2013 Rear brake pedal movement?

[Fred W]

FSM says:

Metering valve
This valve prevents the brake fluid pressure that is transmitted to the right front brake caliper from increasing
until the pressure exceeds a set level. Only the rear brake caliper is operated when there is
an extremely low amount of brake pedal input.

There is supposed to be no pressure transmitted to the front slave until you exceed some amount. There may be some amount of intentional leakage through the Metering valve, not sure.

 

[rmcobb]

Got it! Thank you Fred and RossK and everyone.

So, today, I made a fairly big, for me, decision. I'm going to have the local Yamaha shop take care of Naomi. I have too many projects and only one lift. And limited time. So the Queen will be cared for by royalty. At least until the YES runs out...

BeemerD, Thank You for the good advice per PM. It worked out great... Naomi gets her YES inspection this Friday. I interviewed both the parts and the service guy today. It was a point-fucking-blank discussion and I'm comfortable enough to test the relationship for the 12k service.

Like all relationships, we will see where it goes.

Trust, but Verify, Yes?

Don,

If you're talking about SLO Motorsports, and Lance and Andy, I had them do a major service on mine a while back with no issues. Good guys, who from my experience do a conscientious job.

Randy

 

[HotRodZilla]

Although I think there may be some truth to Fred's assumption, I have two opinions: 1-all it is is an assumption, 2-Fred's over thinking it.

The air bubble would have to be in exactly the right spot to migrate from one line to the next. As I use speed bleeders, and just bled my brakes last weekend, it takes very little pressure to get fluid from the front. The cure for this, if there was a problem would be to open front and rear and bleed them simultaneously.

I doubt very seriously this problem exists 99% of the time. Carver, if I were you, I'd order Speed Bleeders. When they come in, set aside an hour to install them and bleed all the hydraulics. Do your clutch first. Then do your left front and right upper front. Move to the rear master and do your lower right front nipple and then your rear caliper nipple. My bet is you get good pressure and less movement.

Once the speed bleeders are installed, it takes about a half hour, maybe 45 minutes, to bleed the bike. Thats, tools out, work done and tools put away. It's stupid fast and easy. I use a syringe to empty the reservoirs and fill them with clean fluid before I start pumping anything. Clean fluid shows in one reservoir dump.

 

[art miller]

Although I think there may be some truth to Fred's assumption, I have two opinions: 1-all it is is an assumption, 2-Fred's over thinking it.
The air bubble would have to be in exactly the right spot to migrate from one line to the next. As I use speed bleeders, and just bled my brakes last weekend, it takes very little pressure to get fluid from the front. The cure for this, if there was a problem would be to open front and rear and bleed them simultaneously.

I doubt very seriously this problem exists 99% of the time. Carver, if I were you, I'd order Speed Bleeders. When they come in, set aside an hour to install them and bleed all the hydraulics. Do your clutch first. Then do your left front and right upper front. Move to the rear master and do your lower right front nipple and then your rear caliper nipple. My bet is you get good pressure and less movement.

Once the speed bleeders are installed, it takes about a half hour, maybe 45 minutes, to bleed the bike. Thats, tools out, work done and tools put away. It's stupid fast and easy. I use a syringe to empty the reservoirs and fill them with clean fluid before I start pumping anything. Clean fluid shows in one reservoir dump.

Great advise. When I had the 15K service done by Roseville Yamaha I had them install speed bleedes all around. My back brake lever travel (using hand) is just less than one inch. Same was done on prior FJR's and never a spongy brake issue.

 

[odot]

I think the "single finger" brake test needs to be put into the fjr hall of technical problem solving FAQ's.

 

[dcarver]

Thought I'd update the thread. Took Naomi to SLO Motorsports for the YES inspection. While there, Andy bled the right lower front and the pedal is golden again.

Following the Zilla's idea, will get some speed bleeders ordered too.

Thank you, one and all for the help!

 

[RossKean]

Good stuff! Glad you got it sorted. Now all you have to do is get the '06 working right again.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Always love a good ending, glad you have your rear brake back Don!

--G

 

[SkooterG]

Yeah, whatever. Even SLO Motorsports will never find all the boogers I put on that bike.

 

[SunRider]

The search function worked.

The symptom was a soft pedal in the first part of the stroke,

yet not so bad as the OP.

The fix was bleeding of the front circuit.

That diagram in post #36 is key to it making sense.

Bravo forum.

More data to contribute...

The pedal was firm for 2 years, then went soft. Noticed it at the start of a ride.

Last fluid swap was May '15.

Resevoir level was ok.

 

[DennisJ]

I bled the rear brake system on my '09 yesterday which also had excessive brake pedal travel. Speed Bleeders were installed shortly after purchase. Of course I bled the system starting with the rear caliper so I will need to bleed the system again properly. Rear caliper had a lot of air, required about half of a small container of brake fluid to get rid of all the bubbles. Front caliper took the rest of the container plus about half of a second container to get rid of the air bubbles. Pedal movement is a lot less than before but still more than I would like and the brake is not as firm as I would like. Helps to read the shop manual to refresh my memory.

 

[Joel S.]

I bled the rear brake system on my '09 yesterday which also had excessive brake pedal travel. Speed Bleeders were installed shortly after purchase. Of course I bled the system starting with the rear caliper so I will need to bleed the system again properly. Rear caliper had a lot of air, required about half of a small container of brake fluid to get rid of all the bubbles. Front caliper took the rest of the container plus about half of a second container to get rid of the air bubbles. Pedal movement is a lot less than before but still more than I would like and the brake is not as firm as I would like. Helps to read the shop manual to refresh my memory.

how did you get so much air into the system ??