it was cheaper than the 2006 OEM shock. To complete the suspension updates, I also changed the oil in the forks.

I must say that I do prefer the stiffer spring and the bike has never handled better. With all my camping gear loaded for my trip, I still left the shock on the 'soft' setting and never felt the need to change. Had my wife been along, the 'hard' setting probably would have performed well, but I will not know for sure until I try. Previous trips with my wife on the old shock were really sloppy due to the 'excess' weight.

One other modification of note was the changing of the front tire. I previously had a Shinko Verge 011 and for some reason, it had vibration problems related to geometry or tread pattern. Hands off cruising was not an option with the Shinko unless the thrill of a tank-slapper is your idea of fun. I replaced the front tire with a Michelin PR2 leaving the Shinko Verge 011 on the rear and the vibration and wobbles disappeared. If Shinko could get the geometry right, the 011's would be very good tires; traction and longevity are actually quite good. For reference, I mounted and balanced the tire myself. I also added Ride-On to the front and rear tires.

Here is where I'm a little perplexed. The bike is smooth as silk up to about 70 and then starts to go into a very odd front-end vibration cycle. I characterize the peak of the vibration as an out-of-balance wheel type. The vibration peaks to very annoying and subsides to nothing about every two seconds. Right at 85 MPH seems to be the most intense zone for the vibration cycle. Zooming up to over 100 MPH seems to smooth things out, but I have to admit I didn't hold that speed very long to completely characterize the problem (too many tickets the last two years have given me new respect for speed laws).

At one point, I thought it might be the windshield angle due to the obvious visual shaking of the shield during the vibration cycle. However, even when holding the windshield to dampen the vibration, it was still very apparent in the bars. Ultimately, I suspect the Ride-On and am contemplating removing the stuff. Any comments from some of the learned members of the forum will be most appreciated.

 

[FJRay]

There will be a lot of opinions but I have never had any luck with any of the internal balance methods. I have a couple wing customers that tried the Centramatics and took them off. A good balance job with good placement of weights is best IMHO. Look around and see how they do it at the race track. I think you will find removing the Ride-on and rebalancing will solve your issue.

 

[Chuck35]

I have ride on in both tires. I removed the weights when I added it. No vibration up to 100.

I had a "death wobble" at 120 and up with Yamaha touring windshield. Smooth with Rifle.

These tests were performed on a closed course. Don't try this at home. Some swelling may be noticed. If thoughts of suicide......

 

[HotRodZilla]

What are the chances your head nut is loose?? I'd check the torque on that thing before I did anything.

 

[harleystar]

What are the chances your head nut is loose?? I'd check the torque on that thing before I did anything.

Head nut? I didn't check the torque when I changed the fork oil, but it wouldn't hurt to look. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Warchild]

Here is where I'm a little perplexed. The bike is smooth as silk up to about 70 and then starts to go into a very odd front-end vibration cycle. I characterize the peak of the vibration as an out-of-balance wheel type. The vibration peaks to very annoying and subsides to nothing about every two seconds. Right at 85 MPH seems to be the most intense zone for the vibration cycle. Zooming up to over 100 MPH seems to smooth things out, but I have to admit I didn't hold that speed very long to completely characterize the problem (too many tickets the last two years have given me new respect for speed laws).

You will get a lot of different opinions on this stuff. I am firmly in the camp of don't use it. If you read what you wrote several times and think about how this stuff allegedly works, you might come to the conclusion that it is preferable to have your tires balanced properly when they are mounted, and then not worry about it after that.

 

[harleystar]

Here is where I'm a little perplexed. The bike is smooth as silk up to about 70 and then starts to go into a very odd front-end vibration cycle. I characterize the peak of the vibration as an out-of-balance wheel type. The vibration peaks to very annoying and subsides to nothing about every two seconds. Right at 85 MPH seems to be the most intense zone for the vibration cycle. Zooming up to over 100 MPH seems to smooth things out, but I have to admit I didn't hold that speed very long to completely characterize the problem (too many tickets the last two years have given me new respect for speed laws).

You will get a lot of different opinions on this stuff. I am firmly in the camp of don't use it. If you read what you wrote several times and think about how this stuff allegedly works, you might come to the conclusion that it is preferable to have your tires balanced properly when they are mounted, and then not worry about it after that.

To be perfectly clear, I mounted the tire and did a static balance before adding the Ride-On. In retrospect, I wish I had not added the Ride-On until exhaustively testing the ride. The problem may not be the Ride-On, but I won't know until I remove the stuff or find the cause. For typical riding, it's not that big of a problem. When riding across North Dakota on the Interstate averaging 85MPH, as I did while on my trip, it becomes quite tiresome. Another reason for adding the stuff was prompted by one of my fall trips; I awoke one morning to a flat tire due to a nail.

 

[art miller]

Interesting comments. I have been using ride-on in my rear tires for quite a while now and never had any issues with vibration or wobble. I Have picked up nails in the rear tire and no loss of air till I got home and changed tire. I have not used ride-on in the front fire. Most tire punctures (nails and screws) target the rear tire. The front tire hits the object and sets it up for the rear tire. I use dyna beads in front tires and have never had adverse issues. I do not like wheel weights. they look like crap and unless you use the adhesive ones they can come off.

Recently I put a new set of tire on my Toyota Highlander and instead of wheel weights I used ride-on. I had severe steering shake up to about 50mph and then shake when steering into curves and when braking. It was so annoying I had the damn stuff removed and went back to adhesive wheel weights. Problem solved!! Try removing the ride-on from the front tire, make sure the inside of the tire is completely dry and then use dyna beads and I think you will have solved the problem.

 

[Afast03nNJ]

Common sense says the only thing you should put inside your tires is a non-flammable compressed gas.

 

[RadioHowie]

.....even though "common sense" has absolutely, positively NO place on the FJR Forum!

 

[harleystar]

Interesting comments. I have been using ride-on in my rear tires for quite a while now and never had any issues with vibration or wobble. I Have picked up nails in the rear tire and no loss of air till I got home and changed tire. I have not used ride-on in the front fire. Most tire punctures (nails and screws) target the rear tire. The front tire hits the object and sets it up for the rear tire. I use dyna beads in front tires and have never had adverse issues. I do not like wheel weights. they look like crap and unless you use the adhesive ones they can come off.Recently I put a new set of tire on my Toyota Highlander and instead of wheel weights I used ride-on. I had severe steering shake up to about 50mph and then shake when steering into curves and when braking. It was so annoying I had the damn stuff removed and went back to adhesive wheel weights. Problem solved!! Try removing the ride-on from the front tire, make sure the inside of the tire is completely dry and then use dyna beads and I think you will have solved the problem.

Thanks for the suggestion. My front PR2 is about exhausted (currently 8K miles), so I'll know soon enough if it was the Ride-On. I'm a little gun-shy at this point about anything other than static wheel balancing, but I've never heard any bad comments about the beads; maybe I'll give them a try.

I have noticed one other oddity with the front end. When moderately braking (front brake of course), sometimes I get an obvious vibration through the handle bars passing through speeds of about 30 - 20 MPH. Everything has to be right for this to happen and recreating is a challenge. Maybe I need new brake pads.

FWIW, my rear 011 Shinko still looks pretty good after 9500 miles. Too bad the tread pattern, or whatever, seems to be incompatible with the FJR for 011 front tire. Of the three sets of Shinkos I've had on the FJR, the 005 on the front with an 011 on the rear was the best combination as far as Shinko is concerned. Unfortunately, the 005 was inclined to wobble a little bit as well. Too bad, they are really good tires otherwise.

 

[harleystar]

Update: the cyclical front-end vibration problem has gone away with new tires and no RideOn in the front. I checked torque on my head nut when I changed the tires and it was good, so that wasn't the problem. I don't know if it was the RideOn or the PR2 tire, but I didn't want to chance it being the RideOn and gooing up the new tire.

I replaced my Shinko 011 rear and PR2 front with a set of Shinko 05 Ravens. After looking at the tread pattern on the 05's, I decided to give those a try. I was leery of trying Shinko again due to the wobbly front-end problems I experienced with the Shinko 011s. It seems the tread pattern or something doesn't well with the FJR on the front. Fortunately, the ride is smooth all the way up to the upper limits of really expensive speeding tickets. Hands-free non-tank-slapping piloting is now possible using the throttle lock. There is still just a hint of front-end wobble when braking, but I can live with that.

I will say that I liked the PR2 in the front when it was new. However, it didn't take long for it to degrade on the sides/edges to the point that holding the FJR in turns required a lot of pressure. I live in North Georgia and tend to carve up the mountains a bit, so I can only assume that the PR2 is not a good tire for that type of riding on the heavy FJR.

 

[HotRodZilla]

FWIW, a lot of the FJR guys in your area are running a Roadsmart rear and a Pirelli Diablo front. They seem to love the combo for mileage and feel.

 

[Last Chance]

I've used Ride On in many of my tires, both front and back.. Never had a problem. It has performed advertised as far as punctures, I've had three (all rear wheels) which completely sealed after removing the nails. I always balance the tires when mounting them and add Ride On later... YRMV. I think my GPS indicated 137 mph one night on I-80 in NV, Probably due to "sun spots". I've exceeded the speed limit out in the desert, when no one appeared to be looking...But, not for very long